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    No anti-sieze on spark plugs?

    I am doing spark plugs for the first time on the M3 and can't help but notice the stickied torque value thread says to NOT use anti-sieze, is this because you may over torque the spark plug? I am out in the garge doing this right now and just wondered.
    Also I see the torque value is 17 + 2.2 ft lbs, I am just going to set it for 18 and call it good. What are you guys torquing to? Thanks.
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    #2
    I usually torque to 18 ft lbs, no anti seize. From what I've read anti seize can cause over torquing issues.

    EDIT: Adding anti-seize on spark plug threads causes over torquing Spark plug torque specs are based on DRY threads. When you apply anti-seize, you must reduce torque by 10-15%. Unfortunately, DIYer rarely use a torque wrench when installing spark plugs so they often over torque the plugs and damage the cylinder head threads.

    Last edited by WOLFN8TR; 11-18-2020, 07:38 PM.
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      #3
      Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
      I am doing spark plugs for the first time on the M3 and can't help but notice the stickied torque value thread says to NOT use anti-sieze, is this because you may over torque the spark plug? I am out in the garge doing this right now and just wondered.
      Also I see the torque value is 17 + 2.2 ft lbs, I am just going to set it for 18 and call it good. What are you guys torquing to? Thanks.
      I always use it and torque to 20 instead of 22 which I think is spec, no problems, just did it today. I use a minimal amount though, just a super super thin coat (I apply a dot and spin the threads between my fingers so it spreads evenly and make sure there are no blobs. You will get all kinds of responses, don’t over think it. I would not want to not use it at all though, just seems like it is asking for problems.

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        #4
        One more potentially overthinking it type of a question here. I will be doing vanos/valve adj. over the winter, would it be wise to wait and do the plugs at that point as not to "ruin" the crush washer on the plugs or it considered ok to pull these plugs regularly as I imagine many do?
        2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
        Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
        Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

        OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
        RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

        2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
        Instagram

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          #5
          Originally posted by Icecream View Post

          I always use it and torque to 20 instead of 22 which I think is spec, no problems, just did it today. I use a minimal amount though, just a super super thin coat (I apply a dot and spin the threads between my fingers so it spreads evenly and make sure there are no blobs. You will get all kinds of responses, don’t over think it. I would not want to not use it at all though, just seems like it is asking for problems.
          For the last couple decades, spark plugs have had some sort of plating that renders antiseize unnecessary. I've personally never used antiseize with my spark plugs and never had trouble pulling them.

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            #6
            Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
            One more potentially overthinking it type of a question here. I will be doing vanos/valve adj. over the winter, would it be wise to wait and do the plugs at that point as not to "ruin" the crush washer on the plugs or it considered ok to pull these plugs regularly as I imagine many do?
            I don't use torque wrench on the plugs. Hand-turn it until bottomed on the head, then torque additional 1/8 turns.

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              #7
              Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
              I am doing spark plugs for the first time on the M3 and can't help but notice the stickied torque value thread says to NOT use anti-sieze, is this because you may over torque the spark plug? I am out in the garge doing this right now and just wondered.
              Also I see the torque value is 17 + 2.2 ft lbs, I am just going to set it for 18 and call it good. What are you guys torquing to? Thanks.
              another reason for not using antiseize is there is a very high chance it hurts the thermal headtransfer so the plug runs hotter.

              Copaslip high temp anti-seize by Molyslip is known to work well even in high compression race engine applications

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                #8
                Originally posted by terra View Post

                For the last couple decades, spark plugs have had some sort of plating that renders antiseize unnecessary. I've personally never used antiseize with my spark plugs and never had trouble pulling them.
                That is true, it’s just a couple times the spark plugs were so difficult to remove I thought I was going to break something, so now I use it, again a super thin layer. It could have simply been from over torquing but I just don’t see any harm if you are careful with torque. NGK says it can affect torque up to 20% (so adjust for that) and they say it is not necessary.


                as for heat, copper is an excellent heat conductor and the layer is so thin I don’t see an issue there, even though it is not 100% copper.
                also for what it is worth it looks like copaslip and lubromoly 508 contain the same amount of actual copper (5%-10% By weight), the rest is mineral oil or some other concoction.
                Last edited by Icecream; 11-19-2020, 10:43 AM.

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                  #9
                  FWIW I've always put a tiny bit of oil of the spark plug threads prior to torqueing. By tiny bit, I mean putting a smudge of oil on my finger and wiping this over the spark plug thread. Never caused an issue on any car I've owned, including the M3.

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                    #10
                    This is probably the only place I don’t use anti-seize....

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