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Motor Mount Replacement Method

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    #16
    Originally posted by jk715 View Post
    Did this recently with a block of wood and jacked up one side at a time. Remove strut bar, fan shroud (pins), free the fan (4 torque bolts). Do one mount at time. Remove mount top bolt, remove bottom bolt, jack up and replace mount and torque down bolts. Repeat for other side. The should engine lift about 2" and tilt slightly to clear the engine mount top studs. Don't recall the exact jacking points but I did use the oil pan for the driver side mount.
    Definitely a your best guess scenario. I was able to reach from top using a long extension and wobble socket but at the point what good is a torque wrench. I tried to match the driver's side as best as I could.
    3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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      #17
      We all love the satisfying click of a properly torqued faster but in some cases, gutentight is good enough. As mentioned, these are nylock nuts so as long as they are tight to sandwich the arm/subframe they aren’t going anywhere.


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        #18
        For those that used an engine support bar, where is the second lift point? The front one is easy to spot, but I don't see a second. Or is the one good enough?

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          #19
          Originally posted by tone View Post
          For those that used an engine support bar, where is the second lift point? The front one is easy to spot, but I don't see a second. Or is the one good enough?
          Front one is good enough if you keep the transmission connected and mounted.

          In regards to my torque question...as I was wrapping things up I found a path of light from below that was not in a spot I expected. I was able to drop my long 3/8" extension down from there, and from underneath attach a universal joint between the bar and the socked and torque away. My gutentight was good enough for about 30nM, and was easy to take it up to the 45nM spec. Totally agree that this is one spot where gutentight works as well, because you have a locknut and aren't compressing anything.

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            #20
            Yeah those long extensions from the clutch job come in handy here. Easy to get to from the top, dont be afraid of pulling away and bending some of the header heatshielding, you can easily bend it back.

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            All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

            PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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