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  • Avedis
    replied

    Originally posted by Slideways View Post
    If they are anything like the E60 M5, they should be removable and replaceable with the windshields in place. They usually have a metal U shaped frame built into the seal that clips into the glass. It can sometimes take a lot of effort to get the gasket removal started. Best to tape off the area to keep the paint from getting damaged.
    Following up on this, both came out. It is either incredibly difficult or really easy depending on how much or little windshield sealant squished out into the channel before they were installed.


    Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
    I currently have my car into a pro detailer to remove a very old clear bra/ppf. He got it off no problem, but should I re-apply PPF? My DDs have it, as I'm on the highway and our shit roads have many surprises. The car looks great without PPF IMO, curious what others think.
    If the paint is good underneath, absolutely reapply. PPF for any given panel is a couple hundred, paint for any panel is $1000+. If the shop is any good, ask them to do a bulk install rather than template (or at least modify a pre-designed template). A well done car should show little to no seams/edges. There are a lot of shops that can do it, but you can check Topaz Detailing online for examples of well done PPF work.

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  • PSUEng
    replied
    I currently have my car into a pro detailer to remove a very old clear bra/ppf. He got it off no problem, but should I re-apply PPF? My DDs have it, as I'm on the highway and our shit roads have many surprises. The car looks great without PPF IMO, curious what others think.

    Leave a comment:


  • Slideways
    replied
    Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
    My turn for today: Years ago I went with the replacement so-called (as I recall, anyway) "aero" wiper blades and I think I tossed my original blades. Can I still buy those and the appropriate rubber inserts? I think I want to go back to original after driving in the rain today and watching these "aero" blades dance all over the place.
    The frames appear to be NLA. There should be a few NOS on eBay or used sets from any E46.

    While FCP no longer carries the Bosch inserts, one or two other venders might still have them.

    Leave a comment:


  • Slideways
    replied
    Originally posted by Avedis View Post
    Is it possible to remove/replace the front and rear windshield rubber trim (gasket) without pulling the glass? I just gave it a look and damn those things are stiff and deep under the glass.
    If they are anything like the E60 M5, they should be removable and replaceable with the windshields in place. They usually have a metal U shaped frame built into the seal that clips into the glass. It can sometimes take a lot of effort to get the gasket removal started. Best to tape off the area to keep the paint from getting damaged.

    Leave a comment:


  • Avedis
    replied
    Is it possible to remove/replace the front and rear windshield rubber trim (gasket) without pulling the glass? I just gave it a look and damn those things are stiff and deep under the glass.

    Leave a comment:


  • PSUEng
    replied
    My turn for today: Years ago I went with the replacement so-called (as I recall, anyway) "aero" wiper blades and I think I tossed my original blades. Can I still buy those and the appropriate rubber inserts? I think I want to go back to original after driving in the rain today and watching these "aero" blades dance all over the place.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gt4
    replied
    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
    No
    Thanks, my LSB will be even lighter!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    No

    Leave a comment:


  • Gt4
    replied
    I have a dumb question. We never had halogens headlights on Canadian E46 M3 and I was wondering if halogens had leveling switches on front and rear control arms too??

    I don't think they have it but just want to confirm

    Leave a comment:


  • IamFODI
    replied
    Originally posted by BigRussia View Post

    Haha yup, I’m not too worried since I figure yeah maybe it’s the Redline oil. Now if on the next report being back on LM trends like this I’d really start worrying/planning for RB service.

    Yup exact same use on the LiquiMoly GT1 10W-60, I was doing the same amount of track days on the previous LM fills/oa reports; they're the 2023 and 2022 reports on there (even having more mileage on the 2023 fill). Only reason I switched away from LM was cause of reading Bimmerworld’s tech articles and them recommending the RL 15w50 for S54’s that see some track time :/
    I guess it's possible that what you saw was a mild wear spike due to Red Line's aggressive chemistry and it'd go away after a bit. I wouldn't personally take that chance, but it does give us a reason to give BW the benefit of the doubt on this. Either way, for whatever my opinion's worth, I can't blame you for taking their reco.

    Leave a comment:


  • BigRussia
    replied
    Originally posted by IamFODI View Post
    I personally wouldn't go changing rod bearings immediately based on this, but I sure as hell would have done what you did, i.e. go back to the oil that was producing good reports. This may have been a case of fixing what ain't broke.

    Was your usage similar on LM 10W-60, though?
    Haha yup, I’m not too worried since I figure yeah maybe it’s the Redline oil. Now if on the next report being back on LM trends like this I’d really start worrying/planning for RB service.

    Yup exact same use on the LiquiMoly GT1 10W-60, I was doing the same amount of track days on the previous LM fills/oa reports; they're the 2023 and 2022 reports on there (even having more mileage on the 2023 fill). Only reason I switched away from LM was cause of reading Bimmerworld’s tech articles and them recommending the RL 15w50 for S54’s that see some track time :/

    Leave a comment:


  • IamFODI
    replied
    Originally posted by BigRussia View Post
    Do we still have a running/active Blackstone Oil Analysis thread? I tried looking for it as didn't want to create yet another oil thread lol.

    I just got my report back and both tin and lead are higher now after running Redline 15w50 for two fills with mostly track and HPDE use So now wondering if its already time again for another rod bearing job.. they were changed with OEM ~16k miles ago. Last report (first fill of trying RL 15w50) BS noted Tin was higher, while all my previous reports w LM 10w60 were glowing and engine was wearing good according to them. Im now currently back on LM 10w60.
    Click image for larger version Name:	IMG_1973.jpg Views:	0 Size:	149.7 KB ID:	302979
    I personally wouldn't go changing rod bearings immediately based on this, but I sure as hell would have done what you did, i.e. go back to the oil that was producing good reports. This may have been a case of fixing what ain't broke.

    Was your usage similar on LM 10W-60, though?

    Leave a comment:


  • BigRussia
    replied
    Do we still have a running/active Blackstone Oil Analysis thread? I tried looking for it as didn't want to create yet another oil thread lol.

    I just got my report back and both tin and lead are higher now after running Redline 15w50 for two fills with mostly track and HPDE use So now wondering if its already time again for another rod bearing job.. they were changed with OEM ~16k miles ago. Last report (first fill of trying RL 15w50) BS noted Tin was higher, while all my previous reports w LM 10w60 were glowing and engine was wearing good according to them. Im now currently back on LM 10w60.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1973.jpg Views:	0 Size:	149.7 KB ID:	302979

    Leave a comment:


  • Slideways
    replied
    Originally posted by CrisSilberGrau View Post
    Im having a very frustrating issue where I cannot get my car to scan and/or be read on a scanner. I've used every scanner even very expensive Autel Maxisys ones with the same outcome: no link/connection/communication. Whats the best way to get this fixed? Can this be caused by a module refusing to link/communicate with the scanner?
    Check for damaged pins on the OBD port; otherwise, it could be caused by a bad steering angle sensor - https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...ad-me.1284285/


    Leave a comment:


  • CrisSilberGrau
    replied
    Im having a very frustrating issue where I cannot get my car to scan and/or be read on a scanner. I've used every scanner even very expensive Autel Maxisys ones with the same outcome: no link/connection/communication. Whats the best way to get this fixed? Can this be caused by a module refusing to link/communicate with the scanner?

    Leave a comment:

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