Casa de Mesa’s M3 color change from blue to blue

[02_lsb]

Where are my Laguna Seca pictures????

[Casa de Mesa]

Man finally almost there, what an amazing build from start to finish! Just knowing that you went through every single item up to this point must be a huge confidence boost.

Thank you!! Just getting the car to start was a huge confidence boost, lol Let me tell you. Turning that key for the first time was anxiety inducing.

Where are my Laguna Seca pictures????

I feel the same way! Anyone on here in spitting distance from Charlotte/Winston-Salem have an LSB M3? I'll buy you a cheeseburger if we can meet up.


Also... my real life work (not this car, lol) has been chaotic AF recently. Apologies for the radio silence. Haven't been around these here parts...

[02_lsb]

Thank you!! Just getting the car to start was a huge confidence boost, lol Let me tell you. Turning that key for the first time was anxiety inducing.



I feel the same way! Anyone on here in spitting distance from Charlotte/Winston-Salem have an LSB M3? I'll buy you a cheeseburger if we can meet up.


Also... my real life work (not this car, lol) has been chaotic AF recently. Apologies for the radio silence. Haven't been around these here parts...

If you were even a little closer to Maryland, I’d volunteer. My friend has interlagos, it would be an interesting side by side.

[Casa de Mesa]

Finishing details on the Karbonius trunk / bootlid

The Karbonius trunk is one of the coolest pieces in my entire build. I've said it before but it is 1) a work of art 2) an extremely complex piece and 3) very well made. In other threads on this forum, people have been questioning the "plug and play-ability" of the trunk, and also the fit and finish. I can't deny that there are some challenges. Thus, I wanted to highlight some of the areas I needed to address to get the trunk to fit perfectly.

Would you buy it again?

Hell yes.

The "macro" stuff all fit really well. To me, macro = the mounting holes for the trunk hinges, the body lines on all edges of the trunk, the forward/aft and side-to-side dimensions, and so forth. Also, the actual primed and finished exterior panels are exceptionally well done. Even with brand new paintwork, I cannot tell it's a carbon piece. You do not see the carbon weave in the paint AT ALL.

Overall, I would not hesitate to buy this thing again in a heartbeat. IMHO, once mounted and adjusted, it's as good if not better than the OEM CSL bootlid.

That said, below are some nags I have and potential areas for improvement. Some are likely to give Karbonius some heat on these areas as a top-tier manufacturer. But mind you - once you've done the below, I'm not sure you'll find a better fitting aftermarket trunk. Also, I think anytime you're fitting a non-OEM piece that is made 100% differently than the factory piece using 100% carbon construction, you have to allow for some of what's below. You also have to realize how light this thing is compared to factory. It's exceptionally light but also extremely well made.


Wear a mask

One word of caution about the below. Whenever you're working with something that is creating dust (be it carbon, fiberglass or wood), wear a mask. Your lungs will thank you. Carbon dust = nasty stuff for your O2 to CO2 converters.


License plate mounting holes (reposted from above, edited slightly)

Drilling out the license plate mount was a bit of a pain. This is a pretty big hole to need to punch through carbon. I don't have a ton of experience drill through the stuff, but know you need to use light pressure so the drill bit doesn't catch and tear through the trunk.

After marking the hole locations with the old licence plate mount/bracket, I used a center punch to dimple the paint/trunk. I just used my hand a pressed in (did NOT use a hammer). I then took the smallest drill bit I had, and slowly "drilled" into that center-punched dimple by hand. As in, I held the drill bit in my hand and slowly made the initial marks you see below in the 2nd and 3rd pic following this paragraph. After I had a good start, I then switch to an actual drill bit and very slowly with very light pressure, drilled into the trunk...









The BMW roundel holes

I found that the holes for the BMW trunk emblem were slightly too small. The grommets used for the trunk (p/n: 51148209932) didn't fit into the pre-drilled holes in the trunk, and the holes needed to be relieved some.

Also, the center-to-center points for the pre-drilled holes did not match the center points of the pins on the backside of the new roundel/emblem. They were close, but not perfect - the holes were physically too close to one another by perhaps 1-2mm.

Not a big deal, here is how I got the roundel to fit perfectly:

1. Used a set of caliper dials to measure the outside diameter of the grommet (loose, not installed on the badge)
2. Matched a drill bit that was roughly the same size (roughly = SLIGHTLY smaller, I can't remember the bit size - call it "final bit size").
3. Installed the grommets onto the emblem, and measured the overall left-to-right dimension of the grommets. This got me the outward-most edges.
4. Using masking tape, I transferred that dimension to the trunk. The vertical pieces of masking tape below reflect this outward-most dimension.
5. Then used a bit that was maybe 0.5mm smaller than the final bit size, and used that to walk the holes out to the vertical edges of the masking tape with the drill. This netted me the overall / outward-most left-to-right dimension needed for the emblem tabs and grommets.
6. I used the final bit size to carefully open up the holes.
7. Done.

