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Best way to pull engine?

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    Best way to pull engine?

    Planning to do rod bearings this winter on my ~113k mile car as they have never been done that I know of.

    I've decided I want to pull the engine to do them, even though I realize it's more work in the long run. I don't really feel like doing it on jacks, I like working on cars and doing new stuff I haven't done before, and the possibility of having the car out of my small garage through winter means I'd have enough room to work on something else (My buddy's S2000 most likely).

    I'll likely be pulling the engine and trans together and separating them once out of the car. Also planning on doing new engine mounts, front control arms and bushings, tie rods, steering coupler, clutch and associated parts, and probably cooling system refresh. Some say it's easier to remove the front clip and pull the engine/trans out the front, others say to drop them both with the subframe. I have an engine hoist and a set of QuickJacks. I'd like to keep the A/C and power steering systems intact if possible.

    Are Quickjacks high enough to drop the subframe/engine/trans out the bottom or will it be easier to pull it out the front?

    Also, what else should I be considering while the engine is out (on coilerovers and Vanos was done last winter)?
    2006 M3 6MT Interlagos Blue

    #2
    Put the car on a 4-post lift with the engine supported. Unbolt the engine sub-frame and lift the car off the engine.
    MVP Track Time

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      #3
      I tackled this recently for the first time on my m3 for a complete motor rebuild. On four max height jackstands there was no way the motor was coming out the bottom, and like you didn't want to disturb the AC loop. I opted to leave everything in the front intact, undo the transmission from engine (you can access the top bellhousing bolts from the top once the Airbox and whatnot is off. Then simply pull the engine off the tranny and hoist it up and out of the bay. It's possible this could have been done with the transmission still connected but it seemed easier to undo it tbh. Did have to wack the headers off mid pull as they weren't quite clearing the bellhousing, but this is easy once the motor is halfway out. All in all it really only took a morning to do and had expected it to be significantly more tedious than it was.

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        #4
        Pull the front end off (super easy), push the ac condenser to the side and slip it out the front. I have heard (and agree) after doing this myself that leaving the transmission bolted to it is the way to go.

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          #5
          It has been many years so I don't much remember the details, but my father and I took off the bumper and yanked it straight out. I don't think the Quickjack will give enough room. In your situation I'd do what Thoglan said-how was re-installation with that method though? I visualize it as sort of precarious. The nice thing about having the bumper off was being able to slide it right back in easily, no lifting the engine above your precious bodywork.

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            #6
            Originally posted by 01SG View Post
            how was re-installation with that method though? I visualize it as sort of precarious.
            I did worry about reinstallation a little little but it wasn't any harder than taking it out, same process just in reverse even so far as slipping the headers back on as the motor was halfway back in. The most difficult part is certainly the bellhousing bolts. But as far as I could tell the whole front end + drive shaft + exhaust + shift linkages had to come off to accommodate getting it out with the transmission just to avoid doing those top two or three bellhousing bolts. I bought a 10 dollar e torx spanner which reached those top bolts from the top side and got the rest from underneath.

            There was a slight struggle lining the motor up with the input shaft of the trans once it was in the bay but 15 minutes of jiggling things around sorts that issue. Atleast in my case, felt as though it would have taken longer to pull with the trans, but perhaps easier on reassembley.
            Last edited by Thoglan; 11-22-2020, 03:40 PM.

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              #7
              It’s just way easier to evac the AC system, pull the front clip off then drop the shocks or just unbolt the control arms and tie rods


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                #8
                Originally posted by Feffman View Post
                Put the car on a 4-post lift with the engine supported. Unbolt the engine sub-frame and lift the car off the engine.
                If I had access to a lift, I'd totally go this route! It definitely seems to be the easiest way to get the engine out. Unfortunately, I can't fit a real lift in my garage and am limited to the Quickjacks.

