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Rod bearing replacement at 95000 miles

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    Rod bearing replacement at 95000 miles

    Had the rod bearings replaced ~95000 miles on the car. My M3 is Feb/03 build and never had the bearings replaced by BMW. Overall I think this was the perfect time to have them changed as copper is starting to show.
    There was some confusion about the rod bolts as some places state the change was made after feb/03 and some that state Jan/03, I had bought the ARP bolts for the older version and my car actually had the newer version ( just in case someone else is in a similar situation).
    For anyone in Michigan Dixon Motorsports does awesome work.

    Attached Files

    #2
    Per service bulletin, it was 12/13/2002.



    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

    Youtube DIYs and more

    All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

    PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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      #3
      Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
      Per service bulletin, it was 12/13/2002.



      Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
      thanks for posting that.
      It was my mistake for trusting ecs and not double checking.
      Attached Files

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        #4
        Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
        Per service bulletin, it was 12/13/2002.



        Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
        So would the early m11 vs newer m10 bolt motors be more stout seeing as it has a much stronger bolt?

        what I worry about with mine is how many times can you re-use the m11 bolts....

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Thoglan

          When I was getting my motor rebuilt I asked this exact question to my builder who has some pretty decent credentials, an ex BMW head technician from BMW NZ who branched off to build racecars. He essentially said if it was his car, regardless of what the service bulletin says, he wouldn't reuse the bolts ever. That being said I've never heard of a rod bolt failure so take that with a grain of salt.
          I’m not even sure you can get the bolts alone...used to have to replace the whole rod to get the bolts.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by BOOSTED View Post
            Had the rod bearings replaced ~95000 miles on the car. My M3 is Feb/03 build and never had the bearings replaced by BMW. Overall I think this was the perfect time to have them changed as copper is starting to show.
            There was some confusion about the rod bolts as some places state the change was made after feb/03 and some that state Jan/03, I had bought the ARP bolts for the older version and my car actually had the newer version ( just in case someone else is in a similar situation).
            For anyone in Michigan Dixon Motorsports does awesome work.
            How much did Phil at Dixon charge you for labor? He's not too far from me (I'm in Toledo) and I always see him post at the Michigan BMW group

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Ajcanadian View Post

              How much did Phil at Dixon charge you for labor? He's not too far from me (I'm in Toledo) and I always see him post at the Michigan BMW group
              $1050 including rod bolts, bearings provided by me

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Redline View Post

                I’m not even sure you can get the bolts alone...used to have to replace the whole rod to get the bolts.
                Yep, as far as I know you can't. He never suggested a solution and luckily my car ended up having the new version of the rod (which you can buy new bolts for). I assume the only other option is aftermarket or a new set of rods which seems absurd.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Redline View Post

                  So would the early m11 vs newer m10 bolt motors be more stout seeing as it has a much stronger bolt?

                  what I worry about with mine is how many times can you re-use the m11 bolts....
                  M11 are not torque to yield bolts like M10 are, so can be reused. A lot of people prefer to still replace with ARP, since you already have everything apart anyway. That said, how many times do you plan on doing rod bearings, haha.

                  Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                  Youtube DIYs and more

                  All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                  PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Lang Racing posted in a thread a while back on M3F that the ARP M11s did not distort the bore, but the ARP M10s did. If the OE M11s have been used more than two or three times, I'd consider going with the ARP M11s. For the M10s, I'd go with OE since they are still available and can be purchased from FCP. I don't see BMW stopping production of a TTY fastener anytime soon.
                    Last edited by Slideways; 11-02-2020, 01:28 PM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by BOOSTED View Post

                      $1050 including rod bolts, bearings provided by me
                      Not bad at all. I saw Phil posted pics of your car getting the rear subframe reinforced too!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        What did both of those run you? I need both done sometime and am in MI, my local Indy is great but hasn’t done the subframe ever before.

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