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Outer Ring Mod for LED Taillights (“Tiger Dave” Mod)

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    DIY: Outer Ring Mod for LED Taillights (“Tiger Dave” Mod)

    Note: The guide in this post is for pre-facelift cars with retrofitted LED taillights. heinzboehmer was awesome enough to put the extra information for facelift cars in this thread as well, reference Posts #6 and #9 in this thread for that.

    Backstory: During a conversation with a fellow forum member today, this modification came up and in the process of gathering information for him, I thought it best to place it on the forum for easy access.

    It is fairly common knowledge that LED taillights can be retrofitted on pre facelift cars through the use of OEM adapter cables, P/N 61120153650. However, the outermost ring of the LED brake lights is rendered inactive, as this was dedicated to “Brake Force Display” on facelift cars, i.e. the outer ring only lights up bright under heavier-than-normal braking. Here’s a comparison between lights with the outer ring active/inactive. It really is a nice aesthetic upgrade and is a very low cost modification.

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    From my understanding, this modification was originally published by Tiger Dave on his website in the early 2000’s. A thread on M3Forum had a link to Tiger Dave’s guide at one point, but by the time I found it, the link was broken, and obviously now so is M3Forum haha. I went digging in the Wayback Machine and found the original guide on a 2007 capture of Tigerdave.com.
    The original guide recommends purchasing a second pair of adapter cables and hacking them up to acquire the proper terminals to fit the connectors for this mod. I managed to find an BMW OEM Part number for a piece of wire with the correct terminal pre-crimped. I paid $6.08 CAD at BMW Victoria, ECS Tuning lists them for $3.08 USD.

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    Disclaimer: None of the photos in this guide are mine, they have been sourced from Tigerdave.com via archive.org and other websites. Much of this guide is taken directly from Tiger Dave, and I have only added/removed bits of info where I felt necessary. This guide was done purely for the knowledge base of this community.

    This how-to guide will show you how to rewire the BMW wire adapters so that the outer LEDs will also light up intensely any time the brakes are applied.

    Parts/Tools you will need:
    • 2 Pre Crimped terminals/wire leads (BMW P/N 61130005197)
    • 2 Quick Connects that work with 22-gauge wire
    • Pliers to use the quick connects
    • Small flathead screwdriver
    • Electrical tape (optional)


    Begin with your two adapter cables. They are labelled left/right.

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    Remove the cover on the end of the adapter that plugs into the taillights. Tiger Dave says this is optional, but I found it necessary to insert the new wire, YMMV.

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    The Connectors are labelled slots 1 through 8, and slot number 4 is empty. This is the slot we will need to trigger the outer LEDs.

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    On the opposite end of the adapter cable, remove about 2 inches of electrical tape to access the individual wires. (I removed all of the original electrical tape and retaped the whole cable when I was finished)

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    Use your quick connect to tap the Black Wire with the Green Stripe, and supply power to your new wire (Yellow/Red in the photo, OEM comes black)

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    Insert the other end of your new wire into slot #4 of the taillight connector.

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    Replace the cover on the taillight connector, and wrap your cable up with electrical tape if you’d like. As I mentioned previously, I removed all of the OE electrical tape as well as the left/right labels, performed the mod, rewrapped the entire cable with new tape, and reapplied the labels. I found this to be the most organized way of doing things.

    Enjoy your taillights! No additional coding has to be done to the LCM for this mod, but don’t forget to code for the LED retrofit if you haven’t done so already.

    I think this mod adds to the rear end aesthetic of the car immensely, especially for something that’s super easy, quick and low cost. Hope this helps someone! Thanks for reading!
    Last edited by Str8f4c3; 12-16-2020, 08:49 AM.

    #2
    That user being me... haha. This is great info thanks for putting it together

    Comment


      #3
      Yessss. Been looking for this for a while, thank you for posting. Should definitely be added to the DIY sticky.

      Comment


        #4
        Glad this made it! Good job
        DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
        /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
        More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

        Comment


          #5
          Great, thanks for taking the time to post that up. I'd like to get my 04' to do the same thing, I'll have to start digging around.
          2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
          Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
          Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

          OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
          RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

          2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
          Instagram

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
            Great, thanks for taking the time to post that up. I'd like to get my 04' to do the same thing, I'll have to start digging around.
            Basically the same exact thing needs to be done for facelift cars. Here's the pinout for the taillights.

            Click image for larger version

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            Facelift cars should have a wire running to the outer ring pin, unlike the prefacelift cars where that pin is blank in the connector. I would just pull that wire out of the connector, add some heat shrink tubing around the pin so it doesn't short against things, and then just follow the instructions in the OP.
            2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

            2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

              Basically the same exact thing needs to be done for facelift cars. Here's the pinout for the taillights.

              Click image for larger version

Name:	fetch?id=587&d=1584734610.jpg
Views:	1346
Size:	49.1 KB
ID:	73635

              Facelift cars should have a wire running to the outer ring pin, unlike the prefacelift cars where that pin is blank in the connector. I would just pull that wire out of the connector, add some heat shrink tubing around the pin so it doesn't short against things, and then just follow the instructions in the OP.
              Very nice, thanks!
              2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
              Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
              Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

              OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
              RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

              2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
              Instagram

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

                Basically the same exact thing needs to be done for facelift cars. Here's the pinout for the taillights.

