Any tricks to pressing them out? Can you retain alignment? Thinking about tackling the job soon
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When I did it, I just rented a universal ball joint remover from autozone. The set had all the right size attachments I need and it made the job super easy.
Not a 100% necessary if you don’t mess with the eccentric bolts or rear trailing arm in the bushing side, but I would get another alignment after your done.2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 288/280 Schrick Cams+DLC Followers | Lang Head | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 400/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | Turbo Toys V2 Hub | WPC Rod Bearings -
Make sure you don't press onto the middle of the joint when installing the new ones, but instead on the outer casing (blue lines not red ones).
Youtube DIYs and more
All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.
PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.Comment
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