Chase Bays Fluid Relocation Tanks

[Jersey_M3]

Has anyone used either of these items? They seem to be a decent way of relocating some weight from over the front axel. Any reviews or suggestions would be appreciated. Im more concerned about the coolant overflow as ours in the M3 is actually pretty solid.

1. https://www.chasebays.com/collection...cooler-sprayer
2. https://www.chasebays.com/collection...olant-overflow

[STAATS]

I replaced my windscreen washer tank with the Chase Bays part so I could put it in the old SAP location and have more room for brake cooling ducts. It works fine. Get about 3 washes out of it before it empties so perfectly usable for me. The pump pressure is slightly lower than original so the jet isn't as aggressive. Apparently you can reduce the hose sizes near the nozzles to help increase the pressure again but I've never bothered.

[Jersey_M3]

I replaced my windscreen washer tank with the Chase Bays part so I could put it in the old SAP location and have more room for brake cooling ducts. It works fine. Get about 3 washes out of it before it empties so perfectly usable for me. The pump pressure is slightly lower than original so the jet isn't as aggressive. Apparently you can reduce the hose sizes near the nozzles to help increase the pressure again but I've never bothered.

Did it come with everything needed to relocate or did you need to source parts yourself

[STAATS]

Did it come with everything needed to relocate or did you need to source parts yourself

It is just the tank and pump with a flying lead. Oh and there is also like 6 mounts you can pick to come with it... but in general you need to figure out the mount yourself, their mounts are just generic.

[shreyas]

I replaced my windscreen washer tank with the Chase Bays part so I could put it in the old SAP location and have more room for brake cooling ducts.

This is pretty old but do you have a picture of this? Looking to do the same thing for brake ducts and the SAP location seems pretty convenient.

[Altaran]

I would not recommend using a metal coolant overflow tank. The OE plastic piece is a perfect weak point in the system, so when there's too much overpressure for the overflow valve to clear it blows. A metal unit will not break, so something else that will be located closer to the engine will, maybe even a gasket.

For a windshield washer reservoir, just use the E39 high intensity tank, it fits perfectly in the drug bin, weighs less than a metal part, and costs less.

So buying expensive aftermarket is a waste of money imho.

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[shreyas]

For a windshield washer reservoir, just use the E39 high intensity tank, it fits perfectly in the drug bin, weighs less than a metal part, and costs less.

I’ve heard about this but how do you go about mounting it? Needs a custom bracket? I’ve seen the Brey Krause mount for the drug bin that works with the e36 washer tank but not sure about this.

[Altaran]

I've heard about this but how do you go about mounting it? Needs a custom bracket? I've seen the Brey Krause mount for the drug bin that works with the e36 washer tank but not sure about this.

Here is a picture of mine mounted together with a lightweight battery.

It's not difficult to do. I ordered a small carbon fiber plate about 3mm thick. I made some measurements and cut it to fit in.
There are 3 mounts in the chassis with a thread already in, so just drill the holes in the plate and voilà, a plain surface.
I then drilled the holes to mount the battery and two holes for the tank. In each hole goes a rivet nut.
To be able to mount the tank on the upper hole I ordered a nylon cylinder. On the bottom I drilled a hole and cut in a thread so I can tap in a screw from the underside of the plate. On the top I cut it to height at an angle matching the tank mount and connected both with a small sheet metal plate.

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[shreyas]

Oh that looks super nice thanks for the details. I’ll probably end up going this route. Ducts actually fit with the original washer tank still in place but I rarely ever use it so this seems like a good idea.

[Altaran]

I found this old picture of my car before I did the MK60 conversion.
So the E39 high intensity tank also fits the drug bin alongside the MK20 ABS block if anyone with an MK20 vehicle is interested in this.

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[0-60motorsports]

I found this old picture of my car before I did the MK60 conversion.
So the E39 high intensity tank also fits the drug bin alongside the MK20 ABS block if anyone with an MK20 vehicle is interested in this.

