For a track only car, smg to manual swap (ZF 5Spd)
Instead of properly wiring in the clutch switch, is there anything harmful being done by decoding the “Engine Start only in park or neutral gear”? From the EWS
This allows the engine to start without wiring the switch. I don't have a need for cruise control, but am I potentially missing on other requirements by side stepping the wiring?
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Originally posted by Keith_MN View PostBumper mounting drama.
2004 M3. Front bumper was a little misaligned so I took it off to re-fit. Discovered the four mounting studs (part #17) that screw into the carbon crash bar were missing. Odd?
Ordered those. Installed them with the spacers on the middle two, no spacers on the outer two.
Bumper goes on, fits well, but will not click into any of the four studs with any reasonable amount of force. I feel like I'm going to start doing damage if I press harder.
I lightly sanded them to take off the very slight edges from production, gave them some light grease. Still no go.
Grease marks on the bumper sockets line up enough that some of them should go, but no.
Tried to press the stud into the bumper socket on it's own and it won't go.
Anyone else experience this? Is the culprit just the 20yo rubber not flexing at all?
Thinking about taking ~1mm off the studs so they slip in easier. As is, they are 15mm OD on the studs and 12.5mm id for the receiving socket.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/de/showp...diagId=51_4734
Edit: I see this is not a replacement bumper, still check it out.
I ordered a genuine euro M3 front bumper through dealer part# 51117894989 for Kevlar support bar It came in and I got it painted then tried to install it only to see these 4 tabs on the backside interfering with the Kevlar bumper support. After some searching, those 4 tabs originally came in the aluminum carrier bumper to
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Originally posted by Avedis View Post
I don't know this for a fact, but it may point you in the right direction. I believe that these are made to be fairly modular. The base of it seems to act like a modular cage so you can add and remove switches/buttons. The face plate comes off the front which allows access to the switches.
My gut feeling is that you can do this:
buy a switch panel that has 3 buttons on it. LINK
remove/steal the face plate from that one
remove the face plate from your factory one. remove the switches you don't want (LINK showing the guts)
re-arrange buttons to your liking
install face plate from the second switch panel you purchased LINK
code??
Maybe someone else can chime in on this.Last edited by M3LSB.Gab; 03-07-2025, 05:10 AM.
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Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
The late style switch center is still (sorta) modular: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...087#post246087
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Originally posted by karter16 View Post
My understanding is that this was the case in earlier manufacturing years (you can actually see on early model cars that the panel face plate is segmented to allow additions/removals. BMW then changed to have different part numbers for each combination of buttons with a single faceplate. Subsequently I believe they discontinued these and if you buy one today it has all the buttons and you have to put blanking caps over the buttons that don't apply.
If you have a latter year car I believe the only option is to find a second hand module in the exact configuration you're after. If OP has earlier model year and thy can source the switches they need they will be able to do as you say.
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Originally posted by Avedis View Post
I don't know this for a fact, but it may point you in the right direction. I believe that these are made to be fairly modular. The base of it seems to act like a modular cage so you can add and remove switches/buttons. The face plate comes off the front which allows access to the switches.
My gut feeling is that you can do this:
buy a switch panel that has 3 buttons on it. LINK
remove/steal the face plate from that one
remove the face plate from your factory one. remove the switches you don't want (LINK showing the guts)
re-arrange buttons to your liking
install face plate from the second switch panel you purchased LINK
code??
Maybe someone else can chime in on this.
If you have a latter year car I believe the only option is to find a second hand module in the exact configuration you're after. If OP has earlier model year and thy can source the switches they need they will be able to do as you say.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Originally posted by karter16 View Post
Funny timing - exactly same thing that happened to me a few weeks ago. I have a GPS on the way from bmwfnatic.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Originally posted by davidinnyc View Post0-60motorsports calling you in here
So I wrote last week that I went for a spirited drive on a relatively hot day with no crank fan... SMG COG light came on, car revved in 3rd gear but I had to limp off the freeway. Turned the car off, waited a few minutes, turned it back on and managed to get to my first destination. I returned home, SMG COG light came on, I pulled off the freeway and waited an hour for the car to cool down. Drove home without issue.
Pulled codes and came up with these:
36 (0x24) Auswertung Positionsgeber Waehlwinkel
37 (0x25) Auswertung Positionsgeber Schaltweg
Quick Google searching has led me to the conclusion that the GPS (gear position sensor) needs to be replaced, but just wanted to know if anyone else has experienced these symptoms. I can hear the accumulator prime properly when I open the driver's door (about 8-10 seconds) and the gears seem to shift fine when the car does indeed shift and not die.
Today was interesting in that the car died shortly after starting and testing the shifts... car was on for about one minute when everything died, battery light was red, oil light was red, etc.
Thanks in advance!
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Originally posted by M3LSB.Gab View PostAnybody can help me find that PN for this module ? without heated seats and HK button. thanks in advance !!
My gut feeling is that you can do this:
buy a switch panel that has 3 buttons on it. LINK
remove/steal the face plate from that one
remove the face plate from your factory one. remove the switches you don't want (LINK showing the guts)
re-arrange buttons to your liking
install face plate from the second switch panel you purchased LINK
code??
Maybe someone else can chime in on this.
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Bumper mounting drama.
2004 M3. Front bumper was a little misaligned so I took it off to re-fit. Discovered the four mounting studs (part #17) that screw into the carbon crash bar were missing. Odd?
Ordered those. Installed them with the spacers on the middle two, no spacers on the outer two.
Bumper goes on, fits well, but will not click into any of the four studs with any reasonable amount of force. I feel like I'm going to start doing damage if I press harder.
I lightly sanded them to take off the very slight edges from production, gave them some light grease. Still no go.
Grease marks on the bumper sockets line up enough that some of them should go, but no.
Tried to press the stud into the bumper socket on it's own and it won't go.
Anyone else experience this? Is the culprit just the 20yo rubber not flexing at all?
Thinking about taking ~1mm off the studs so they slip in easier. As is, they are 15mm OD on the studs and 12.5mm id for the receiving socket.
Last edited by Keith_MN; 03-04-2025, 05:33 PM.
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0-60motorsports calling you in here
So I wrote last week that I went for a spirited drive on a relatively hot day with no crank fan... SMG COG light came on, car revved in 3rd gear but I had to limp off the freeway. Turned the car off, waited a few minutes, turned it back on and managed to get to my first destination. I returned home, SMG COG light came on, I pulled off the freeway and waited an hour for the car to cool down. Drove home without issue.
Pulled codes and came up with these:
36 (0x24) Auswertung Positionsgeber Waehlwinkel
37 (0x25) Auswertung Positionsgeber Schaltweg
Quick Google searching has led me to the conclusion that the GPS (gear position sensor) needs to be replaced, but just wanted to know if anyone else has experienced these symptoms. I can hear the accumulator prime properly when I open the driver's door (about 8-10 seconds) and the gears seem to shift fine when the car does indeed shift and not die.
Today was interesting in that the car died shortly after starting and testing the shifts... car was on for about one minute when everything died, battery light was red, oil light was red, etc.
Thanks in advance!
- Likes 1
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