Rubber trunk bumpers / stoppers

The factory rubber stoppers (dense rubber - they almost feel like plastic) used on the steel trunk are screwed into the bottom inner-edge of the trunk and prevent it from slamming into the body work. You can adjust the height of the stoppers based on how far in you screw them. While the catch that mounts inside the luggage compartment for the trunk latch prevents the trunk from closing too far in the center, the rubber stoppers on the sides are equally (if not more) important for preventing the trunk from contacting the body. Ask me how I know...

You can't just transfer the factory stoppers over to the Karbonius trunk, however. The holes in the Karbonius trunk are too narrow for the factory bumpers/stoppers - despite my best efforts, I couldn't screw them into trunk. Don't even try - they won't fit.

So I measured the ID of the hole, then hit Google for a solution. I found it in a GM bumper that's used on Firebirds, Camaros, etc. It's GM part number 10279121 and here is where I got it:

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-pa...umper-10279121

These are a tight fit, but work perfectly. The shank of the screw is exactly the same OD as the ID of the trunk holes (~18mm). So while it's a bit snug, they fit really well, won't budge due to vibration and look factory.








Trunk-mounted brake / reverse lights

They fit, but it was a bit snug getting them to snap in place. I think with the raw carbon on the inside, there is more friction than with a steel trunk. So it required a bit of force to snap these into place.

Once snapped in place, the interior plastic trim piece that holds the reverse light bulb interfered slightly with the interior of the trunk. I don't have pics but can get some. So I had to clearance the interfering area with a rotary tool. This was a very easy mod with a Dremel.

These are the bulb holders I'm talking about:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/63218374807/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/63218374808/


License plate lights

These were a snug fit, but ultimately they snapped into place. I've seen some others say they needed to clearance the openings in the trunk in order to get these to fit. I did not need to do that, but figured it was worth mentioning here.


///M3 trunk emblem alignment / badge bootlid alignment

I found a post on CSL Register from the always helpful NZ_M3 where he measured the "M3 CSL" badge on his actual CSL. Go here:

http://www.cslregister.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5092

I wanted the badge in the same general area. However, because the regular M3 badge doesn't have the "CSL" lettering hanging off the end of it, I took this approach.

• The distance from the bottom edge of the body line in the bootlid is 1.5cm (see pics)
• The right most measurement is 4.5cm from the trunk edge
• The left most measurement is ~22.5cm from the trunk edge
• This puts the centerline of the badge at 13.5cm
• I used masking tape to make a template of sorts, getting the 1.5cm height from the body line as shown, and also marking the CL at 13.5cm (not shown, bad pics, sorry).
• I then took the centerline of the my new "M3 only badge" (less the CSL lettering) and mounted it up.

In my opinion, this approach leaves the perfect amount of negative space, based on other reference points on the trunk - the body line underneath it, the trunk edge, spacing to the inner portion of the trunk, relationship to the brake light and so forth.

Pics from CSL Register:









Where I put the M3 badge:

[02_lsb]

Bro. Hit up BMW NA and see about getting an “honorary” individual decal. This car is just amazing.

[Casa de Mesa]

Bro. Hit up BMW NA and see about getting an “honorary” individual decal. This car is just amazing.

Man thank you. I genuinely appreciate that.

I have all the factory BMW decals that I sourced before I started this... except for the paint code. However, I was going to have my wife (who is a graphic designer, among other things) see if she could make a decal with the paint code. She can duplicate the decal and get it printed on the same material (or close enough) as the factory decal.

[stephen]

For the decals maybe try getting in contact with Brett Raymond. He was able to perfectly replicate them, but I am not sure if he’s offering that as a service yet.

https://www.mforum.net/forum/e36-m3-1992-1999/6066-jim-s-1999-m3-restoration-and-street-gtr-hommage-conversion/page1

[Lee_Enfield]

Very nicely done,

Just like Robs Rosso Corsa build, this has me really wanting to do a full engine out respray/build myself. Really makes me want to go out to my garage and start tearing mine apart lol.

That said, I would go a different path with the colors. I like colors that don't immediately catch your eye, but once you notice it it just pops. Was thinking BMWs new Dravit Grey. With some black and carbon trim it would have a very subtle yet nice contrast.

[Thoglan]

Very nicely done,

I like colors that don't immediately catch your eye, but once you notice it it just pops. Was thinking BMWs new Dravit Grey.

I'm the same way. Messing metallic is a more subtle individual colour I've always been jealous of on the E46.

[antknee]

thats pretty slick with the bump stops you used. Looks factory!

[bigjae46]

The car looks fantastic!

One word of caution about the below. Whenever you're working with something that is creating dust (be it carbon, fiberglass or wood), wear a mask. Your lungs will thank you. Carbon dust = nasty stuff for your O2 to CO2 converters.