                Facelift cars should have a wire running to the outer ring pin, unlike the prefacelift cars where that pin is blank in the connector. I would just pull that wire out of the connector, add some heat shrink tubing around the pin so it doesn't short against things, and then just follow the instructions in the OP.
                If we already have that wire to PIN 4, what are we tapping into? Or where does that wire go?
                DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post

                  If we already have that wire to PIN 4, what are we tapping into? Or where does that wire go?
                  Outer ring wire goes to the LCM for the brake force display. LCM triggers the outer ring under hard braking (I forget if that's something that needs to be coded in or is enabled by default). I wouldn't want to raise this line to 12V without the LCM knowing about it because I'm not sure if there's any short protection on the LCM output, so it's just safer to disconnect the existing wire all together. Here's the steps I would take to get this working on a facelift car:
                  1. Disassemble the connector and remove the wire going to the outer ring pin.
                  2. Put heat shrink tubing on the end of it to avoid having it short out against things.
                  3. Get you new pre-pinned wire (61130005197) and insert it into the slot where the outer ring wire used to be.
                  4. Tap/solder the new wire into the wire going to the brake lights pin so that the outer ring and brake lights pin are now electrically connected.
                  5. Make it pretty and put it back together.
                  I avoided using pin numbers because I'm not sure if the slot numbers on the stock facelift harness match the slot numbers on the retrofit harness (the one in the OP). So just reference the image I posted to know which pin/wire is doing what.
                  2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                  2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

                    Outer ring wire goes to the LCM for the brake force display. LCM triggers the outer ring under hard braking (I forget if that's something that needs to be coded in or is enabled by default). I wouldn't want to raise this line to 12V without the LCM knowing about it because I'm not sure if there's any short protection on the LCM output, so it's just safer to disconnect the existing wire all together. Here's the steps I would take to get this working on a facelift car:
                    1. Disassemble the connector and remove the wire going to the outer ring pin.
                    2. Put heat shrink tubing on the end of it to avoid having it short out against things.
                    3. Get you new pre-pinned wire (61130005197) and insert it into the slot where the outer ring wire used to be.
                    4. Tap/solder the new wire into the wire going to the brake lights pin so that the outer ring and brake lights pin are now electrically connected.
                    5. Make it pretty and put it back together.
                    I avoided using pin numbers because I'm not sure if the slot numbers on the stock facelift harness match the slot numbers on the retrofit harness (the one in the OP). So just reference the image I posted to know which pin/wire is doing what.
                    Thanks for adding this! I'll reference it in the original post so people can find it.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

                      Outer ring wire goes to the LCM for the brake force display. LCM triggers the outer ring under hard braking (I forget if that's something that needs to be coded in or is enabled by default). I wouldn't want to raise this line to 12V without the LCM knowing about it because I'm not sure if there's any short protection on the LCM output, so it's just safer to disconnect the existing wire all together. Here's the steps I would take to get this working on a facelift car:
                      1. Disassemble the connector and remove the wire going to the outer ring pin.
                      2. Put heat shrink tubing on the end of it to avoid having it short out against things.
                      3. Get you new pre-pinned wire (61130005197) and insert it into the slot where the outer ring wire used to be.
                      4. Tap/solder the new wire into the wire going to the brake lights pin so that the outer ring and brake lights pin are now electrically connected.
                      5. Make it pretty and put it back together.
                      I avoided using pin numbers because I'm not sure if the slot numbers on the stock facelift harness match the slot numbers on the retrofit harness (the one in the OP). So just reference the image I posted to know which pin/wire is doing what.
                      Thanks! I have the outer ring blink under hard braking (coded) - do you know if that would then be disabled since were constantly powering the outer ring with the rest of the brake lights?
                      DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                      /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                      More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post

                        Thanks! I have the outer ring blink under hard braking (coded) - do you know if that would then be disabled since were constantly powering the outer ring with the rest of the brake lights?
                        I believe that is correct, as the outer ring wire wouldn't be in use anymore (removed from the connector and covered with heatshrink for later if you ever wanted to change back. The LCM won't know any different but there wouldn't be a blink anymore, just constant power under braking.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post

                          Thanks! I have the outer ring blink under hard braking (coded) - do you know if that would then be disabled since were constantly powering the outer ring with the rest of the brake lights?
                          Yup Str8f4c3 is correct. No more brake force display since you're removing the wire that controls that.

                          You could get fancy and design a small circuit that takes the input from both the brake light wire and the outer ring wire and handles the logic for the outer ring LEDs (probably something like turn on the outer ring with the brake lights unless braking hard, in that case use the signal from the LCM outer ring wire).

                          A more elegant solution (imo) would be to get access to the LCM firmware and have it handle everything. Drive the outer ring wire to 12V whenever the brake lights are on and blink it if braking hard.

                          Regardless, both of those options are significantly more complicated than just moving some wires around so I'm going to stick with my answer of "goodbye brake force display" lol.
                          2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                          2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Agreed, I'm just gonna leave it alone. It's cool, but so is BFD triple blink.
                            DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                            /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                            More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Yeah I did this back in 2005.

                              TBH I would not do this if it replaced BFD. I wish had factory BFD.
                              Because BFD is kind of a BFD.
                              6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

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