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Wheel stud kit on order ... now worried about them breaking on the track?

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    #31
    Originally posted by Feffman View Post
    After a rear stud failure at Mid-Ohio two years ago, I switched to MSI studs. I carefully torque them with a Snap-On torque wrench (calibrated every two years) and never toque them when they are hot. Even with all that, I'm still changing them every two years for peace of mind.



    Feff
    What brand were your original studs that had a failure? Bimmerworld?
    '03.5 M3 SMG Coupe - Jet Black / Black

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      #32
      I had apex studs on my car for two years, 4 or 5 track events, no issues. Just switched to BW studs this year, but haven’t made it to the track yet so will see how they hold up.

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        #33
        Just for the record I also have Apex studs...1 year now with about 5-6 events and so far they’ve been fine with no issues. Wasn’t aware of the issues with Apex studs, nor the studs offered by FCP. I would go that route next time, probably in a year.

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          #34
          So this is what I was thinking of from Turner - MSI. Pricey, any comments on how this compares to the Motorsports Hardware? I do weigh whether it better to pay for MSI and replace every 3-4 years vs buying something cheaper and replace every 1-2 years?


          ‘04 M3

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            #35
            Originally posted by Maxhouse97 View Post
            So this is what I was thinking of from Turner - MSI. Pricey, any comments on how this compares to the Motorsports Hardware? I do weigh whether it better to pay for MSI and replace every 3-4 years vs buying something cheaper and replace every 1-2 years?

            https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...6-e9x/?pdk=BAE
            The answer to your question is "How much are you tracking your car?" and "How much failure risk is acceptable?".

            If someone has a well-documented performance record from MH - please post the links. (Performance record doesn't IMO = "Mine haven't failed yet" or "I pretty much only use them for street".)

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              #36
              since last june, i've gone to the track 16 times and i run apex wheels/studs and had zero issues. i'm probably going to change over to the FCP set and do a full swap annually with their warranty. in 2021, i'll finally be joining in NASA time trials.
              2018 Grigio Telesto F80 M3 DCT | :: Bone Stock ::
              2004 Titanium Silver E46 M3 6 Speed | :: Track Car ::

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                #37
                The endurance racing teams I'm close with have switched to press-in wheel studs. While certainly not failure proof, they are significantly better.

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by jareds941 View Post
                  The endurance racing teams I'm close with have switched to press-in wheel studs. While certainly not failure proof, they are significantly better.
                  Do you have any accounts of a pressed-in stud failing on a BMW?
                  '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
                  Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
                  Email to George@HillPerformance.com

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                    #39
                    Yeah I figured as much, simply a risk tolerance equation.
                    ‘04 M3

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by George Hill View Post

                      Do you have any accounts of a pressed-in stud failing on a BMW?
                      I don’t...I added that line in because as far as I can tell, in racing, “nothing” is fail proof.

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by jareds941 View Post

                        I don’t...I added that line in because as far as I can tell, in racing, “nothing” is fail proof.
                        Ahh far enough. We are about to use the Core4 setup in our shop car and have not heard anyone say anything bad specifically about press-in studs conversions so I am trying to compile as much info good or bad for them.
                        '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
                        Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
                        Email to George@HillPerformance.com

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                          #42
                          Core4 is the first to offer press-in for BMW right? At least they're the only ones I've heard of. The science and engineering behind it seems sound, but I'm also not an engineer and it's technical info posted by Core4 themselves. Need a larger sample size and more time before one can say.
                          '03.5 M3 SMG Coupe - Jet Black / Black

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                            #43
                            I as well switched from Apex to MSI studs after seeing more and more failures online. However, it seems even the MSI studs have failed a few times (especially if you believe everything in the "Broken Stud Gallery" on the Core4Motorsports website).

                            I do 10-15 track days a year, and probably remove/swap wheels on my car easily 50x a year, although I ALWAYS loosen nuts with a breaker bar before removing them with a gun, and only put them on just past hand tight with the gun and torque by hand from there. Never broken a stud in the 6 years I've been running studs and tracking this car. I know the MSI studs are used in Nascar and are designed to be gunned on and off, but since we're really installing them in an application not designed for studs, every extra precaution you can take is a good idea.

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by BBRTuning View Post
                              I as well switched from Apex to MSI studs after seeing more and more failures online. However, it seems even the MSI studs have failed a few times (especially if you believe everything in the "Broken Stud Gallery" on the Core4Motorsports website).

                              I do 10-15 track days a year, and probably remove/swap wheels on my car easily 50x a year, although I ALWAYS loosen nuts with a breaker bar before removing them with a gun, and only put them on just past hand tight with the gun and torque by hand from there. Never broken a stud in the 6 years I've been running studs and tracking this car. I know the MSI studs are used in Nascar and are designed to be gunned on and off, but since we're really installing them in an application not designed for studs, every extra precaution you can take is a good idea.
                              Does removing nuts with an impact gun affect the life of the stud?

                              I would think removing is ok, but tightening is where you run into trouble.

                              I use a 20v impact on high torque to remove nuts, but switch it to low impact to put them on - then follow up with torque wrench. I have never reached target torque with the impact gun on low torque.


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                                #45
                                Originally posted by eacmen View Post

                                Does removing nuts with an impact gun affect the life of the stud?

                                I would think removing is ok, but tightening is where you run into trouble.

                                I use a 20v impact on high torque to remove nuts, but switch it to low impact to put them on - then follow up with torque wrench. I have never reached target torque with the impact gun on low torque.


                                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                                That's a good question and I think you're correct. I use a 60 lb-ft torque stick but I always start them by hand. Gives me enough headroom +/- 60 lb-ft to then just follow up by hand.
                                '03.5 M3 SMG Coupe - Jet Black / Black

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