When working with carbon dust, definitely want a respirator instead of a mask (ensure you have a cartridge rated for dust, not organic vapor). Also, long sleeves because the dust will irritate skin. Lastly, keep the dust off of power tools. Carbon fiber is electrically conductive so if you get enough dust in the wrong places then it will cause the tool to fail.

I usually cut carbon with a vacuum in the other hand to collect dust.

[Casa de Mesa]

Very nicely done,

Just like Robs Rosso Corsa build, this has me really wanting to do a full engine out respray/build myself. Really makes me want to go out to my garage and start tearing mine apart lol.

That said, I would go a different path with the colors. I like colors that don't immediately catch your eye, but once you notice it it just pops. Was thinking BMWs new Dravit Grey. With some black and carbon trim it would have a very subtle yet nice contrast.

Thank you Lee. This was one of the most rewarding projects I've ever done, short of maybe renovating a house. I'm a bit behind on updates to this thread but have around 2,500 miles on the car so far - 95% of which has been two fully rallies. The paintwork is really, really good - zero chips, flakes, etc. and I have not babied the car. It's been driven hard as intended by Munich.

The car is also a much faster with the weight loss and the Karbonius intake. I've been absolutely loving it. The dynamics of the car got turned up several notches with all the weight that was taken out. I need to add it all up (or scale the car), but with the roof, trunk, airbag deletes (rear seats only), CD changer, etc - all the other typical stuff people delete - the car will now hang with my buddy's M2 CS. Bold statement, I know. It's sorta shocking to be honest.

Rob's build was one of the builds that pushed me over the edge and I decided to just do it. Do it, you won't regret it!

I'm the same way. Messing metallic is a more subtle individual colour I've always been jealous of on the E46.

Every car I've owned has been within the Germain rainbow, for the most part. Muted greys, white, silver, black. If I was going to do this, I was going bright AF!

thats pretty slick with the bump stops you used. Looks factory!

Took a while to find those bump stops for the trunk but they work perfectly! Hope others can benefit from it.

The car looks fantastic!

Thank you!

When working with carbon dust, definitely want a respirator instead of a mask (ensure you have a cartridge rated for dust, not organic vapor). Also, long sleeves because the dust will irritate skin. Lastly, keep the dust off of power tools. Carbon fiber is electrically conductive so if you get enough dust in the wrong places then it will cause the tool to fail.

I usually cut carbon with a vacuum in the other hand to collect dust.

^^pro tip right here.

[Lee_Enfield]

Rob's build was one of the builds that pushed me over the edge and I decided to just do it. Do it, you won't regret it!

I really want to. Only thing is I can't decide if I should do it to my high(er) km 02 or find a lower km 03+. I would not mind cinnamon interior as well. Only thing a newer one would have that I probably can't reasonably do to mine is the mk60 brake unit. Mines got a bit of rust but I figure it's surface rust and should be easily repairable.

[Casa de Mesa]

Dropping off the Burkhart Engineering / a.k.a. HappyBuyItNow eBay CSL-clone diffuser off at Vintage Restoration today. They are going to paint it up CSL style.

In the meantime, I put the stock diffuser back on. Doesn't look too bad! With the Karbonius CSL trunk, I expected not to like it but I really don't mind it at all.

Also, the stock diffuser went on with ease - it just pops in place. Really makes me wish I bought a higher quality diffuser... which to be fair, I thought I was getting with the Burkart Engineering piece. See this thread. Their white-labeled eBay diffuser fits and is good enough, but it takes some finessing to get it "just so". The stock piece just pops in place and it's perfectly aligned. Done.

[Casa de Mesa]

In the prior post, I finally got around to dropping off the diffuser at Vintage Restoration for them to paint it. While there, they gave me a thumb drive with some in-progress pics. The quality of the photos aren't the best but neither are mine. For completeness sake, I wanted to post some of them here.

The day I rolled the car into the shop:







Roof cut out:





Test fitting the carbon roof before any paint or body work began:






Sanding and prep. The car was very straight - with the exception of a couple of door dings from the previous owners, there was very little bodywork needed. They PDR'ed the dents as much as possible to use the least about of filler/Bondo as possible.







In the engine bay and the trunk recess, I went with a satin clear to match the factory look and feel. I debated clearing these pretty heavily (less work for the shop) but ultimately landed on keeping it as factory as possible. I'm glad I did - with the matte carbon Karbonius intake, satin just looks correct, IMO.

Reverse taping:





After applying the base color coats. The hood (bonnet) and hood hinges are satin too:





Satin under the hood:



And now taping off the satin for the exterior body panels that are gloss, and shooting the Sharking MF Blue:











Love this pic:



Gluing up the carbon roof:





After wet sanding and another coat of a paint or clear - I'm not sure what stage this is exactly. I know they wet sanded the car multiple times in between base coats and then finally after all clear coats:



Rolling the car out in the sun to help cure the paint. I believe this was during some of the in between wet sanding stages based on the file dates of these pics:





Hood mounted up and more wet sanding: