heinzboehmer's 2002 Topaz 6MT Coupe

[heinzboehmer]

Finally some euro cubby progress.

Started by modeling and printing a perimeter that represents the smallest hole I can cut in the inner dash layer, while still allowing the front of the compartment to fully articulate. Clearance between the reference perimeter and cubby is way tighter than I actually want to make it, but this piece is just meant to serve as a real world, tangible reference for myself:





Next came the cutting template for the inner layer. I modeled the inside of the dash (actually a negative of it) using one of the many scans Bry5on and I took as a reference. Then did my best to approximate the cut lines using images of the euro dash:





Managed to nail the geometry on the first try!

Guess that's kind of the expectation when referencing a very accurate scan, but still felt great to pull this thing out of the printer and have it just fit:





Hard to tell from the pics above, but the template indexes on a couple of the dash features and is held in place by the screws that normally hold in the footwell plastics. This should make the cutting operation fairly precise and very repeatable.

(also, photographing matte black plastic is no fun...)

I then grabbed another (cracked) section of a dash, verified that the template fits just as well on that and marked the cut lines with a sharpie:



Looking more and more similar to bmwfnatic's dash!



I also checked the cut marks using the reference perimeter piece from before. Keep in mind that the cut will happen on the outside edge of the sharpie marks, but the minimum perimeter corresponds to the inside edge of the reference piece:



I might open up the tolerance on the cut lines just a bit, but still not sure. Placing and fastening the cutting template seems pretty repeatable, but I'm going to need to practice on a few dashes before I can say for sure that the cut lines always end up in basically the same spot. If they do, then I can keep them where they are. If they don't, I'm gonna need to mess with them a bit.

The one thing that I cannot move around is the bottom cut line (closest to the existing screw holes). The cubby has two tabs that hook onto that edge and keep it in place. Too much space between the cubby and that edge means its bottom will slide forward when you go to open it.

Next up is actually cutting that section of the inner layer out, digging out the foam from underneath and starting to mess with the vinyl. I should be able to cut out most of the vinyl and just push the cubby in to give myself an idea of how much the vinyl needs to be reshaped.

[heinzboehmer]

Old headliner foam removed. I opted to buy some dish brushes and try to remove it manually in an attempt to cut down on the mess. The brushes I got had some plastic scrapers built into their heads which worked extremely well for scraping the foam up. I then used the actual brush part for the harder to reach areas.





The foam was easy enough to remove, but there's still a layer of old glue on the thing. I don't think I can remove it without damaging the material underneath, so just going to leave it.

There was also a bit of mold staining on the bottom corners. Tried spraying with some isopropyl alcohol and then hitting it with the brush. Got most of the stains out, but was also starting to mess up the material underneath, so I stopped. Good enough:




That's it for now on the headliner. Once I manage to buy the fabric, I'll give it a quick pass with the drill brush attachment (to get any foam that I might have missed by hand), stick it in a bag with the ozone generator, give it a quick scuff with some sandpaper and reupholster it.

Also, since the slicktop homelink bracket is NLA, I decided to just get a homelink mirror instead. Ended up with a ridiculous amount of them, as I also retrofitted a homelink 4 module into a friend's mirror:



Along with the mirror, I also built an E8x/E9x dashcam adapter harness thing for said friend:



M3 got a short, grey clown nose mirror with the homelink buttons. It also came with a compass, but I decided to disable it. TIS wiring diagrams made it seem like the compass runs off of the shared 12V rail in the mirror, so I didn't even try pulling wires from the connector to see if one of them disabled it. Instead, I just removed the GND jumper from the daughter board of the compass screen (J6) so that it can't turn on. I also put some tesa tape on top of the screen, as you can just barely make out its outline if the light hits the mirror just right. much harder to do so with the tape:





And lastly, just a quick note to my future self: guitar pick is absolutely the best way to open these things up. Slip it in somewhere (homelink mirrors have a nice little cutout in the surround near the buttons), then run it around the perimeter of the mirror. Pick is flexible enough to get underneath the edge of the surround and also soft enough to not leave any marks:

[heinzboehmer]

Alright, quick recap of the headliner adventure.

Here's the headliner in more detail.





