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    Driveshaft play

    How much play should there be to the driveshaft, if there should be any at all? I was finally gonna take a look under my car since my car has always vibrated pretty bad when taking off from 1st and when I tried rotating my driveshaft there was a bit of play, I could move it about half an inch side to side. I don’t think that’s normal, if anyone can help me with it. As a side note the guibo, CSB and the CV joint have all been replaced less than 2 years ago.

    *also don’t know how to upload a vid without uploading to YouTube and don’t want to do that so I have a clip on my Instagram story (erickhoyoss) lol shameful plug*

    #2
    I wonder the same thing. Here is a video I made a while back of the driveshaft play I have on mine.

    2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
    Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
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    2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
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      #3
      Originally posted by erickhoyos View Post
      How much play should there be to the driveshaft, if there should be any at all? I was finally gonna take a look under my car since my car has always vibrated pretty bad when taking off from 1st and when I tried rotating my driveshaft there was a bit of play, I could move it about half an inch side to side. I don’t think that’s normal, if anyone can help me with it. As a side note the guibo, CSB and the CV joint have all been replaced less than 2 years ago.

      *also don’t know how to upload a vid without uploading to YouTube and don’t want to do that so I have a clip on my Instagram story (erickhoyoss) lol shameful plug*
      Are you sure it’s not your clutch that’s causing your vibration?

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        #4
        Should not be any side to side play in the driveshaft.


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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          #5
          Originally posted by kokgo20 View Post

          Are you sure it’s not your clutch that’s causing your vibration?
          I worded it wrong, it’s more of a shudder than vibration. I don’t think so, it happens when slowly taking off from 1st or going into reverse. Whole car shakes pretty bad but then doesn’t do it after speeding up.

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            #6
            To properly isolate the driveshaft itself, you need a helper or two to hold the diff input yoke and the tranny output shaft stationary, and then rotate the front section of the driveshaft vs the rear/cv joint.

            What you see in Cubie's video, is (I'm assuming tranny in gear and not neutral), slop from the tranny, potentially in the driveshaft, all the way through the diff (lash/clutches), diff output flanges, half axle inner and outer slop all the way to the wheel (where the wheel is held with a parking brake). So that doesn't show "driveshaft" play, that shows play in the entire driveline, which mostly is normal.

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              #7
              Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
              To properly isolate the driveshaft itself, you need a helper or two to hold the diff input yoke and the tranny output shaft stationary, and then rotate the front section of the driveshaft vs the rear/cv joint.

              What you see in Cubie's video, is (I'm assuming tranny in gear and not neutral), slop from the tranny, potentially in the driveshaft, all the way through the diff (lash/clutches), diff output flanges, half axle inner and outer slop all the way to the wheel (where the wheel is held with a parking brake). So that doesn't show "driveshaft" play, that shows play in the entire driveline, which mostly is normal.

              Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
              Yesterday I had someone hold the front of the driveshaft while I tried to turned the rear end to check for slop and it felt as though there was none (looking for DS U-joint slop).

              That video I posted was with the transmission in neutral, that amount of rotational play is present at the front or rear, it was just easier to film at the front of the DS.

              I currently have an issue with surging/bucking when getting on/off gas. The OP's issue sounds like it may be too much play in U-joint on driveshaft whereas my issue might be diff. related.

              Is that amount of rotational play normal when transmission is in neutral? When in gear it rotates hardly at all compared to what you see in than video.

              OP, Turner sells a remanned driveshafts for about $750 that also has replaceable u-joints, that would be nice. I think its just over $1000 then you send yours back as core and get $250.
              2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
              Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
              Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

              OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
              RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

              2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
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                #8
                Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
                That video I posted was with the transmission in neutral, that amount of rotational play is present at the front or rear, it was just easier to film at the front of the DS.

                .
                This backlash is the clearance in the diff ring/pinion, and I think it’s normal.

                When gear engaged, the backlash in the gears should be less than this.

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                  #9
                  There’s rotational play since there is backlash in the diff and transmission.

                  If there’s play when you grab the driveshaft and wiggle it...there’s something that’s worn out - CV, center bearing or guibo.

                  Should not be play. There should be a little free rotation.


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                    #10
                    Originally posted by erickhoyos View Post

                    I worded it wrong, it’s more of a shudder than vibration. I don’t think so, it happens when slowly taking off from 1st or going into reverse. Whole car shakes pretty bad but then doesn’t do it after speeding up.
                    Are you a manual or smg?
                    how many miles on the car / clutch?
                    highly doubt the drive shaft can cause your issue unless it’s completely toasted but a worn out clutch or flywheel would cause that

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by kokgo20 View Post

                      Are you a manual or smg?
                      how many miles on the car / clutch?
                      highly doubt the drive shaft can cause your issue unless it’s completely toasted but a worn out clutch or flywheel would cause that
                      SMG, almost 172k, pretty sure still on stock clutch.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by erickhoyos View Post

                        SMG, almost 172k, pretty sure still on stock clutch.
                        My gut is telling me that’s your issue
                        try SMG adaptation with INPA or GT1 and see if it helps any

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                          #13
                          Probably need to get underneath and inspect the driveshaft closely. It’s going to come out if it’s a bad clutch either way.

                          As long as the center bearing is in good shape and the CV is greased then a driveshaft should rarely need to rebuilt or replaced.


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                            #14
                            How common is it for the u-joint to go bad on these? As I understand this would be the only real reason to get a different driveshaft as the UJ isn't serviceable.
                            2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                            Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                            Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                            OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                            RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                            2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                            Instagram

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by kokgo20 View Post

                              My gut is telling me that’s your issue
                              try SMG adaptation with INPA or GT1 and see if it helps any
                              Thanks for the tip. Question now is if it is the clutch, what brand clutch/flywheel would be good for daily driving with a bit of spirited driving every once in a while? OEM or stage 1 is what I aim for

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