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OEM ones can be reused as long as you don't damage them. I personally bought mine from FCP. People have tried normal hose clamps but those do not expand/contract like the OEM ones do under hot conditions.
'06 BMW M3 6MT Coupe -TiAg/Imola '99 BMW M3 5MT Coupe - Estoril/Dove '00 Honda Civic Si - Electron Blue Pearl/Black '11 Toyota Tacoma T/X TRD - Magnetic Grey/Grey
Just be carful with normal hose clamps and position the bulky section away from the motion of the throttle linkage.
2003.5 Titanium Silver / Black 6M/T (Gone) 2003.5 Carbon Black / Laguna Seca Blue SMG (Dusted) 2004 Carbon Black / Black SMG converted to 6M/T(Current)
One of the common complaints when working on this particular engine is that the OE clamps are a pain in the butt; but that’s only if you’ve never used them a...
Can you guys share your preferred tool for doing these? I'm gonna be honest, it took me WAY longer than I would like to admit to get the clamps on cyl 5 and 6 because of physical space limitations. Any tips on making it easier next time, not just the tool itself, would be greatly appreciated.
If you own your BMW for any amount of time, you're going to be taking off the airbox more than you think. So If you're not concerned with an OEM appearance, just go with aftermarket worm clamps. I can get mine loose with ease using an 8mm socket with an extension.
Can you guys share your preferred tool for doing these? I'm gonna be honest, it took me WAY longer than I would like to admit to get the clamps on cyl 5 and 6 because of physical space limitations. Any tips on making it easier next time, not just the tool itself, would be greatly appreciated.
A medium size set of needle nose plyers with teeth make it very easy to get those clamps off if you don't have the tool. I clock the clamps in a way that the unlocking portion is accessible even with the air rail on.
If you own your BMW for any amount of time, you're going to be taking off the airbox more than you think. So If you're not concerned with an OEM appearance, just go with aftermarket worm clamps. I can get mine loose with ease using an 8mm socket with an extension.
Normal worm clamps can damage the airbox, as the engine heats/cools. The stock clamps are able to expand, contract.
Fine on the tb side, not on the airbox side.
2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
2012 LMB/Black 128i
2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan
MLR Engineering in Canada offers a specialty clamp for the air box application. They also offer SMG replacement parts. https://mlreng.com
I would also like to find the tool that was used in that YouTube video.
Another vote for stock clamps. Once you get them off the first time and clock them so that they're easily reachable, they're super easy to remove. I just use regular needle nose pliers and can get them off pretty quick.
I've read that E9x M3 intake manifold clamps (07129952129) fit as well. However, they are only used on the plenum side on the S65. The throttle body side uses crimp style clamps, which is probably due to their ability to react to thermal expansion (what Obioban was talking about).
Regardless, I don't see the S65 clamps being an issue on the airbox side of the boots. I would stick to stock clamps on the throttle body side due to the thermal thing.
Another vote for stock clamps. Once you get them off the first time and clock them so that they're easily reachable, they're super easy to remove. I just use regular needle nose pliers and can get them off pretty quick.
I've read that E9x M3 intake manifold clamps (07129952129) fit as well. However, they are only used on the plenum side on the S65. The throttle body side uses crimp style clamps, which is probably due to their ability to react to thermal expansion (what Obioban was talking about).
Regardless, I don't see the S65 clamps being an issue on the airbox side of the boots. I would stick to stock clamps on the throttle body side due to the thermal thing.
He's talking about the opposite thing happening. The throttle body side is metal and won't get crushed by fully tightening down a screw type clamp; however, the OEM airbox has plastic connectors to the trumpets and there is a chance that they can get damaged from over tightening. I have not seen it happen yet and a good amount people use them on the stock airbox (also used on the S65). I think BMW used the ear clamp type to get a 360 degree seal rather than to avoid damage to the plastic trumpets. So it might just leak a bit with screw type clamps.
He's talking about the opposite thing happening. The throttle body side is metal and won't get crushed by fully tightening down a screw type clamp; however, the OEM airbox has plastic connectors to the trumpets and there is a chance that they can get damaged from over tightening. I have not seen it happen yet and a good amount people use them on the stock airbox (also used on the S65). I think BMW used the ear clamp type to get a 360 degree seal rather than to avoid damage to the plastic trumpets. So it might just leak a bit with screw type clamps.
Yeah you're right. For some reason I assumed that metal would expand more than the plastic that makes up the airbox, but quick search leads me to believe that's not the case. I guess the opposite of what I said is what you would want. Clamps that don't expand are fine on the throttle body side, but not on the airbox side since it will expand more than the clamps and can get crushed.
Wonder why BMW used worm clamps on the S65 airbox then. Maybe they allow for some expansion?
While it's possible to overtighten a hoseclamp and crack the cf, the cf will not be cracking because it expanded and the hose clamp didn't.
And how do you overtighten a hose clamp lol just snug. You should only be using a hand driver or a 1/4" socket wrench anyway not 3/8" with a foot of leverage.
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