Intermittent no crank, no start problem is driving me crazy.

[youinreverse]

Hey all, haven't posted much since the M3forum days. I had a build thread on there about this car, but sadly the thread was lost when the old forum went down. I've got a 2000 328i sedan with an S54 swap that I completed about 3-4 years ago. I did all the mechanical and wiring work and I sent the cluster and DME to Kassel to program and delete EWS. It's been running fine for years. In the last month or so I've started to have an intermittent starting issue. It started with the key not doing anything. After a couple more attempts to turn the key, it would finally start in the times where it wouldn't start there would be no noise from the starter, and the only noise would be the fuel pump when the key was turned. This happened a few times but I could always get the car started with a few cycles of the key. Then I ran to the store a few weeks ago and the car would not start at all when I came back. I tried the key 15+ times and nothing happened. I called my brother and he came over with a few tools. We tried tapping the starter and still couldn't get it to start. We ended up bump starting it and I drove it home.

The next few days it started up first try, and then I'd get a day where it wouldn't start at all and I'd need to bump start it. I heard the solenoid on the starter can go out, so I checked the starter. You can jump the starter and it starts the car fine. I replaced the clutch switch to no avail. I found a forum post where someone was having my exact intermittent issues and what fixed it for him was replacing the bolt down 50 amp breaker fuses for the starter which are located behind the fuse block in the glove box. I replaced those two days ago and my car was starting up every time, until this morning. Now it won't start at all today. I used my Schwaben scan tool on it and looked at live data for the EWS. Nothing was blocking the starter from starting, but two things that caught my eye were "key identification: ok", "key password: not ok" and "key random code: not ok".

I've got two keys for the car. One that came with the car when I bought it in 2014, and one that I bought from my local dealer within the first year of my ownership. Both will lock and unlock the car fine, but neither one will start the car right now. The original key that came with the car comes up on the scan tool as key #1, and the replacement I bought comes up as #5. both keys come up with "key identification: ok", "key password: not ok" and "key random code: not ok" on the scan tool when I'm trying to start the car with them.

Sorry for the rambling mess. I'm kind of at my wits end at the moment and I'm hoping someone else has some helpful things to check.

Thanks,

Jared

[Rosie]

Sounds like you have an EWS issue.
Try bridging pins 1 & 2 at the EWS control unit.

[R1pilot]

If you bump started it then its not the ews.

Its probably a bad starter. When mune went bad it would do exactly the same.

Total pain in the ass to change.

[sapote]

If you bump started it then its not the ews.

If the EWS relay is bad then pin1 has no voltage to run the starter, so pin1 needs to be checked with key turned to start.

[antknee]

Do you know what the part number on the clutch switch was? I put the wrong one in when i had a similar issue and the part number that realoem had on their site and the one ecs and fcp said fit my car but didn’t. Found the correct switch thanks to my buddy who did a bunch of smg swaps (mine isn’t) and confirmed it was wrong and provided me the correct one

[sapote]

Do you know what the part number on the clutch switch was? I put the wrong one in when i had a similar issue and the part number that realoem had on their site and the one ecs and fcp said fit my car but didn’t. Found the correct switch thanks to my buddy who did a bunch of smg swaps (mine isn’t) and confirmed it was wrong and provided me the correct one

But his problem is intermittent and so it's not a wrong part.

[antknee]

But his problem is intermittent and so it's not a wrong part.

for some reason my issue was intermittent as well. No cel or stored code with my autel basic reader, but did with my peake . Prob a diff issue though

[Maxima SE]

went through the same thing.... ended up being the start. id recommend putting in a new valeo unit from FCP

[ejendow]

I had a similar issue after my 6MT conversion and the problem was linked to the clutch switch I used. I ultimately coded out the clutch-to-start feature and haven't had the issue since. But, I see that you have the EWS deleted so that may not help in your case.

