How bad is this strut tower crack?

[sdwz_m3]

Weird thing is that I am running them. Also the third owner at 150k so who knows what happened before


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[S3diment]

Where are you located in OH?

Im across the river in KY about 10 mins from Cincinnati. I have had various services done on both my ZHPs at Stein Automotive in Louisville, might look into them as well. Only other place I could recommend, I use an independent mechanic/friend near Kenwood Mall that I’ve known for years (excellent mechanic, fabulous welder/fabricator, and a BMW/euro guy) that could probably fix that.

About 20 min north of West Chester. PMing you now.

[usdmej]

I have a crack on mine too, however different location. Mine is on both towers where the strut bolts are. The shop I’m going to will drill two holes on either end and then weld the crack. I assume yours could be fixed the same. Pic for reference


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had a similar crack on my strut tower, i was running coilovers and thought a mason strut bar (no reinforcement plates) would be sufficient
shop i took it to didn't find it very notable, seems like a common occurrence for people running stiff suspension
they added reinforcement plates after fixing the cracks

[OldRanger]

(Also related to a concurrent discussion on strut braces)

Now that I’m looking closely, I see there is a crack on my car’s passenger side strut tower (I recently traded cars with my son, so I’m still getting acquainted to this one. It’s a 2002 (8/2001))

The crack appears to ‘be’ on the same position as the edge of the TC Kline camber plate.

I’d appreciate thoughts on how to repair this, and whether or not a strut brace will help strengthen this long term. I will to track this car at HPDEs without mercy. The front springs are currently 400s. I have a plan to go up in spring rate, and already have a set 500s from TCK I’m waiting to put on.

I want to repair this before or while I’m swapping coils, installing helper springs, and before an alignment and corner balance.

[eacmen]

Drill each end of the crack and weld it. Get the plates that sit between the camber plate and the strut tower. A strut brace will definitely be helpful if you are tracking the car.

If you ignore it and don't get it welded the crack will spread regardless of the brace and plates.

[Cubieman]

Look very closely on the all the holes, particularly the inner most holes, they look to be the weakest as that huge alignment pin hole is right next to the stud slot. Not a lot of material in between those 2 holes.

You'll of course need to remove the suspension anyways for welding, wouldn't be surprised if you find signs of cracking elsewhere that's currently covered.

I just got my cracks welded, gonna hit the repair area with gray primer until I can figure out a legit re-paint strategy.

Going to be ruining the underside plates, which I already had been, in conjuction with a Rouge brace, I don't care for the OE brace's small contact surfaces.

[bigjae46]

(Also related to a concurrent discussion on strut braces)

Now that I’m looking closely, I see there is a crack on my car’s passenger side strut tower (I recently traded cars with my son, so I’m still getting acquainted to this one. It’s a 2002 (8/2001))

The crack appears to ‘be’ on the same position as the edge of the TC Kline camber plate.

I’d appreciate thoughts on how to repair this, and whether or not a strut brace will help strengthen this long term. I will to track this car at HPDEs without mercy. The front springs are currently 400s. I have a plan to go up in spring rate, and already have a set 500s from TCK I’m waiting to put on.

I want to repair this before or while I’m swapping coils, installing helper springs, and before an alignment and corner balance.

Dang, I have a set of 500lb TCK front springs....brand new!

Ideally, TIG welding would minimize the heat affected zone (HAZ) which results in increased brittleness. TIG needs the metal to be clean, clean, clean so it would require a significant amount of prep on the front and back side. MIG would be easier with larger HAZ and splatter - so you need to cover the area. MIG needs a lot less prep.

Either way, if the crack is all the way through you have to shield the backside with flux since it the weld will be exposed to oxygen. I'd think welding both sides would have a smaller HAZ but I'm not sure.

In this case, it might be worth post weld heat treating which reduces the brittleness of the HAZ.