Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

heinzboehmer's 2002 Topaz 6MT Coupe

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • George Hill
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
    I think I've finally perfected the technique to drain coolant on this car without making a mess of my garage floor. Documenting the steps here for future reference:
    1. Remove all shrouds and belly pan
    2. Set catch pan underneath general lower radiator hose area
    3. Slightly lift up temp sensor on lower radiator hose
    4. Let coolant drip out
    5. Slowly undo expansion tank cap
    6. Let coolant drip out
    7. Squeeze upper radiator hose a million times to get as much coolant out as possible
    8. Slowly disconnect lower radiator hose
    9. Let remaining coolant drip out
    Key is to always have a very small stream coming out of the sensor port. This will keep splashing to a minimum. Yes, it is tedious and does take forever, but I find this preferable to cleaning up a huge coolant spill. Example of how slowly coolant should be coming out:
    Thats pretty much how I do it too, nice work.

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    I think I've finally perfected the technique to drain coolant on this car without making a mess of my garage floor. Documenting the steps here for future reference:
    1. Remove all shrouds and belly pan
    2. Set catch pan underneath general lower radiator hose area
    3. Slightly lift up temp sensor on lower radiator hose
    4. Let coolant drip out
    5. Slowly undo expansion tank cap
    6. Let coolant drip out
    7. Squeeze upper radiator hose a million times to get as much coolant out as possible
    8. Slowly disconnect lower radiator hose
    9. Let remaining coolant drip out
    Key is to always have a very small stream coming out of the sensor port. This will keep splashing to a minimum. Yes, it is tedious and does take forever, but I find this preferable to cleaning up a huge coolant spill. Example of how slowly coolant should be coming out:

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20241001_173413.jpg
Views:	187
Size:	133.5 KB
ID:	280313

    Anyway, whole point of this exercise is to swap in a new radiator, so let's get to that.

    There was a bit of debris in between the condenser and rad, but not a ton:

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20241001_181920.jpg
Views:	181
Size:	185.0 KB
ID:	280314

    Vacuumed all that out and then blew out the condenser as best I could. There are still some small rocks really wedged in there, but this is as good as it's gonna get without complete replacement.

    Original rad had definitely seen better days:

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20241001_195824.jpg
Views:	184
Size:	254.6 KB
ID:	280315
    Click image for larger version

Name:	20241001_195843.jpg
Views:	172
Size:	281.3 KB
ID:	280316

    As others have noted, OE radiator is still being listed under the Modine brand by most online retailers, but is actually labeled as NRF:

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20241001_182704.jpg
Views:	182
Size:	83.9 KB
ID:	280317

    Forgot to take a picture of the shiny new rad in the engine bay, but whatever, everyone knows what a radiator looks like.

    Initial tests look good. Seeing ~10 C temp drops across the rad around town, so similar to before. Will test further, but I likely won't see a huge difference (if any) on the street, since the previous rad was working fine in those conditions. Need to book another hot track day to see how the car does there.

    And since I had all this stuff out of the way, I replaced the idler pulleys + hardware on the main belt.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20240930_184125.jpg
Views:	175
Size:	128.5 KB
ID:	280318
    Click image for larger version

Name:	20240930_192420.jpg
Views:	172
Size:	105.9 KB
ID:	280319

    Nothing super interesting there, except for maybe that black "protection cap", which my car did not come with when I bought it. I'm assuming some previous mechanic lost it at some point.

    Leave a comment:


  • tlow98
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

    So when are we making that custom rear subframe?
    I’m in to help with this project!

    Leave a comment:


  • George Hill
    replied
    No exhaust, no problem, lol.

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Yeah exhaust clearance is definitely the biggest issue. I bet you'd end up needing to build a custom section 2 to get around the lower pickup points.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bry5on
    replied
    Originally posted by ethan View Post

    Could this be as "simple" as cutting off the old RCA pickups on the stock subframe and welding on new ones but lower? I suppose you could then use two pairs of ARCAs with coilover rear suspension. I might be able to do some scanning with the Einstar and experimenting on my track car over the winter.
    A scan would be awesome if you’re willing to share it! The issue is exhaust clearance, but yes that approach could get you there.

