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    SSv1 Headers Rattle

    I recently installed some SSv1 headers and noticed that the top of the joint between the header and SS slip-on section 1 are basically touching the heat shield and do rattle on start. Has anyone found a fix to this such as removing the heat shield there and replacing it with foil tape or
    anything similar?
    Last edited by Sid_E46; 03-12-2021, 09:54 PM.
    2003.5 E46 M3 Silver Grey/Cinnamon

    MCS - Vorshlag - GC - Hotchkis - Supersprint - BBS - Brembo - Dinan - PSMax - SDW - VinceBar - DMG - Haimus - Karbonius - AEM

    http://www.instagram.com/sid_e46/
    Journal: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...grey-speed-run

    #2
    BFH
    2004 BMW ///M3 Carbon Black/Cinnamon 6MT
    2005 BMW ///M3
    Interlagos Blue/Black 6MT Dinan S3-R

    2008 BMW ///M3 Alpine White/Bamboo/6MT Track Build
    2000 BMW ///M5 Royal Red/Extended Caramel 6MT
    2004 BMW X5 Toledo Blue/Sand Beige 6MT
    2023 Toyota Supra //A91-MT CULG/Hazelnut 6MT


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      #3
      Not fun, but loosen header nuts and pull outlet pipe ends down. Maybe stuff a towel or something in there and re tighten.

      For fast and dirty, use a flathead and pry/push the heatshield up, the fulcrum being the pipe. Might be enough. Mine are a tight fit, but not touching anything. Maybe 3/16" gap to the shield.
      DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
      /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
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        #4
        Which heat shield? Although I have euro headers, I had contact above the FCAB. I just used a screw driver to bend/pry the heat shield out of the way a little.

        2005 ///M3 6MT Coupe Imola/M-Texture



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          #5
          Header to block nuts is sadly the best approach, for whatever header (so also the euro header car above). There’s a range of positions they can bolt in by the slop in the holes.

          ... but if you’re doing it after you’ve heat cycled the headers, I’d want to replace the gaskets. And if you’re replacing the gaskets, you should replace the nuts.

          2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
          2012 LMB/Black 128i
          2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan

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            #6
            Originally posted by Obioban View Post
            Header to block nuts is sadly the best approach, for whatever header (so also the euro header car above). There’s a range of positions they can bolt in by the slop in the holes.

            ... but if you’re doing it after you’ve heat cycled the headers, I’d want to replace the gaskets. And if you’re replacing the gaskets, you should replace the nuts.
            I didn’t think about that, but it makes sense. Luckily it was barely interfering with the head shield. I’m a perfectionist, but I’m okay with a minor heat shield bend if it means I don’t have to spend hours on the headers.
            2005 ///M3 6MT Coupe Imola/M-Texture



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              #7
              Damn, I really don't want to loosen those header nuts again. Guess I'll try prying at it first.
              2003.5 E46 M3 Silver Grey/Cinnamon

              MCS - Vorshlag - GC - Hotchkis - Supersprint - BBS - Brembo - Dinan - PSMax - SDW - VinceBar - DMG - Haimus - Karbonius - AEM

              http://www.instagram.com/sid_e46/
              Journal: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...grey-speed-run

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