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The engine harness is not long enough to reach the locations where the plugs should fit in the euro harness. The US O2 sensor harnesses themselves are longer than euro so you can make it reach without cutting, it just won’t fit into the factory euro clips perfectly.
The engine harness is not long enough to reach the locations where the plugs should fit in the euro harness. The US O2 sensor harnesses themselves are longer than euro so you can make it reach without cutting, it just won’t fit into the factory euro clips perfectly.
When you de-pinned and re-routed your post cat O2 harness was the wiring long enough to accommodate the OEM Euro wire guide/connector mount? My harness is not long enough to use the wire guide/mount, and I am trying to determine if I somehow did not fully extend the harness or if the shortage is to be expected.
Thanks.
D-O
The rear O2 sensors are different lengths for Euro vs US which means the DME harness is most likely different (definitely different part number):
The US ones are longer, so you would think it would reach with some extra slack. The location of the O2 plugs might not be in an ideal spot to clip them in under the car with the euro cable box.
When you de-pinned and re-routed your post cat O2 harness was the wiring long enough to accommodate the OEM Euro wire guide/connector mount? My harness is not long enough to use the wire guide/mount, and I am trying to determine if I somehow did not fully extend the harness or if the shortage is to be expected.
Thanks.
D-O
Hmm, mine feels like it should be long enough, but I accidentally didn't buy all the necessary euro parts when I did it, so I didn't end up using them. My wires are currently just tucked into the transmission harness clips/zip tied out of the way.
I think Bry5on did it the same way I did and also installed the euro stuff? Not sure if he extended the wires though.
When you de-pinned and re-routed your post cat O2 harness was the wiring long enough to accommodate the OEM Euro wire guide/connector mount? My harness is not long enough to use the wire guide/mount, and I am trying to determine if I somehow did not fully extend the harness or if the shortage is to be expected.
Spent waay too long yesterday installing an E39 shifter vibration damper (25111434028) to try and calm down the high rpm rattle that the AS shifter makes.
Started by spending about an hour trying to get the shift knob off before giving up. I tried all the usual tricks —including opening my sunroof for the first time in years and standing on the seats— but no luck. So instead, I decided to remove the shifter and install the damper from the bottom. Removal was not hard, just annoying and time consuming. It involved taking off the snap ring that holds the spherical bearing to the carrier, disconnecting the selector rod and then pulling the shifter up into the cabin. Managed to do all of this without removing the exhaust, but it was tight.
Shifter and damper on the bench:
Aaand the damn thing doesn't fit:
Seems like the OD on the AS shifter is slightly larger than stock. I really should have measured before starting this project, but still very annoying to do all that work and then find this.
I decided to practice my sunk cost fallacy skills and try to make this work. I extended the slits, busted out the Krytox and brute forced it on:
Nice.
Here it is with everything back together:
Also did a couple other things while the car was in the air. First, I installed that spacer that I missed earlier on the exhaust brace (wow, that's hard to see in that picture, but trust me, it's there):
And second, I reprinted the broken brake scoop (living in the future is pretty great!) and installed:
You can see the interference between both parts at full droop. I was too tired to trim the dust shield parts, but they don't run into each other at ride height, so I'll just have to do it later.
Anyway, no noticeable change in driving from the scoop and exhaust brace spacer, which is good (and expected).
The damper did make a noticeable difference though. Rattle is reduced, but there is still some around ~7k rpm. It's a much less harsh rattle, so a step in the right direction. The damper also slightly improved shift feel. 420G still crunches like it always does, but the crunches are less peaky(?). It's hard to describe, but they simply feels duller and less jarring. Guess the crunches feel more damped
All in all happy with the change. I can likely tune it further by moving the damper up/down on the shifter, but that sounds like a project for some other day.
Hopefully this doesn't function as a trans fluid heater 🤨
Yeah not too worried about this either because of the SS. You could do titanium hardware and titanium spacer if you wanted to get super fancy, but likely superfluous.
SS has super shitty thermal conductivity and the thermal path/impedance is very long/high. Personally not super concerned. Each layered joint (brace 1, spacer, brace 2, etc) also increases the thermal impedance which helps too.
sendcutsend.com
Awesome I emailed them the pic obi posted. Hopefully they can hook me up with just that. Cheers
And earlier I wrote M6 fastener size (post since corrected). I just pulled up the CAD file and the holes are M8 clearance. So these should be M8 fasteners, not M6. Sorry, I did this a while back!
Hopefully this doesn't function as a trans fluid heater 🤨
SS has super shitty thermal conductivity and the thermal path/impedance is very long/high. Personally not super concerned. Each layered joint (brace 1, spacer, brace 2, etc) also increases the thermal impedance which helps too.
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