    Leave a comment:


  • ethan
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

    So when are we making that custom rear subframe?
    Could this be as "simple" as cutting off the old RCA pickups on the stock subframe and welding on new ones but lower? I suppose you could then use two pairs of ARCAs with coilover rear suspension. I might be able to do some scanning with the Einstar and experimenting on my track car over the winter.

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
    It probably does! Rear suspension looks jacked up because of that damn high rear roll center, and the camber changes *significantly* with ride height because that instant center is basically in the diff, related to the stupid high roll center.
    So when are we making that custom rear subframe?

    Leave a comment:


  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
    I took the rear bumper off to do the muffler swap and noticed that the adhesive on some of the crash bar tabs had failed, so fixed that. Cleaned the area and reattached the tabs with JB plastic bonder. I also decided to add a couple rivets to each tab (including the ones that still hadn't fallen off) for some extra security. Don't think these are coming off anytime soon.
    No adhesive seemed to work for me...rivets seem to be the only way to go.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bry5on
    replied

    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
    Think this pic illustrates the motivation behind the camber arms quite well:

    Rear right wheel looks almost like it's got positive camber!]
    It probably does! Rear suspension looks jacked up because of that damn high rear roll center, and the camber changes *significantly* with ride height because that instant center is basically in the diff, related to the stupid high roll center.


    Originally posted by karter16 View Post
    Apologies for the thread hijack.

    [mention]Bry5on[/mention] are you okay with me adding this to the CAD files master list sticky for everyone's future reference? https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=2212386&share_tid=271707&url=https %3A%2F%2Fnam3forum%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fmobiquo%2Fredi rect%2Ephp%3Ftid%3D271707&share_type=t&link_source =app
    Yep, no problem

    Leave a comment:


  • karter16
    replied
    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post

    Thanks ethan for hosting! Files can be downloaded here: http://bry5on-nam3forum.sfo2.digital...step_files.zip
    Apologies for the thread hijack.

    [mention]Bry5on [/mention] are you okay with me adding this to the CAD files master list sticky for everyone's future reference? https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Think this pic illustrates the motivation behind the camber arms quite well:

    Click image for larger version

Name:	1 (1).jpg
Views:	323
Size:	78.1 KB
ID:	279581

    Rear right wheel looks almost like it's got positive camber!

    Also, cool pic with friends:

    Click image for larger version

Name:	2 (1).jpg
Views:	335
Size:	104.8 KB
ID:	279582

    Leave a comment:


  • Bry5on
    replied
    Originally posted by ethan View Post

    Happy to host them on S3. PM me if that would be helpful.
    Thanks ethan for hosting! Files can be downloaded here: http://bry5on-nam3forum.sfo2.digital...step_files.zip

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
    Also I believe heinzboehmer redesigned the upper duct to better match the dust shield if memory serves. Heinz, shoot me that file if you want.
    Sorta. I redesigned the upper duct to match my modified brake shields. I had previously cut them to install circular flanges for traditional brake duct hoses.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20240327_211020.jpg
Views:	222
Size:	138.9 KB
ID:	279528
    Click image for larger version

Name:	20240327_211043.jpg
Views:	204
Size:	138.7 KB
ID:	279529

    Happy to share the files, but they're matched to the cut shields on my car, so not sure they'll be useful to anyone else.

    Leave a comment:


  • ethan
    replied
    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post

    Follow instructions here for flap trimming: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...963#post253963

    Trying to upload step files but they’re too big for the forum. Will have to find a spot to host them. Also I believe heinzboehmer redesigned the upper duct to better match the dust shield if memory serves. Heinz, shoot me that file if you want.
    Happy to host them on S3. PM me if that would be helpful.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X