There's a bit of mold on it, but that's to be expected for something that came out of a car that was abandoned in the woods. My plan is to clean it up mechanically as much as I can, then put it in some plastic bags with an ozone generator to fully kill everything. If anyone has experience with using ozone generators for this kind of stuff, I'd appreciate some guidance!

Improvised a box and packaging for the part by basically digging through my friend's recycling and pulling old pillows from his closet:







It's a bit ridiculous and shitty looking, but this thing is going overnight to California, so I think it'll be just fine. Will likely make it back home before me

[heinzboehmer]

Love how a plan comes together. I pulled this car out of the woods a couple years ago saving it from the scrap yard. Pretty cool how this part is making its way to California to live on.

Hell yeah! Thanks again for letting me know about it.

[George Hill]

Love how a plan comes together. I pulled this car out of the woods a couple years ago saving it from the scrap yard. Pretty cool how this part is making its way to California to live on.

[heinzboehmer]

Picked this up today from a friend of George Hill's:



Feels good to finally have one, have been looking for one forever. Now just need to get all that old adhesive off (destroying my floor and clothes in the process) and wrap it in some new BM134 fabric.

[heinzboehmer]

I'll have to ask my HW friends. Unfortunately don't know anyone at TI, but maybe one of them does?

[Bry5on]

I've had zero luck finding info about the processor. Even after you cut open your spare MK60.

Need to find someone who worked on this thing at TI.

Well for the public record, the chip is a Texas Instruments (TI) 990-9377.1D and my EE automotive engineer friend that worked for TI at the time says it was likely a custom fabbed chip by TI for ATE Teves. But didn’t have a lead on anything else.. Maybe someone else reading has a better lead?

[heinzboehmer]

Yeah I couldn’t figure out any instruction sets for the chip - it’s some proprietary traction control focused chip and not a widely used generic one. Above my disassembly pay grade, but maybe not yours!

I've had zero luck finding info about the processor. Even after you cut open your spare MK60.

Need to find someone who worked on this thing at TI.

[Bry5on]

Didn't you try messing with it at some point only to find that there was something weird with the instruction set?

Yeah I couldn’t figure out any instruction sets for the chip - it’s some proprietary traction control focused chip and not a widely used generic one. Above my disassembly pay grade, but maybe not yours!

[heinzboehmer]

Next disassembly project?!

Didn't you try messing with it at some point only to find that there was something weird with the instruction set?

[Bry5on]

Next disassembly project?!

[heinzboehmer]

Interesting. I'm assuming you have the yaw sensor? I've deleted my yaw sensor and I've only run into ice mode a couple of times when I obviously overcook a braking zone while in retard mode. Releasing the brake and reapplying aggressively gets the brakes to bite again. I turn and can brake quite aggressively into a fast sweeper at 125 mph.

I'd really like to know more about how and when ice mode kicks in since panic mode kicks in right after ice mode lol

Yep, yaw sensor is installed (and functional). I would also love to know what triggers it. What you describe does not sound like fun at all...

[bigjae46]

Thinking back on this, I'm pretty sure the conditions (and my terrible drifting abilities) were triggering ice mode. Pumping the pedal was an almost instinctual reaction (kinda like flicking a switch a bunch of times when it doesn't do what you expect), so it was not as scary as I thought. I bet it's WAY scarier when going into a corner at 120+ mph though!

Interesting. I'm assuming you have the yaw sensor? I've deleted my yaw sensor and I've only run into ice mode a couple of times when I obviously overcook a braking zone while in retard mode. Releasing the brake and reapplying aggressively gets the brakes to bite again. I turn and can brake quite aggressively into a fast sweeper at 125 mph.

I'd really like to know more about how and when ice mode kicks in since panic mode kicks in right after ice mode lol

[heinzboehmer]

Looks like lovely weather

What is Ice Mode on the Mk.60, i have never heard of that before?

Yeah it's not as easy to trigger as on the MK20 (or so I've heard), but same thing.

Basically just an operating mode that the unit goes into when it thinks you're trying to slow down on a very low friction surface (e.g. ice). It drastically reduces braking force at the calipers in an effort to keep the car pointing straight.