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Thank you. I had the 9640 in my cart. Any reason I wouldn't use that beyond that you need a special gun to properly use it?
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JB Weld Plastic Bonder 50139 works well for a CF/metal bond and is low cost.Originally posted by YoitsTmac View PostThe top connector for vacuum became separated from my Karbonius intake. Is there a recommended glue? Do I need to sand it?
Loctite 9460 Hysol Non Sag Epoxy Structural Adhesive is more professional stuff.
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That is an original pump as you can tell by the glue they put on the ring and pump from factory. 71k is nothing for these fuel pumps. They can go 100k plus if one is using good fuel, refilling on a regular basis and not constantly driving around with the tank on empty.Originally posted by bagger View PostI never looked at my fuel pump before, but was curious.
I'm going to guess based on the dirt it's original. Cleaned it up a bit more and it's a VDO with a blue top. Original most likely?
Also, if so, wait to get stranded or proactive replacement? Car is an 04 with 71k on it. I know there are a probably a billion threads on fuel pumps here that I can read based on the answer of replace or not.
Thanks.
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I would buy a fuel pump now if you're really motivated and keep on the shelf when you need it... probably a ton of life left in your pump.Originally posted by bagger View PostI never looked at my fuel pump before, but was curious.
I'm going to guess based on the dirt it's original. Cleaned it up a bit more and it's a VDO with a blue top. Original most likely?
Also, if so, wait to get stranded or proactive replacement? Car is an 04 with 71k on it. I know there are a probably a billion threads on fuel pumps here that I can read based on the answer of replace or not.
Thanks.
David
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Bumping this up - haven't addressed this in weeks since I haven't driven the car much. Any ideas?Originally posted by davidinnyc View PostSome new error codes yesterday. I hardly use the AC (drive with the windows down), but yesterday was especially hot and when I took one of the cars to pick up the kids from school in 95* temperatures, I tried to turn the AC on. Snowflake would illuminate and turn off immediately, and the air speed would be limited to 50%. Ambient air temperature reached 110*.
Plugged in the laptop and got these two codes:
24 Additional heater relay
Error frequency: 10
short circuit to batt+
Errorcode: 18010A2445C088510386
255 Energy saving mode active
Error frequency: 1
short circuit to ground
error present
Errorcode: FF42012489CF88510375
Anyone with a similar experience?
David
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The top connector for vacuum became separated from my Karbonius intake. Is there a recommended glue? Do I need to sand it?
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I have a fuel pump relay code, I can clear the code, run the fuel pump test via INPA and the code comes back everytime.
The vehicle is not showing any symptoms whatsoever of a bad fuel pump, it's fires everytime immediately, no hesitation. I have not tested fuel pressure.
I have read that it's possible a failing pump can draw more current on startup causing this code to appear.
I am thinking of trying a cheap used relay as new ones are $150. The prongs on the relay look fine, no signs of excessive heat etc.
What all should I be looking at/testing?
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I never looked at my fuel pump before, but was curious.
I'm going to guess based on the dirt it's original. Cleaned it up a bit more and it's a VDO with a blue top. Original most likely?
Also, if so, wait to get stranded or proactive replacement? Car is an 04 with 71k on it. I know there are a probably a billion threads on fuel pumps here that I can read based on the answer of replace or not.
Thanks.
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I'm in Minnetonka. Seen a few black E46 M3s around this side of town. If you get those headers & Sunbeam installed, I'll know it's you!Originally posted by Fitzy View Post
I’ll keep that in mind thanks 😂 hey I see you’re in Minneapolis too, maybe I’ll see you cruising around!
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Lots of build threads out there with pictures of E46 track cars. Just saying...Originally posted by Fitzy View Post
thanks. I guess not sure what will make my car look like a street car vs not unless they’re looking for something completely stripped. I’ll send in photos and see what he says. I didn’t think getting headers would be like purchasing a suppressor, damn.
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thanks. I guess not sure what will make my car look like a street car vs not unless they’re looking for something completely stripped. I’ll send in photos and see what he says. I didn’t think getting headers would be like purchasing a suppressor, damn.Originally posted by jayjaya29 View PostThey will cancel the sale if your car is still a street car. They don't want to get dinged by the EPA for selling emission-altering components that will be used on the street, regardless if you live in a state where your car doesnt need emissions checks.
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They will cancel the sale if your car is still a street car. They don't want to get dinged by the EPA for selling emission-altering components that will be used on the street, regardless if you live in a state where your car doesnt need emissions checks.Last edited by jayjaya29; 05-27-2026, 04:31 AM.
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I ordered CPI single step headers from Bimmerworld last night. My plan is to mate those with the Sunbeam section 1. I got a message from a Sr. Sales Rep that they must be a race application only and need pictures of the front, rear, and interior of my car before they’re sent out. What’s up with this? Can I just send regular photos and go on about my purchase? I’m in MN, my car doesn’t get inspected. Also who’s to say my plan isn’t to get a catted section 1?
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Thanks for this! I'll give it a run and see if this fixes it.Originally posted by karter16 View Post
Just had a check and confirmed:
- zero point adaption happens during the pre-drive check every time you start the car.
- 100% point adaption happens in the followup (period of time after the car is switched off after driving) if one of the following is true (virgin DME, EGAS/EDK adaptions cleared).
So yes - clear the EGAS/EDK adaptions and it should happen next time you turn the car off. (it can also be triggered over DS2, but clearing adaptions seems like an easier solution)
Also fwiw if you have an OBD2 cable you can use MSS54 DS2 Tool to both clear the adaptions and read the live values the DME is receiving from the pedal.
DS2 must be a newer one, I've never heard of it. My E46 M has been relatively trouble free Atleast for smaller issues like this. She's a track only car at this point so it's a pain in the butt to diagnose smaller issues like this.
I do have it registered, just driving a no ac gutted interior car isn't so appealing when I don't have to
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