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  • jayjaya29
    replied
    Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
    On a car with EWS disabled in the dme/binary modification tool, could a bad key still be responsible for a intermittent no crank/no start ?
    I am not an expert on this area but IIRC the EWS box can still go bad even if the EWS is "coded" out.

    Last edited by jayjaya29; 08-28-2025, 03:56 AM.

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  • bavarian3
    replied
    On a car with EWS disabled in the dme/binary modification tool, could a bad key still be responsible for a intermittent no crank/no start ?

    Leave a comment:


  • oceansize
    replied
    Originally posted by Nate047 View Post
    I'm putting my driveshaft back in and re-mounting my diff, I saw this in the torque spec PDF. Just looking to clarify what this means, and what order everything needs to be put in and torqued on the driveshaft, guibo, CSB, and all diff mounts.

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    Slide towards front of the car from its neutral position. pre loads the csb

    This hasn't been discussed on this forum yet as far as I could find so I figure let's make a thread on it for future google searches. I am in the middle of my Vincebar install, rear end refresh, suspension overhaul job. One of the things I was trying to decide was whether to run the OE Diff paper gasket or use RTV gasket
    Last edited by oceansize; 08-24-2025, 05:47 PM.

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  • Nate047
    replied
    I'm putting my driveshaft back in and re-mounting my diff, I saw this in the torque spec PDF. Just looking to clarify what this means, and what order everything needs to be put in and torqued on the driveshaft, guibo, CSB, and all diff mounts.

    Click image for larger version

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ID:	316554

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  • BMWE46M3
    replied
    That may be a total mother to chase or hopefully you can be fortunate and find that it's simply a poor grounding issue. I'd suggest disconnecting and cleaning the battery cables and points where they mount to the car. If that doesn't help you can also try doing the same in the engine bay where the car is supposed to be jumped and/or connected to the battery tender. And if that doesn't work you can try the same with the alternator cables and mounting points. Lastly, see if it happens with and with the AC compressor running. I've been chasing a similar problem for years with my E36 which I completely replace the head unit, amp, and speakers with high-end stuff. Worked flawlessly for years than I get engine whine - but only periodically. For the life of me I can't remediate it.

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  • Calb
    replied
    I have a BlueBus issue. I installed my BlueBus 6 months ago and absolutely love it. The 5x turn signal is great. Last week there has been a buzzing sound that matches the engine revs. I have not done anything to the car and confused as to why this is happening.
    TIA

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  • ugaexploder
    replied
    Originally posted by ATB88 View Post
    Anybody have experience with these "aftermarket" HJS muffler hangers? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...js-18201401797

    The OE BMW ones are $85/piece and I need 3. Would much rather spend $25/piece, but won't bother if they're crap or lesser in quality from the BMW pieces. I hesitate because it says it's aftermarket, not OEM.
    I'm running the HJS ones mainly because at time of purchase I didn't really understand the differences between OE, OEM, and Genuine BMW parts...but they seem to work just fine, I've had zero issues. Hard to justify $350 for all (5) exhaust bushings that are genuine BMW...

    Also purchased the rogue mount but didn't install, let me know if anyone wants to buy it from me for cheap. I personally don't like the idea of the design.

    Leave a comment:


  • karter16
    replied
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
    I *think* the HJS were found to be subpar, more flexible, someone else will chime in I'm sure.
    I remember going OEM but this was 3 years ago when they were likely much cheaper.

    FWIW one of the Uber expensive, but very nice, Rouge Engineering mounts on PS coupled with rubber OE style mounts on the DS makes for a solid yet still compliant setup with minimal to zero NVH.

    I have a SCZA muffler that would hit the EVAP casing on occasion and that is the reason I run that setup.
    Can confirm the aftermarket ones are rubbish, OE is expensive but cheaper in the long run than replacing every year.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • Cubieman
    replied
    I *think* the HJS were found to be subpar, more flexible, someone else will chime in I'm sure.
    I remember going OEM but this was 3 years ago when they were likely much cheaper.

    FWIW one of the Uber expensive, but very nice, Rouge Engineering mounts on PS coupled with rubber OE style mounts on the DS makes for a solid yet still compliant setup with minimal to zero NVH.

    I have a SCZA muffler that would hit the EVAP casing on occasion and that is the reason I run that setup.

    Leave a comment:


  • ATB88
    replied
    Anybody have experience with these "aftermarket" HJS muffler hangers? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...js-18201401797

    The OE BMW ones are $85/piece and I need 3. Would much rather spend $25/piece, but won't bother if they're crap or lesser in quality from the BMW pieces. I hesitate because it says it's aftermarket, not OEM.

    Leave a comment:


  • bagger
    replied
    Originally posted by L0okitzRaj View Post
    to me, that just looks like a remnant of a sticker. i feel like you should be able to just pick it off.
    Hah. Wow. I never wanted to pick at it to potentially make it worse. Picked at it, and you were right - thanks! How that never came off with all the tire cleaning and stuff I have no idea. Glad I'm in the dumb question thread. Thanks!!

    Leave a comment:


  • L0okitzRaj
    replied
    to me, that just looks like a remnant of a sticker. i feel like you should be able to just pick it off.

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  • bagger
    replied
    Not sure what happened here. Been there for a while, but now it's bothering me. Should I be worried about this? Or just sharpie it and call it a day? Tires probably have like 2,000 miles on them - tops.

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    Last edited by bagger; 08-05-2025, 02:33 PM.

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  • Shonky
    replied
    Originally posted by duracellttu View Post
    Can somebody remind me what color wire is the 12V switched power going to the BM53 amp in the trunk? I think it's red with green stripe??

    Also, anybody what gauge wire that 12V switched line is? I'm trying ton find the right size posi-connector to tap into it.
    RT/GN (rot,gruen) is permanent 12V. Switched should be VI/WS aka violet/white.

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  • duracellttu
    replied
    Can somebody remind me what color wire is the 12V switched power going to the BM53 amp in the trunk? I think it's red with green stripe??

    Also, anybody what gauge wire that 12V switched line is? I'm trying ton find the right size posi-connector to tap into it.

    Leave a comment:

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