Anyone have experience with revshift 80A diff bushing? They're a bit harder than OEM and they claim no NVH.
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Originally posted by Slideways View PostDoes anyone have a good amount of experience (particularly someone sensitive to NVH levels on a street car) with the following setup: quiet exhaust or stock, OE diff bushings, and solid subframe bushings?
I was concerned about making the car unpleasant with the solid bushes, but imo there is minimal increase in NVH, and I don't regret it.Last edited by Ianb; 01-05-2021, 03:28 PM.
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Originally posted by Ianb View Post
I have stock exhaust, oe diff bushes with solid subframe mounts and monball rtab, I have noticed any real increase in NVH, I would say I hear a bit more gear noise from the diff, but that is probably because I don't have my rear seat base in at the moment, but even this is slight, also the rear suspension feels slightly firmer and more direct probably due to the inner arms mounts are more solidly located as there is no subframe movement when the outer end of the arm moves with the wheel/ suspension
I was concerned about making the car unpleasant with the solid bushes, but imo there is minimal increase in NVH, and I don't regret it.
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Originally posted by Slideways View PostDoes anyone have a good amount of experience (particularly someone sensitive to NVH levels on a street car) with the following setup: quiet exhaust or stock, OE diff bushings, and solid subframe bushings?
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Originally posted by benzthis View PostI have a quiet exhaust, stock diff bushings and solid subframe bushings and no nvh and I daily my car.you get more nvh from your suspension setup than anything else.i also have dinan monoball rtabs too.
For a solid bushing, is there any need for a set screw so the bushing doesn't move around or work itself out? I noticed that the Team Schirmer solid bushings on the Driftworks V10 build have set screws.
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Originally posted by Slideways View Post
Perfect!
For a solid bushing, is there any need for a set screw so the bushing doesn't move around or work itself out? I noticed that the Team Schirmer solid bushings on the Driftworks V10 build have set screws.
​​​​​​The CMP bushings also have a lip at the bottom, which will prevent the subframe from dropping if for some (unlikely) reason the bushings start to work themselves out. I guess the set screw could potentially keep the bushings from rotating around or keep the subframe move up towards the car. However, given how tightly the bushings pressed in, I'm not concerned with either of those things happening on my car.2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal
2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal
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Originally posted by Slideways View Post
Perfect!
For a solid bushing, is there any need for a set screw so the bushing doesn't move around or work itself out? I noticed that the Team Schirmer solid bushings on the Driftworks V10 build have set screws.
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I was thinking about this as well for the past week. I have the redish plates and hoped to install them next week but I can't find any bushings locally other than OE. I have the limiters for the RTABS but i would still prefer something stiff like powerflex. I don't track the car that much, its more of a garage queen, but Id still like to do it right and not go back.
From what everyone is saying, going 80a or 95a is the way to go with subframe for prevention of any further issues... is that correct?
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Originally posted by pawelgawel View PostI was thinking about this as well for the past week. I have the redish plates and hoped to install them next week but I can't find any bushings locally other than OE. I have the limiters for the RTABS but i would still prefer something stiff like powerflex. I don't track the car that much, its more of a garage queen, but Id still like to do it right and not go back.
From what everyone is saying, going 80a or 95a is the way to go with subframe for prevention of any further issues... is that correct?3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop
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Ok, so considering Im not tracking that often, going with OE bushings would not be that bad.. RTABS are easy to change with time, I can always do those later on.. as for the top, I have the BMW structural foam I planned on using. I know its not same as the brace but Im sure this would be a big help as well.
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Originally posted by pawelgawel View PostI was thinking about this as well for the past week. I have the redish plates and hoped to install them next week but I can't find any bushings locally other than OE. I have the limiters for the RTABS but i would still prefer something stiff like powerflex. I don't track the car that much, its more of a garage queen, but Id still like to do it right and not go back.
From what everyone is saying, going 80a or 95a is the way to go with subframe for prevention of any further issues... is that correct?
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Originally posted by pawelgawel View PostRight now its a shit show with delayed parcels.. I have a box sitting at Detroit border since Dec 21. .. so ordering anything from US is a gamble, won't know when it'll show up.
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Originally posted by timmo View PostDamn that sucks! Are you getting your items shipped directly to you? I've been using Shippsy lately and have had parcels arrive at their location in Niagara around Christmas, they were ready for pickup in the GTA a few days later. Still have to pay duties but it's still much cheaper than paying for shipping directly to my house
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