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I would love to do this on my car but i think i dont have any space in the Bin with the SMG pump and OCC

[bigjae46]

I would not recommend using a metal coolant overflow tank. The OE plastic piece is a perfect weak point in the system, so when there's too much overpressure for the overflow valve to clear it blows. A metal unit will not break, so something else that will be located closer to the engine will, maybe even a gasket.

I don't agree. Wouldn't you want to keep the pressure in the coolant system? Once the pressure is lost the boiling point drops, coolant turns to gas and then the engine overheats uncontrollably. The water pump is a centrifugal pump and doesn't pump air so the coolant system stops circulating. At that point, one would be lucky to only need to replace the head gasket.

Not sure where the pressure would come from in the coolant system unless it is from combustion pressure. The water pump is self-regulating unlike a positive displacement pump which will keep building pressure.

Using a metal expansion tank with a high pressure cap allows for a margin of error - for example, track car with no fan (like me ) and the car shuts off for some reason or the drive belt shreds. The high pressure cap increases the boiling point and can prevent a boilover.

Realistically in a street driven car, a plastic tank is fine. It's lasted this long! And the M3 doesn't have the exploding expansion tank issue the non-M's have.

[CrookedCommie]

The cap should relieve pressure at 2 bar. I wouldn't run a closed overflow setup.

[Altaran]

I don't agree. Wouldn't you want to keep the pressure in the coolant system? Once the pressure is lost the boiling point drops, coolant turns to gas and then the engine overheats uncontrollably. The water pump is a centrifugal pump and doesn't pump air so the coolant system stops circulating. At that point, one would be lucky to only need to replace the head gasket.

Not sure where the pressure would come from in the coolant system unless it is from combustion pressure. The water pump is self-regulating unlike a positive displacement pump which will keep building pressure.

Using a metal expansion tank with a high pressure cap allows for a margin of error - for example, track car with no fan (like me ) and the car shuts off for some reason or the drive belt shreds. The high pressure cap increases the boiling point and can prevent a boilover.

Realistically in a street driven car, a plastic tank is fine. It's lasted this long! And the M3 doesn't have the exploding expansion tank issue the non-M's have.

We're not talking about having zero pressure, but the water system is not designed to run at 2+ bar, it's cooling not lubrication. The pump is designed for flow rate, not high pressure. The higher the pressure, the lower the flow rate, the less flow rate the less heat exchange.
I'm running a stock radiator on a performance built engine and my coolant doesn't reach boiling on a summer track day. So I don't get the point of increasing pressure in the cooling system.

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[bigjae46]

We're not talking about having zero pressure, but the water system is not designed to run at 2+ bar, it's cooling not lubrication. The pump is designed for flow rate, not high pressure. The higher the pressure, the lower the flow rate, the less flow rate the less heat exchange.
I'm running a stock radiator on a performance built engine and my coolant doesn't reach boiling on a summer track day. So I don't get the point of increasing pressure in the cooling system.

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The radiator has a pressure relief cap so the system won't run over 2 bar. Increasing the pressure increases the boiling point of a fluid. Atmospheric pressure, water boils at 212F. At 2 bar, the boiling point is raised to 249F. The goal is to prevent the water from boiling.

Bernoulli's principle applies to a pump in that it must have a pressure differential to flow to mechanically increase the velocity of the fluid. While you are correct about bernoulli's principle, coolant is an non-compressible fluid. It does not apply the same way as it does to aerodynamics.

A centrifugal pump must have head pressure or it won't pump which is why the coolant returns to the t-stat on top of the water pump's suction chamber. If the pressure was reduced below ambient the pump would cavitate and damage the impeller - which is what causes the impellers to disintegrate. You'd have to look at the pump curve but I think it is reasonable to assume that the OE pump had pump above 2 bar. Fitting a higher pressure cap will allow for a higher max system pressure and an higher boiling point.

If you wanted to increase the reliability of the coolant system you'd better regulate the head pressure into the water pump to eliminate cavitation.