Audio; HK out —-> Focal in?

[JeremyJames]

My HKs are about shot. It’s been a while since I’ve dabbled in the 12v audio world, but from my days, Focals were the best sound as far as quality goes.

I have zero interest in big time bass and simply just want pure crystal clear quality. A lot of genres in my realm of music.

Is Focal still the way to go? I truly enjoy the stock interior of my imola and would love to keep the OEM business radio but I’m not sure she will push out enough, even with an amp. I will 100% replace the business radio if that’s the only way to achieve the quality I am looking for.

I am reaching out today for any advice on your set ups, dos + donts, etc. Your input is greatly appreciated!

[Tbonem3]

Focal is great. I like CDT. There's Hertz too.

You can keep your headunit, but you'll need an amp (or 2) and an eq if you want great sound. You can skip the eq if you get an amp with hi level inputs for stock signal (vs RCAs). I'm replacing my h/u for sound reasons and being able to play large wav files off a thumbdrive, eq built in.

I would only get bav speakers or simple replacement if you aren't willing to amp them. As for amp, stick with class A/B if you want crystal clear sound, not D.

I'm ditching the little 3" midrange and deleting rear speakers. Though I am putting a 10" sub in the trunk.

[Icecream]

I don't know the details of the base system (since I had nav w/hk) but I don't see why the stock head unit couldn't drive a nice amp properly especially if it has an HK amp already, (but if you meant would the stock amp push aftermarket speakers well then no it will not). On mine I deleted all the speakers and added a small 10" sub in the back and components up front (just two speakers and two tweeters) and really that is all you need. Ditch the rest, lose some weight and keep it simple. I went with some 6.5" components. If you don't need crazy bass, that might be enough for you without a sub especially if you get a higher end 6.5 and (get ready to cringe) either mount them directly to the door or just make a hole in the sheet metal behind the speaker(cringing yet?). You can just mount them in the stock location but just throwing out a well known method to get better sound from less. Pop in a nice 2 channel amp in the back and you are done. With the money you save not buying 20 useless speakers to sprinkle around the interior you will have plenty to spend on high quality stuff, win-win. I don't think you could go wrong with focal or hertz.

[Kcalhoun27]

So, the stock hu cant do much alone, but there are a few ways to go here.
first, you can get a technic harness, and then tap into the factory harness and run an amp off that from the low input/hi output of the amp. Its not too terrible, just tedious wire chasing. Sounds ok, but thats just the start (this is what i have now, and intend to run preamps because i replaced the hu with a avant 4)
second, replace the factory hu and run pre-amps. Lose the factory feel, but there are various solutions in this category, some better than others

that part is your choice and doesnt impact the next part, but if you dont do the next part, youre better off just going bavsound

build rings to hold speakers to the actual doors vs just in the door cover. Quite a bit of work and fine fitting. Takes tools, time and attention. But, you will have actual base response and much better sound. It will make the trouble of running the amp wiring actually worth it for you

lastly, install a sub. Your choice here. I have a slim sub in a downward firing box behind my seat. I dont carry passengers so it does not affect me. If you do, the trunk will hold it just fine, and itll be closer to the amp as well

good luck, and try to enjoy the job

[Kcalhoun27]

Oh also, focal is still great. They make amazing bookshelf speakers as well. They are the pride and joy of my home stereo

[Icecream]

Oh also, focal is still great. They make amazing bookshelf speakers as well. They are the pride and joy of my home stereo

I think I will have to go with them myself, one of the few (seems like only) companies that isn't made in China.
Also for the Class D comment above, I really don't think that is a big deal anymore (especially in a noisy car like the M3). Focal sells both and you'll probably end up with a smaller (easier to mount) and cooler amp in the process.

[Tbonem3]

I absolutely can tell the difference between class ab and d. Now, I listen to highest quality files an
on high quality components, so ymmv.

If I love music, and am gonna go to the trouble of a custom install, I'm not going to handicap it to save a little money or space. Class abs, even 4 ch aren't that big anymore anyway. Heat isn't an issue either.

If you don't care that much & are going to play music off your iphone anyway, than this wouldn't apply.

Opie said he wanted crystal clear sound. Class d colors the sound fuzzy.

[JeremyJames]

Focal is great. I like CDT. There's Hertz too.

You can keep your headunit, but you'll need an amp (or 2) and an eq if you want great sound. You can skip the eq if you get an amp with hi level inputs for stock signal (vs RCAs). I'm replacing my h/u for sound reasons and being able to play large wav files off a thumbdrive, eq built in.

I would only get bav speakers or simple replacement if you aren't willing to amp them. As for amp, stick with class A/B if you want crystal clear sound, not D.

I'm ditching the little 3" midrange and deleting rear speakers. Though I am putting a 10" sub in the trunk.

What will your final set up look like when complete? Are you just running 6.5 2way fronts, amp, 10” sub and swapping out HU?

[Icecream]

I enjoy hifi myself. I was only pointing out that class D might be a fine solution here. Between road noise, file quality and head unit limitations I would bet the difference would be minimal if not non existant.

[Tbonem3]

I'm running massive 6.7" cdt hd6 with oversized 1.1" silk tweeters. One 10" dvc. On 4ch ppi class a/b 400w.

The hd-6 can play very low, but I'll cross at 80hz since I'm running a sub, 65hz if I weren't. Its carbon treated paper cone plays flat all the way to 5k so I can cross high (which I like). 4.3khz. Kick drums all the way up to vocals/electric guitars both play with authority due to the size and construction of the hd-6. The most perfect stereo would be just one speaker, but that's physically impossible. This is as close as that gets.

I cannot overstate what monsters these are. $99 a pair (open box or display set) https://www.cdtaudio.com/shop/ to boot.

[D-O]

My speakers are mounted along the lines icecream suggested. The tweeter mounted right into the stock location.

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/58337-what-is-the-best-radio/page6#post84195

[oceansize]

You can send your stock radio to these guys for an amp upgrade. While I haven't personally used them they seem to be well regarded.

http://www.carphonics.co.uk/cd54upgrades.htm

[Sid_E46]

I mounted a gen 1 Basslink on top of my battery cover. Used quick disconnects for the wiring so I can have it out in about 30 seconds and it doesn't take much trunk space at all. The lows are drastically better now and I probably don't even need the 2 HK deck subs anymore.

[usdmej]

I'm running massive 6.7" cdt hd6 with oversized 1.1" silk tweeters. One 10" dvc. On 4ch ppi class a/b 400w.

that's a pretty interesting way of mounting the speaker to the door panel. i tried to fit some focals to my car and after a lot of cutting i gave up and bolted on some slimmer alpines

[Tbonem3]

Ya, it barely fit! I put down 3 globs of epoxy, that gives me a good 3/8" for the screws to bite into. The clay also holds the speaker well and dampens vibrations perfectly.