Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[maupineda]

Will I be able to replace the pinion shaft seal with the differential outside the car if I don't have a large bench vise?

Yes, assuming you don’t need to crush the pinion sleeve. Once it is crushed the torque to put the nut back on is not huge. Just make sure you mark it well so you can go back to the right settings.

when I did my diff I actually did this. I installed the diff with the drive shaft flange off and it was much easier to install, once bolted I used a large breaker bar to drive the nut back to the mark. You have to do this anyway as you preload the bearings without the seal.

[Slideways]

Will I be able to replace the pinion shaft seal with the differential outside the car if I don't have a large bench vise?

I have only seen this DIY'd while the diff is in the car. Maybe if the diff is mounted to the subframe while it is on the ground, but my guess is probably not.

[oceansize]

Will I be able to replace the pinion shaft seal with the differential outside the car if I don't have a large bench vise?

[0-60motorsports]

Does anyone know if the 2020 F87 M2 Competition Calipers fit on our cars and what Rotors can be used with them? Also what mods need to be made to the calipers.

[YYZ-M3]

What do you mean by plug and play? There is modification required to run the F8X set up.

I mean the least amount of machining/custom bracketry for front and rear. Looks like the F8X is relatively straight forward from the thread I linked.

[IamFODI]

What do you mean by plug and play? There is modification required to run the F8X set up. If you want plug and play buy a Brembo GT kit.

^ This

YYZ-M3, you're absolutely right to think plug-and-play here. Messing with a safety-critical system just for looks is already taking things a bit far. If you're going to do this, you want the simplest possible install with absolutely top-shelf parts.

Anything that requires machining, rule it out immediately. And if you see any supposedly plug-and-play kit that's cheaper than a Brembo GT kit, there's a reason, and you should steer clear.

[Cronenberged]

I am looking for the most “plug and play” OEM BBK setup for my cabrio. I am not seeking better performance, just looks.

Is the F8X fitment the best option?
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...swap-on-e46-m3

What do you mean by plug and play? There is modification required to run the F8X set up. If you want plug and play buy a Brembo GT kit.

[YYZ-M3]

I am looking for the most “plug and play” OEM BBK setup for my cabrio. I am not seeking better performance, just looks.

Is the F8X fitment the best option?

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/36569-f8x-brembo-bbk-swap-on-e46-m3

[Slideways]

I keep trying to align my car with a string alignment and the wheel is off to the left about 2-3°.

I should have bought a quality string alignment kit, but am just using jack stands/PVC pipes. Nonetheless, once properly set it up it should yield accurate results.

I use 2 straps to center the wheel, I am almost thinking I may try one more time and bias the wheel to the right.

I am likely just going to take it to a local shop as this is getting frustrating.

Centering the wheel is easier when the front wheels are off the ground and then set back down on the ground. Either you have to move the wheel back and forth to find true dead center or the steering angle sensor might give you a reading in INPA.

The other method is to align the car first, check to see how far off the steering wheel is, and make minute adjustments to both tie rods at the same time to bring it back to center. If the steering wheel is slightly off to the left, the right tie rod needs to be shortened (ex. 1/8th of a turn) and the left tie rod needs to be lengthened (ex. 1/8th of a turn). Vice versa if it is slightly off to the right.

[Cubieman]

I keep trying to align my car with a string alignment and the wheel is off to the left about 2-3°.

I should have bought a quality string alignment kit, but am just using jack stands/PVC pipes. Nonetheless, once properly set it up it should yield accurate results.

I use 2 straps to center the wheel, I am almost thinking I may try one more time and bias the wheel to the right.

I am likely just going to take it to a local shop as this is getting frustrating.

[powerbait]

I've had the Dinan springs for a couple of years and they ride great paired with the Konis, but the rear always seemed too high. I've had set of Eibachs I picked up a while back and recently threw just the rears, since it's such an easy swap. It dropped the rear just enough to not to look so raked forward. I'm not as impressed with the ride, the Dinan were a bit stiffer, maybe a few clicks on the dampers will help, but that is more involved with rear konis than I want to deal with at the moment. Subframe is coming out soon, I'll deal with it then.

[Bebop]

CSL is 13.62 F and 13.45 R according to TIS.

There is more in this thread about ride height - https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...uspension-mods

Thank you for this.
Also thank you Obioban for writing it.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with Dinan springs.

[Slideways]

Tagging on to the question of ride height, I keep seeing the suggestion of 13.5F/13R on this forum in regards to aftermarket suspension, why such a difference?

I have TCK's, I wonder about doing 13.5 all around, or 13.25 all around, why have less travel in the rear?

Also, I personally don't like the asthetics of such a noticeable ride height difference front to rear.

CSL is 13.62 F and 13.45 R according to TIS.

There is more in this thread about ride height - https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...uspension-mods

[IamFODI]

Tagging on to the question of ride height, I keep seeing the suggestion of 13.5F/13R on this forum in regards to aftermarket suspension, why such a difference?

I have TCK's, I wonder about doing 13.5 all around, or 13.25 all around, why have less travel in the rear?

Also, I personally don't like the asthetics of such a noticeable ride height difference front to rear.

AFAIK...

The front fenders just have more clearance designed into them to account for steering. So, as far as the chassis itself is concerned, equal front and rear fender gaps would mean more rake. Stock rake or less will always mean more fender gap in front than in rear.

[Cubieman]

Tagging on to the question of ride height, I keep seeing the suggestion of 13.5F/13R on this forum in regards to aftermarket suspension, why such a difference?

I have TCK's, I wonder about doing 13.5 all around, or 13.25 all around, why have less travel in the rear?

Also, I personally don't like the asthetics of such a noticeable ride height difference front to rear.