Exhaust hub timing question

[Cubieman]

I have my Vanos off for a rebuild, I initially put the engine to TDC without the locking pin in place and pulled off the vanos.
I am now going to do the anti-rattle procedure and had to very slightly turn the engine CCW to get the crank locking pin to engage.

I noticed on the beisan instructions it said that the exhaust driver tabs should be level with the floor and mine are not. My tabs are just slightly CCW of being level with the floor. Also the holes on the tops of the sprockets are a bit off from in relation to each other.

The intake sprocket hub hole is basically inline with the camshaft while the exhaust side sprocket hub hole is slightly CCW from it's camshaft.

Someone has been in here before as I see the hub bolts have paint pen markings on them. My question is during the anti-rattle procedure could I/should I make a correction for this? Or should I just put back like I found it?
The adaptations for my vanos generally show the intake as -4.4 and exhaust as -.60.

Sorry in advance for all the questions I may come up with during this but the timing part is making me uncomfortable.

I realize that eyeballing something as "level to the floor" isn't how you are going to set timing etc. but I just feel a bit uncomfortable that mine isn't how it "should" look according to the DIY type of thing.

Edit: Now that I have taken the hubs off I see how it works and realize that maybe the PO just didn't have things set quite right. This is my first time doing work like this so I am a bit nervous.

[sapote]

I have my Vanos off for a rebuild, I initially put the engine to TDC without the locking pin in place and pulled off the vanos.
I am now going to do the anti-rattle procedure and had to very slightly turn the engine CCW to get the crank locking pin to engage.

I noticed on the beisan instructions it said that the exhaust driver tabs should be level with the floor and mine are not. My tabs are just slightly CCW of being level with the floor. Also the holes on the tops of the sprockets are a bit off from in relation to each other.

The intake sprocket hub hole is basically inline with the camshaft while the exhaust side sprocket hub hole is slightly CCW from it's camshaft.

Someone has been in here before as I see the hub bolts have paint pen markings on them. My question is during the anti-rattle procedure could I/should I make a correction for this? Or should I just put back like I found it?
The adaptations for my vanos generally show the intake as -4.4 and exhaust as -.60.

Sorry in advance for all the questions I may come up with during this but the timing part is making me uncomfortable.

I realize that eyeballing something as "level to the floor" isn't how you are going to set timing etc. but I just feel a bit uncomfortable that mine isn't how it "should" look according to the DIY type of thing.

Edit: Now that I have taken the hubs off I see how it works and realize that maybe the PO just didn't have things set quite right. This is my first time doing work like this so I am a bit nervous.

I number my answers correlate to the bolded highlight above.
1) Never turn the crank CCW. IF you have to, then turn it passed the desired location by 20 degrees CCW then turn CW to the location.
2) The hub has 6 posible locations defined by the 6 bolts, and so any positions is fine. The timing is only within the slot and not the orientation of the hub tabs, regardless horizontal or not.
3) and 4) no idea what that means.
5) No, just get the timing correct (defined by the hub bolts at a specific location within the slots).

[Cubieman]

I number my answers correlate to the bolted highlight above.
1) Never turn the crank CCW. IF you have to, then turn it passed the desired location by 20 degrees CCW then turn CW to the location.
2) The hub has 6 posible locations defined by the 6 bolts, and so any positions is fine. The timing is only within the slot and not the orientation of the hub tabs, regardless horizontal or not.
3) and 4) no idea what that means.
5) No, just get the timing correct (defined by the hub bolts at a specific location within the slots).

Thanks for the info, very much appreciated.

[heinzboehmer]

Yeah orientation of the tabs doesn't matter. Those are just there to drive the pump and have nothing to do with the timing.

[jbfrancis3]

I can related to where OP is coming from with trying to determine what matters and what doesn't. One thing in the Beisan instructions that I remember making me pause was the orientation of two side holes; when the tabs are horizontal to the floor, one of the hole faces up. Not sure why that matters but I'm also not sure why Raj calls attention to vertical orientation of the hole.

OP - if you want to be a stickler and fix it, simply move the sprocket one tooth at a time (relative to the chain) until you get the desired position. Someone had removed the sprocket before you. Better yet, just visualize all the relative positions using the photos in the instructions. You'll need to relieve the tensioner to do this, of course.