Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Tbonem3]

Ball joints whose boots don't tear, garaged or good weather can go 200k, but that's not the standard an m3 owner would have I don't think.

Rubber's a whole diff story. Rtabs can be shot in 30k. The foam diff bushings seem to be pretty good to 100k+, but replacement will have major impression of improvement which is an important point - what standard will you pay for? Fresh bushings feel so good. Bearings are not bushings. No torn boot and no real slop that you can replicate, no need to replace imo but I did anyway tho I had about 140k at the time which is substantial enough.

[Slideways]

On a street driven car, how long could one expect the rear suspension inner/outer upper/lower bushings and ball joints to last? I'm at 85k, had a shop do the Turner adjustable lower arms (comes with new inner bushings) and the outer ball joints for those arms (Lems); the upper arm inners/outers were left alone and are original to the car. Now, my OCD is kicking in, and I just should have at least had the upper outers pressed in. But, the upper inners seem tricky, and labor intensive to do if they aren't worn. Symptoms to look out for? I don't want weak upper bushings prematurely wearing the new lowers, but maybe I'm ignorant of how the rear suspension geometry works with respect to "wearing" of these bushings/ball joints.

They tend to go well over 100k on a street driven car that is parked indoors. Many parts will last much longer if the car is not left out in the elements.

[jayjaya29]

I would expect them to last a very long time. The upper inner bushing is a very small rubber bushing so it would be hard for it to outright fail. The upper outer ball joint is also quite robust. I wouldn't lose sleep over it for a street driven car.

[PSUEng]

On a street driven car, how long could one expect the rear suspension inner/outer upper/lower bushings and ball joints to last? I'm at 85k, had a shop do the Turner adjustable lower arms (comes with new inner bushings) and the outer ball joints for those arms (Lems); the upper arm inners/outers were left alone and are original to the car. Now, my OCD is kicking in, and I just should have at least had the upper outers pressed in. But, the upper inners seem tricky, and labor intensive to do if they aren't worn. Symptoms to look out for? I don't want weak upper bushings prematurely wearing the new lowers, but maybe I'm ignorant of how the rear suspension geometry works with respect to "wearing" of these bushings/ball joints.

[jayjaya29]

I was puzzled when I installed a TCK setup on a friend's car many years ago. The only upside I could think of is that it will allow the spring to articulate a bit during the suspension travel. Sort of a cheap mans articulating spring perch that rogue and GC makes.

[Tbonem3]

Looks like they're 2.25" spec rather than 60mm. You can find thin metal or evenhard plastic "donuts" or shims that will have the same ID (like 2.25") but then a wider OD like 2.5" which might put your mind at ease. Truth be told, you don't need the entire flat surface of the spring to make contact in order for enough contact to be maintained. But it would feel better wouldn't it?

[Cubieman]

Edit, another question..

I am installing the TCK SA rear springs and the height adjusters are much smaller than flat area on the bottom of the springs, this seems odd.

There is a ton of slop, I know this should disappear when the vehicle is on the ground, but still, why not make them the size of the spring?

Also I bought some R.E articulating perches and they seem to seat even worse, especially is they are not centered perfectly. In addition, when the R.E perches are at their lowest setting the adjustment bolt is ~1mm from the axles.

I may use the adjusters from TCK as they can go lower but adjusting them looks like a pain as they are sitting down on control arm with very little access.

My BC's had the adjustment up top, that made things easier. Also they use both the lower and upper spring pads which the TCK's do not allow, somewhat disappointing.

[elrichmeister]

I bought Leatherique a while ago, but didn't use it when i should've during the summer. We had a mini heatwave this week and took the opportunity to use it the first time. Initially after using 2nd step the cleaner the seat still felt oily, but after 24 hours it feels normal. I have some side bolster wear on the driver side, but it seemed to have darkened the wear area, so its less visible. I may need to do another treatment as the leather still feels a bit hard. My rear seats are still very soft feeling and matte looking as they are hardly ever used. Are the front seats supposed to feel the same way? I didn't treat the rear seats only did the front.

[Cubieman]

What is the P/N for the actuator on the CSL snorkel?


EDIT: P/N: 11617511383

[bavarian3]

Saying you don't need rear o2s for smog is a lie unless you specifically explain how/why.

It's perfectly normal for solutions to exist without the end user understanding the depths of the underlying functionality. I'm here to tell folks solutions that are proven to work.

It's okay to be wrong.

[Tbonem3]

It forces readiness, yes. This was nothing more than the Martyn's tool settings.

People can believe me if they want or not. I'm not the only one with success using this.

I don't give two shits what you do, I only care about truth (for those reading/searching for help/knowledge). Saying you don't need rear o2s for smog is a lie unless you specifically explain how/why. You made no mention of forcing readiness - I had to bring that up.

No one's "big mad." No one cares about you.

[bavarian3]

EGT became irrelevant after a software update; it's not needed to pass (I turned mine off) Similar to EVAP.

But rear cat o2s are definitely needed for drive cycles - not sure how you could think they're not - what else is determining cat efficiency?

I would guess that your particular software got set as completed with your last tune. As soon as you disconnect the battery or clear a CEL, the drive cycles would get cleared. Or maybe your particular tune has forced the cat monitors to go green.

It forces readiness, yes. This was nothing more than the Martyn's tool settings.

People can believe me if they want or not. I'm not the only one with success using this.

[Tbonem3]

People get big mad at me for this but i pass smog just fine with rear o2's and egt deleted. They are not needed even for the drive cycle.

EGT became irrelevant after a software update; it's not needed to pass (I turned mine off) Similar to EVAP.

But rear cat o2s are definitely needed for drive cycles - not sure how you could think they're not - what else is determining cat efficiency?

I would guess that your particular software got set as completed with your last tune. As soon as you disconnect the battery or clear a CEL, the drive cycles would get cleared. Or maybe your particular tune has forced the cat monitors to go green.

[bavarian3]

No, no car needs rear o2s except to complete the emissions drivecycles for smog inspection.

FWIW, the SS HJS catted sect 1 does pass CA SMOG. I leave my rear o2s in and leave the pipes in, just swap the airbox.

People get big mad at me for this but i pass smog just fine with rear o2's and egt deleted. They are not needed even for the drive cycle.

[Tbonem3]

Both are perfect for the canyon roads out here