SS Full Stepped Headers and SS Sect 1 Install Questions

[Flat-Six]

Just received my SS Headers (Full Stepped) and SS Sect1. When installing the headers, do I need to install longer studs or will the current factory studs work? I was thinking of just ordering the Header Hardware and Gasket kit from Turner as opposed to just gaskets. I have plenty of new Wurth copper exhaust nuts with flange.

Anything else that I should be aware of other then making sure I have the heat shield clearance under the car adjusted/held in place before tightening the header nuts.

tim

[nagholdoian]

Someone can correct my but I'm pretty sure you'll want to use E36 M3 header studs as their longer (which I think that's what the Turner kit has?). When I installed mine without the extended studs the stud barely protrudes out of the nut. I'd recommend you get the extended studs and new copper nuts as those are a limited use lock nut type and you'll have plenty of threads showing for proper engagement.


Dont know about anyone else's experience but I found the O2 sensors to be a PITA to install. The wire length was barely long enough so I had to relieve it and not use some of the wire tie downs upstream

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[nagholdoian]

I should also say that I havent had any issues with the nuts backing off (I painted marked them and have looked at them periodically), but if I had to do it over again I'd use the longer ones for peace of mind

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[Tbonem3]

Stock studs will be fine, but if you wanted to go to the painstaking work of replacing them, while 36 studs are longer, the e9x (n55 I think?) studs are longer too, but have a torx head for easy install.

I've done numerous header jobs, including ebay headers with thick flanges, and have never replaced studs.

[Flat-Six]

I have a stud removal and installation toolset. But I definitely don’t want to replace them if I don’t need to. There is always the risk of one breaking then it really gets fun.

[ASAed330]

Do not need to replace with longer studs. I only had to replace longer studs for EPIC headers. Save yourself the time and just install the SSV1 headers on the current stock S54 header studs.

[Cubieman]

Yea, be VERY careful installing new studs. My buddy crossthreaded one of the torx studs when I did the SSv1s. I had to have the car towed and they were able to extract and re-tap the hole saving the factory threads ($900 all in).
I had installed the extended torx studs on my previous euro header install knowing SSv1s where in the future.
IF you change studs make sure to use anti-seize, and good luck finding a 7mm thread chaser, lol. The longer studs are not necessary and if you use the torx style which are even longer, there is one nut (cyl. 5 I think) that will not go on the threads until you sand down the collar around the nut. The collar of the nut runs into the header before thread engagement.

[Sharocks]

I went with N54 studs because they're longer and easier to install.

[Flat-Six]

If the studs look good, and I see no reason why they should not, I'll leave them alone. I just did not know if I needed longer studs, and it appears from the responses that I do not! Thanks for all the replies. I have a few other projects in line first, but I hope to get them installed early next month.

[jbfrancis3]

The longer studs are needed for headers with thick flanges. The SS V1's don't fit into that category so you'll be fine. There's no advantage to you to change out

[Tbonem3]

I will say though, my SSv1s' flanges aren't THAT thin, but they just make it and I've never had a nut come loose even after several swaps to stock and back (even when the stud isn't protruding much at all of out the nut). My fabspeeds I just snagged are slightly thinner actually.

[Sid_E46]

I replaced my studs with N54 studs even though it wasn't necessary. I would replace the ones that come out with the nut with n54 studs and leave the rest since SSv1s don't require longer studs.

[Obioban]

I should also say that I havent had any issues with the nuts backing off (I painted marked them and have looked at them periodically), but if I had to do it over again I'd use the longer ones for peace of mind

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The nuts are one time use— did you reuse them?

[Cubieman]

FWIW, you can forget the use of anything but a regular 11mm wrench for the vast majority of the nuts. The euro headers have so much space around them to get a rachet etc. in there but with the supersprints it is much tighter, even more awkward angles and such.

[Circa Surviven]

Yea, be VERY careful installing new studs. My buddy crossthreaded one of the torx studs when I did the SSv1s. I had to have the car towed and they were able to extract and re-tap the hole saving the factory threads ($900 all in).
I had installed the extended torx studs on my previous euro header install knowing SSv1s where in the future.
IF you change studs make sure to use anti-seize, and good luck finding a 7mm thread chaser, lol. The longer studs are not necessary and if you use the torx style which are even longer, there is one nut (cyl. 5 I think) that will not go on the threads until you sand down the collar around the nut. The collar of the nut runs into the header before thread engagement.

I'm sorry that happened to you. Thank you for sharing that though, as now myself and others doing this for the first time will know to be careful if replacing the studs is necessary. I know you said it was a buddy, but I've almost cross threaded my radiator fan on the water pump and panicked before, so I know its not a good feeling.