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SS Full Stepped Headers and SS Sect 1 Install Questions

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    #16
    OP if you are retaining the EGT sensor it’s much easier to install while the headers are loose on the studs.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
      FWIW, you can forget the use of anything but a regular 11mm wrench for the vast majority of the nuts. The euro headers have so much space around them to get a rachet etc. in there but with the supersprints it is much tighter, even more awkward angles and such.
      11mm flex and ratcheting wrench was invaluable for me, along with a quarter inch flex ratchet. It’s pretty easy with those two tools. Just make sure you actually tighten everything down enough so you don’t end up pulling it all apart again after discovering a leak like me.

      Unrelated but I personally found it worthwhile to swap my O2 sensor wiring harness over to the Euro version if you’re retaining cats. Makes everything fit neatly with no need to modify wiring looms. I think that part has blown up in price though last I saw.
      Last edited by repoman89; 03-20-2021, 12:19 PM.

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        #18
        Originally posted by repoman89 View Post

        11mm flex and ratcheting wrench was invaluable for me, along with a quarter inch flex ratchet. It’s pretty easy with those two tools. Just make sure you actually tighten everything down enough so you don’t end up pulling it all apart again after discovering a leak like me.
        Also, a Milwaukee electric ratchet is worth its weight in gold for header jobs.
        2003.5 E46 M3 Silver Grey/Cinnamon

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          #19
          Originally posted by repoman89 View Post

          11mm flex and ratcheting wrench was invaluable for me, along with a quarter inch flex ratchet. It’s pretty easy with those two tools. Just make sure you actually tighten everything down enough so you don’t end up pulling it all apart again after discovering a leak like me.

          Unrelated but I personally found it worthwhile to swap my O2 sensor wiring harness over to the Euro version if you’re retaining cats. Makes everything fit neatly with no need to modify wiring looms. I think that part has blown up in price though last I saw.
          I wish I would have done that as opposed to slicing my factory harness up, didnt know that could be swapped at the time.
          2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
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          RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

          2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
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            #20
            Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

            I wish I would have done that as opposed to slicing my factory harness up, didnt know that could be swapped at the time.
            There’s still time lol. I did it that way at first too and my automotive OCD had me ripping it out after a year or two. Requires one new post-cat O2 sensor btw ... very expensive through BMW but $50 Bosch generic through a Latvian eBay seller at the time at least.

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              #21
              I am not running cats, using the non cat SS Sect one that goes with the Stepped Headers. So far I have the following advice:
              Leave Header nuts loose while doing (1) and (2) then tighten: 1) Adjust and position downpipes away from heat shields and 2) Thread the EGR fitting in place

              I have plenty of Flex head ratchets and Flex head straight/curve/ and "S" shaped ratcheting wrenches from working on 911/930 headers.

              Let me ask this, without sounding to ignorant, as I have not looked at the current exhaust up front so I have no idea how it's configured with regards to O2 and EGR. I have two ports on each header, about 6" apart IIRC, then I have one port at the end of each sect 1 "S" pipe just before the flange where it connects to Sect2, and then the left "S" pipe has another port midway. Since I am not running cats, and I am going to load the Turner "Shark" tune to handle the CEL's due to no cats, can I just run all four O2's in the header, then I assume the mid port on the left pipe would be for the egr, then just plug both ports at the rear of the "S" pipes?
              Again, I am sorry, but I did not pay much attention to the O2/EGR configuration that's on the car now.

              I'd really like to have a pretty good idea what I need to do before I start the install.

              BTW, I really appreciate all of the responses and suggestions.
              Last edited by Flat-Six; 03-20-2021, 06:29 PM.

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                #22
                Update. Finished the install. Much easier then expected from looking at the working space. V1's were actually quite easy to install using a combination of the following: (all 1/4): Flex Head Ratchet, Wobble Ext, Universal Socket, Reg Socket, Boxed wrench. I left the rear O2's off, and installed the Pre O2's and EGT after headers were fitted, but not torqued. I also put a small block of 1x2 in between the header collector and the control arm bushing to maintain clearance prior to torquing, which actually worked out nicely with sufficient clearance. I did not replace the studs, used new nuts and OE gaskets.

                SSV1, NonCat "S" pipes, stock sect2, SS sport Sect3: There is a bit of RASP, but I really don't care, as that appears to be the engines natural characteristic with increasing flow. I'll prob pick up a SS Race and see how that works, as I like hearing the engine (intake and exhaust). If I want quiet and music, I drive one of the Land Rovers.

                Overall, very pleased with the ease of installation, fitment, sound, performance. SS is a nice product.

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                  #23
                  I had the exact same setup. I would say there's tons of droney rasp, and I loved it! I agree it has a real mechanical sound that seems a natural characteristic of the engine.

                  Catless stepped 2.5" sys is a little more potent than what you had before huh?
                  DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                  /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
                    I had the exact same setup. I would say there's tons of droney rasp, and I loved it! I agree it has a real mechanical sound that seems a natural characteristic of the engine.

                    Catless stepped 2.5" sys is a little more potent than what you had before huh?
                    yes it is!

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by repoman89 View Post

                      11mm flex and ratcheting wrench was invaluable for me, along with a quarter inch flex ratchet. It’s pretty easy with those two tools. Just make sure you actually tighten everything down enough so you don’t end up pulling it all apart again after discovering a leak like me.

                      Unrelated but I personally found it worthwhile to swap my O2 sensor wiring harness over to the Euro version if you’re retaining cats. Makes everything fit neatly with no need to modify wiring looms. I think that part has blown up in price though last I saw.
                      Any chance you have the part number for that harness and the post cat O2 you mentioned?

                      I just got my V1 stepped headers, catted section one, and twin tube section two from the group buy and I want to have everything on hand before starting.

                      Thanks,
                      D-O
                      Last edited by D-O; 09-03-2021, 09:50 AM.
                      Old, not obsolete.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by D-O View Post

                        Any chance you have the part number for that harness and the post cat O2 you mentioned?

                        I just got my V1 stepped headers, catted section one, and twin tube section two from the group buy and I want to have everything on hand before starting.

                        Thanks,
                        D-O
                        12517835524

                        I would no longer recommend this route at the current $600 price. It was $200 back in the day which was worth it to me. Just unwrap the existing loom and clean it up with cloth tape as best as you can.

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                          #27
                          $600 would be tough to justify. Thanks.

                          Anything else you recommend for the job?

                          Jesse
                          Old, not obsolete.

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