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  • davidinnyc
    replied
    So - I installed CSL headers and CSL Section 2, but because I wanted to figure out how to extend O2 sensors instead of cutting up the sensor wiring in the harness I left US Section 1 with the resonator.

    My dumb question: if I put on the CSL section 1 and don’t plug in O2 and EGT sensors to the DME, will the cats get damaged? I thought I’d be ok running catless for a while but the smell is awful.

    I plan to plug in the O2 and EGT sensors into their respective Section 1 bungs and just keep them tied up for now, but wanted to see if I’d cause any harm to the cats.

    Thanks in advance.
    Last edited by davidinnyc; 04-19-2025, 03:50 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • PSUEng
    replied
    Originally posted by IamFODI View Post
    Is it on the key itself? Mine is. (can't get a pic now unfortunately)
    It sure is, I should have looked closer! Thank you.

    Leave a comment:


  • IamFODI
    replied
    Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
    How do I determine the "code" to my factory wheel lock? I want to order a spare key.
    Is it on the key itself? Mine is. (can't get a pic now unfortunately)

    Leave a comment:


  • PSUEng
    replied
    How do I determine the "code" to my factory wheel lock? I want to order a spare key.

    Leave a comment:


  • fattycharged
    replied
    I shouldn’t try and help 😂

    Leave a comment:


  • sc1337
    replied
    Hello everyone! I’m trying to post on the marketplace, but I can’t because I’m a (new) member I’m guessing. My question is how long before I can buy and post WTB?
    I couldn’t find information on the wait period. I’m not totally new ig since I was a member on the defunct M3 forum.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nate047
    replied
    Originally posted by karter16 View Post

    Which ones aren't aligned? Is it the 4 RACP points or the RSM points? I’d definitely wait till the car is on the ground and loaded to work out what needs to be adjusted
    I do need to check it again with everything in place, but it was the rear two holes. There was also a problem with the front two but I can't remember exactly what it was.

    Leave a comment:


  • karter16
    replied
    Originally posted by Nate047 View Post

    Mannnnn. The spacers are wrong, the holes are wrong, gotta love it.

    I'm going to have to over drill the holes a little I think. I can't just force it over the threads on those bolts.
    Which ones aren't aligned? Is it the 4 RACP points or the RSM points? I’d definitely wait till the car is on the ground and loaded to work out what needs to be adjusted

    Leave a comment:


  • Nate047
    replied
    Originally posted by karter16 View Post

    I don't have any photos of the spacers I received but basically exactly the same thing but thinner (same thickness as the hex).

    Re fitment - mine was absolutely perfect. Did a check with the car in the air (without removing the nuts on the RSMs) and it seemed fine and then installed for real on the ground - dropped straight in. I have heard of others needing to apply some leverage to get fitment (rear strut bars in general, not Yurkan specifically) so maybe depends a bit on individual chassis and whether it's moved at all over time?

    I think you’ll love it once you’re done - I couldn’t believe the amount of difference it made to my car.
    Mannnnn. The spacers are wrong, the holes are wrong, gotta love it.

    I’m going to have to over drill the holes a little I think. I can’t just force it over the threads on those bolts.

    Leave a comment:


  • karter16
    replied
    Originally posted by Nate047 View Post
    Also I should clarify something, I don't actually have the brace installed and working yet. I have cut the studs though. I'm
    actually curious if you guys had any fitment problems? I tried mocking it up on the car when the car is on quick jacks and the studs do not line up with the holes. I'm wondering if they will when the car is on the ground… 🤔
    I don't have any photos of the spacers I received but basically exactly the same thing but thinner (same thickness as the hex).

    Re fitment - mine was absolutely perfect. Did a check with the car in the air (without removing the nuts on the RSMs) and it seemed fine and then installed for real on the ground - dropped straight in. I have heard of others needing to apply some leverage to get fitment (rear strut bars in general, not Yurkan specifically) so maybe depends a bit on individual chassis and whether it's moved at all over time?

    I think you’ll love it once you’re done - I couldn’t believe the amount of difference it made to my car.
    Last edited by karter16; 04-13-2025, 03:27 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nate047
    replied
    Also I should clarify something, I don’t actually have the brace installed and working yet. I have cut the studs though. I’m
    actually curious if you guys had any fitment problems? I tried mocking it up on the car when the car is on quick jacks and the studs do not line up with the holes. I’m wondering if they will when the car is on the ground… 🤔

    Leave a comment:


  • Nate047
    replied
    Interesting indeed, I bought mine I think early 2023? Here’s a couple pictures:

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  • karter16
    replied
    Originally posted by Nate047 View Post

    Which brace do you have? I have a Yurkan Cages 6-point brace. Funny though the spacers he gave me are thicker than the hex washer on the OEM bolts. So I'm using the stock bolts and I cut myself a stud using an old stock bolt, and thread them in from the top. I wasn't comfortable running a thicker spacer because of the solid aluminum CMP mounts I'm running. Dunno how much impact a few mm would have but I figured better safe than sorry(?)
    Interesting! I have the Yurkan 6 point as well and the spacers are the same thickness as the hex studs. When did you buy yours? Maybe he's changed the size of them? I bought mine April 2024.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • fattycharged
    replied
    Originally posted by Nate047 View Post

    Which brace do you have? I have a Yurkan Cages 6-point brace. Funny though the spacers he gave me are thicker than the hex washer on the OEM bolts. So I'm using the stock bolts and I cut myself a stud using an old stock bolt, and thread them in from the top. I wasn't comfortable running a thicker spacer because of the solid aluminum CMP mounts I'm running. Dunno how much impact a few mm would have but I figured better safe than sorry(?)
    I did the same thing, have yet to drive it, but used stock bolts from the rear to cut and add to topside front.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • Nate047
    replied
    Originally posted by karter16 View Post

    Similar reason - partway had everything back together before realising I hadn't put the spacers in in place of the hex studs (RACP brace install with through bolts in place of the studs) 🙃


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Which brace do you have? I have a Yurkan Cages 6-point brace. Funny though the spacers he gave me are thicker than the hex washer on the OEM bolts. So I’m using the stock bolts and I cut myself a stud using an old stock bolt, and thread them in from the top. I wasn’t comfortable running a thicker spacer because of the solid aluminum CMP mounts I’m running. Dunno how much impact a few mm would have but I figured better safe than sorry(?)

    Leave a comment:

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