                Originally posted by Thoglan View Post
                I tackled this recently for the first time on my m3 for a complete motor rebuild. On four max height jackstands there was no way the motor was coming out the bottom, and like you didn't want to disturb the AC loop. I opted to leave everything in the front intact, undo the transmission from engine (you can access the top bellhousing bolts from the top once the Airbox and whatnot is off. Then simply pull the engine off the tranny and hoist it up and out of the bay. It's possible this could have been done with the transmission still connected but it seemed easier to undo it tbh. Did have to wack the headers off mid pull as they weren't quite clearing the bellhousing, but this is easy once the motor is halfway out. All in all it really only took a morning to do and had expected it to be significantly more tedious than it was.
                Originally posted by Thoglan View Post

                I did worry about reinstallation a little little but it wasn't any harder than taking it out, same process just in reverse even so far as slipping the headers back on as the motor was halfway back in. The most difficult part is certainly the bellhousing bolts. But as far as I could tell the whole front end + drive shaft + exhaust + shift linkages had to come off to accommodate getting it out with the transmission just to avoid doing those top two or three bellhousing bolts. I bought a 10 dollar e torx spanner which reached those top bolts from the top side and got the rest from underneath.

                There was a slight struggle lining the motor up with the input shaft of the trans once it was in the bay but 15 minutes of jiggling things around sorts that issue. Atleast in my case, felt as though it would have taken longer to pull with the trans, but perhaps easier on reassembley.
                Thanks for the feedback! The Quickjacks are a bit higher than my 3-ton jack stands, but it sounds like pulling the engine out the bottom still won't work. This is kind of what I figured for this route. I'm not too concerned about disconnecting the trans as I've already done this for the flex disc and center support bearing.

                Originally posted by Icecream View Post
                Pull the front end off (super easy), push the ac condenser to the side and slip it out the front. I have heard (and agree) after doing this myself that leaving the transmission bolted to it is the way to go.
                Think this might be the route I end up taking. There isn't a ton of info I could find on pulling the S54 from an M3, but the most common opinion that I read for the E46 in general is that pulling the engine and trans together is the easiest. I definitely don't have the height in the garage to pull both with the front clip on. If I can pull the engine and trans out the front without disrupting the AC loop, it seems to be the most logical option.
                2006 M3 6MT Interlagos Blue

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
                  It’s just way easier to evac the AC system, pull the front clip off then drop the shocks or just unbolt the control arms and tie rods


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                  Or just unbolt the compressor and move the condenser out of the way.
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                    #10
                    Rod bearings can be done 1/10th of the time it takes to pull this engine. Unbolt the front suspension, drop the front subframe with the steering rack and roll it out of the way on a jack. It is SIGNIFICANTLY more effort to pull an S54 than just doing rod bearings. The power steering system is, by far, the easiest system to bleed. Fill it, turn the the steering until the bubbles go away. It'd even be much less work to drop the transmission and do rod bearings than pull the engine.

                    If you want to work harder, to avoid cutting the wiring harness, you need to remove the intake and a few things under it to keep the harness in the car. Someone dropped and engine with the A/C connected but I had to take my compressor out. The power steering still has to be disconnected. I found the oil lines for the oil cooler to be rather annoying.

                    I enjoy working on cars but would not pull this engine again unless it was necessary. I understand the hobby, because it's mine too. Do more if you pull the engine, like a rebuild. That'd make it more rewarding, if you have the funds. Regardless of what you do, good luck and I hope you enjoy the work.
                    This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
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                      #11
                      FWIW, I just came across this video on rod bearing replacement and once you see it, it's really not hard at all. I plan on doing mine over the winter and now have no doubts on getting it done. Being this is m3f, I mean nam3f, I'm sure there will be some comments on what they did wrong in the video j/k πŸ˜‰

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by Phoenix///M3 View Post
                        Being this is m3f, I mean nam3f, I'm sure there will be some comments on what they did wrong in the video j/k πŸ˜‰
                        Didn't say "bro" enough, too little talking in general, and missing retarded influencer/please watch my channel music because I'm hip. 0 out of 10, would not watch again....
                        3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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