What is this and should it be hot?

[Thonas]

You may want to put a battery tender or charger on your battery so you’d don’t have a surprise when you’re ready to fire up.

Thanks, great minds.... I have a CTEK charger connected.

[old///MFanatic]

My car had been sitting for a week, no key or even opened door. I was performing a spark plug change and removing a defective Turner CSL air box to ship back. I was moving around the oil dipstick and my hand touched the smaller of the cylinders and it was as hot as you would expect it to be if the car was running. Since I don’t drive this car if the temps are below 40, I think I will swap to the single unit.

It can also be a IHKA heater control panel issue. I think a resistor goes out and constantly grounds and sends to unit. Valve changing does not fix this. There’s also a fuse in the 60s (63/62) iirc that blows that helps trace issue.
A lot of ppl misdiagnose the valve being bad when it’s hot. Unlike your situation, they’re unaware it gets hot when keyed on and up to ~12 mins after even when engine never started.
I would not swap down to the non-M no aux pump valve.

[old///MFanatic]

If you have a home version like PA Soft you probably will see an error code in system.
The valve for example is something like 1A [026]

[Thonas]

It can also be a IHKA heater control panel issue. I think a resistor goes out and constantly grounds and sends to unit. Valve changing does not fix this. There’s also a fuse in the 60s (63/62) iirc that blows that helps trace issue.
A lot of ppl misdiagnose the valve being bad when it’s hot. Unlike your situation, they’re unaware it gets hot when keyed on and up to ~12 mins after even when engine never started.
I would not swap down to the non-M no aux pump valve.

so the fuse would blow and the aux pump would still be hot? Would it throw a code that would be picked up by a scan tool? If it’s the failed resistor would I need a new hvac control panel? Thanks

[Thonas]

So I just ran a code scan with both the schawben scan tool and a peake r5. Any help in deciphering these codes would be great.

The r5 gave me the following faults,
table 1b
code 9b control unit self test, adaption EEPROM master
code 9c control unit self test, adaption EEPROM slave



the schwaben tool had this code

[Thonas]

So I continued investigating all the suggestions.

-fuses are fine-

I am getting two codes listed below, I think I need to replace the pump unit. Any other way to interpret these error codes?

[Thonas]

It can also be a IHKA heater control panel issue. I think a resistor goes out and constantly grounds and sends to unit. Valve changing does not fix this. There’s also a fuse in the 60s (63/62) iirc that blows that helps trace issue.
A lot of ppl misdiagnose the valve being bad when it’s hot. Unlike your situation, they’re unaware it gets hot when keyed on and up to ~12 mins after even when engine never started.
I would not swap down to the non-M no aux pump valve.

Fuse was fine and the schwaben scan tool showed the fault codes below. Do you think this indicates replacement of the pump unit?

[Titaniu//M]

Thanks! I think I will go this route. I assume the wire we connect to the single unit is the one attached to the larger cylinder? Thanks again

Yes, I believe the connectors are different sizes so you can't hook it up incorrectly

[Thonas]

It’s a valve and a pump. It shouldn’t be hot when off. Probably needs to be replaced.


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Thanks, do these fault codes confirm your hypothesis of replacement?

[sapote]

I doubt that the valve has the control signal shorted to ground within its body. More likely the heating/cooling controller some how turned on the internal FET transistor and ground the wire, causing current to flow through the valve and it got hot. You might want to remove the heating/cooling module from the connectors and see what happens. If it is still hot then the wire is shorted to ground somewhere from the heater valve to the control module.

[Thonas]

I doubt that the valve has the control signal shorted to ground within its body. More likely the heating/cooling controller some how turned on the internal FET transistor and ground the wire, causing current to flow through the valve and it got hot. You might want to remove the heating/cooling module from the connectors and see what happens. If it is still hot then the wire is shorted to ground somewhere from the heater valve to the control module.

So you are saying to take apart the small cylinder and remove the heating element? Sorry if I’m not understanding. Thanks

[sapote]

Remove the heating/cooling control module at the console, below the radio.

[sapote]

Or this is easier to see if there’s a short within the water valve: remove the cable connector off the valve, then connect a light bulb between the connector two wires. If it lights up then the short is not within the valve.

[old///MFanatic]

I’m just saying now you need to eliminate before buying another valve is if it’s the valve or something else making it hot when not powered on.
The valve has a plunger that gets (pwm) power to Close it. Otherwise the default is open flow iirc to heater core. It’s kinda counter intuitive, one normally thinks valve open would get power and therefore be hot opening it. This is why people touch it when car activated always think there’s a problem it’s hot and run out buy another valve.
So if HVAC is completely off (not just set low temp) then it shouldn’t be powering the valve constantly. Since your fuses good it’s sounding more like the IHKA control panel. Others around me were the experts on this so not sure.

I’d have to search Swabben codes, don’t know those off hand. That Aux Pump could be a “currently present” or very likely a past code maybe if you unplugged it recently? I’d clear it and check again later. Water Valve and Aux Water Pump have different codes on systems I used.

[Thonas]

I’m just saying now you need to eliminate before buying another valve is if it’s the valve or something else making it hot when not powered on.
The valve has a plunger that gets (pwm) power to Close it. Otherwise the default is open flow iirc to heater core. It’s kinda counter intuitive, one normally thinks valve open would get power and therefore be hot opening it. This is why people touch it when car activated always think there’s a problem it’s hot and run out buy another valve.
So if HVAC is completely off (not just set low temp) then it shouldn’t be powering the valve constantly. Since your fuses good it’s sounding more like the IHKA control panel. Others around me were the experts on this so not sure.

I’d have to search Swabben codes, don’t know those off hand. That Aux Pump could be a “currently present” or very likely a past code maybe if you unplugged it recently? I’d clear it and check again later. Water Valve and Aux Water Pump have different codes on systems I used.

If I have current flowing to the connector plug that connects to the small cylinder when everything is off then I have an issue in the control panel?