[flgman1966]

Just curious if there was ever a resolution to this problem. I have a 2002 M3, with SMG. I have a similar intermittent start problem. I replaced starter. I replaced all throttle position sensors. I noticed in the first post there was a mention of a noise from the fuel pump. I have gotten in the habit of turning key to last position before start. I let everything activate. I can hear many things initiating. I wait until there is no noise. I then turn and hold to start.......I get a short buzz when it won't start. Again this is very random. I can't drive the car though for fear if being stranded. I test start it in my driveway. Usually when I have a no start condition I need to wait a few days, then I will get a start. I might even get 2 or 3 back to back, but eventually, no start, just a buzz.

[Arith2]

Just curious if there was ever a resolution to this problem. I have a 2002 M3, with SMG. I have a similar intermittent start problem. I replaced starter. I replaced all throttle position sensors. I noticed in the first post there was a mention of a noise from the fuel pump. I have gotten in the habit of turning key to last position before start. I let everything activate. I can hear many things initiating. I wait until there is no noise. I then turn and hold to start.......I get a short buzz when it won't start. Again this is very random. I can't drive the car though for fear if being stranded. I test start it in my driveway. Usually when I have a no start condition I need to wait a few days, then I will get a start. I might even get 2 or 3 back to back, but eventually, no start, just a buzz.

Check the codes. I just had to replace a cluster because of this issue. My gateway crapped out which freaked out the EWS. This caused the EWS module to also take a dump but I just deleted that. There are quite a few issues that can cause this. For OP, I would watch the key number and terminal its registering during start. Key related codes aren't caused by a bad starter.

[sapote]

.I get a short buzz when it won't start..

Interesting, the buzz means the starter solenoid was energized but couldn't connect the starter gigantic contact. I still think you should check EWS pin1 and see if it have 12v when turned to start. Also measure batt voltage -- not the posts but on the cables terminals -- when it failed to start.

[fussychicken]

Just curious if there was ever a resolution to this problem. I have a 2002 M3, with SMG. I have a similar intermittent start problem. I replaced starter. I replaced all throttle position sensors. I noticed in the first post there was a mention of a noise from the fuel pump. I have gotten in the habit of turning key to last position before start. I let everything activate. I can hear many things initiating. I wait until there is no noise. I then turn and hold to start.......I get a short buzz when it won't start. Again this is very random. I can't drive the car though for fear if being stranded. I test start it in my driveway. Usually when I have a no start condition I need to wait a few days, then I will get a start. I might even get 2 or 3 back to back, but eventually, no start, just a buzz.

I had a similar problem 8 years ago on mine, and despite many comments about starter, my issue turned out to be the fuel pump. Just to clarify though, mine was an intermittent *start* issue. Not an intermittent *crank* issue. The car would crank fine, but not start.

I forget exactly how I diagnosed this, but recall a similar thing where I couldn't hear the pump. It was an easy fix, pop the back seat and screw in a new one. Pump was around $300 at the time.

[flgman1966]

Thank you for the input. Yes, mine is intermittent no crank. Every crank results in a start. The buzz does sound like something is initiating but just can't fully complete the process. Just FYI, I replaced the starter because when it would crank it would occasionally spin without fully engaging the flywheel. Kind of a grind to a free spin. Brand new starter now though. I have read that battery issues are big. Battery has been kept charged and issue remains. By the way, I have INPA and BMW Scanner tools.

[flgman1966]

I am still tinkering with this. Still intent on checking EWS. Hopefully tomorrow. However, today found that if I hold the key and slowly pump the brake pedal the car will make the same "buzz" sounds. Understand that I use the term " buzz" loosely. Well, after about 6 pumps and buzzes the car turned over and started. This happened to me one before, but on first pump. When I tried again it didn't work on first pump. So I moved on. Today I found it interesting that that sounds emitted every time I pressed on the brake pedal, so I just continued. Eventually a crank, and a start. Gives me some optimism that I am getting close. If this new scenario means anything to anyone I would love to hear from you. Thank you!!!