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  • tlow98
    replied
    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post

    Totally agree. When I installed these, I only really noticed the harshness on hard impacts. Going back to stock really highlighted the NVH differences during all types of driving, especially a bit of drivetrain noise that came through that I didn’t realize. It’s subtle but does make a difference for a daily driver.
    interesting note about the shifting being smoother with the stock parts. Maybe I’ll give the stock RTABs a try after all. Did you put any of the limiters on with them?

    Leave a comment:


  • Bry5on
    replied
    Originally posted by jrgatfh View Post

    Great thread and amazing build.

    Love the idea of using the cabrio steering wheel trim to fit the microphone. Any additional information you can share on this? Have you finished installing it yet?

    Is the factory mic plug and play with the AVIN radio? Or did it require some work to get it functioning properly.

    TIA!
    Thank you! I did finish wiring it up to the factory mic, but alas, the cheapness of the Avin engineering shines bright. The mic input is connected through the Avin’s Bluetooth module directly, and as I use CarPlay the Avin does not use the mic plug from the back, but uses the built in mic on the front of the panel at all times. Callers on the other end of your CarPlay phone calls will report no difference in audio quality whether a mic is plugged in or not, and in fact folks on the other end of my calls heard a sawtooth like interference noise. Undoubtedly due to crappy layout of the traces on the board that lead to the microphone input. I opened the Avin unit up, disconnected the internal mic, and under no circumstance did any audio come through from my end.

    When using the factory mic with the Avin unit over Bluetooth (which means no CarPlay), sound is clear but quiet, and unfortunately I never did test the original mic in its place.

    At some point in the future, next time the dash is apart, I’m going to have to take apart the Avin unit, trace the circuit and hard wire this mic in place of the front panel one. Probably by bypassing as much of the board traces as possible..

    Eventually, I’ll get this one right as I’m really tired of putting headphones in when I get a call.

    A couple photos of the cab mic. If anyone knows the part numbers for the mating plug and contacts, I’m interested!
    Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by Bry5on; 02-20-2023, 09:55 PM.

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  • jrgatfh
    replied
    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
    The v2 recaro brackets showed up, powder coated and all and I was able to get them in today. They’re millimeter perfect fitment in every dimension, and I’m very happy with the finish. Thank you sendcutsend!

    Link to CAD, if you're inclined to recreate these: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/c4...d0507e4eaa81d3

    Final bracket version installed:
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    I also installed the upper steering column trim from a late cabrio (still waiting on the OEM mic, just wired my existing one in for now) and swapped out the steering shaft flex disc. No pics of the flex disc but here’s the cabrio column trim:
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    Great thread and amazing build.

    Love the idea of using the cabrio steering wheel trim to fit the microphone. Any additional information you can share on this? Have you finished installing it yet?

    Is the factory mic plug and play with the AVIN radio? Or did it require some work to get it functioning properly.

    ​​​​​​​TIA!

    Leave a comment:


  • Bry5on
    replied
    Low key couple of weeks. Took the time today to trim the intake duct a la M3 CSL along with a car wash and vacuum as it was getting pretty messy. Excuse the power wire that’s connected to my wideband for datalogging purposes (did my own WOT tune using Tunerpro). I also received the missing heat shield that keeps the AC working well. Gotta add a few nutserts to the frame rail and get that thing installed. The right time to do this is when the engine is out..

    I also caved and ordered a Wavetrac and 3 new CV joints (diff from diffsonline). I loved the Torsen in my old 6-speed Z3 coupe and the diff in this M3 is tired. Goodbye m-clunk! Thanks in advance heinzboehmer and/or Trent for the extra hands.

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    Last edited by Bry5on; 02-19-2023, 06:30 PM. Reason: Trying to make tagging work

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  • Bry5on
    replied
    Well, I'm on to Rev 2 of the CG location change sheet. Really just wanted to nail this thing..
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    And I've also started playing around with TunerPro. Very interesting to see how much correction there is in the WOT map from the stock CSL, and how the need for it aligns with my datalogs above.

    And last but not least, for the record, slon tested the M3 v-brace at a 12% increase in torsional stiffness, with the strut brace at 20% - combining the two gets you 34%!

    Factory tourings were already a bit more rigid due to the bonded rear glass and maybe the floor.
    Assuming they are additive, this puts it at:


    BMW E46 Sedan (w/o folding seats) - 18,000 Nm/deg
    BMW E46 Sedan (w/folding seats) - 13,000 Nm/deg
    BMW E46 Wagon (w/folding seats) - 14,000 Nm/deg
    BMW E46 Coupe (w/folding seats) - 12,500 Nm/deg
    BMW E46 Convertible - 10,500 Nm/deg
    Slon stock M3 - 14,200 Nm/deg
    Slon M3 with rear seat wall - 18,176 Nm/deg
    Bryson 332iT - 18,760 Nm/deg​
    Last edited by Bry5on; 02-06-2023, 08:02 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bry5on
    replied
    Spent some time datalogging with the wideband O2 sensor this weekend. I’ve got a tune on the car now which looks like it needs some work in the low end! This is several runs all logged on top of each other, with only WOT data points, as an example:
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  • Bry5on
    replied
    Now that I've got the corner weights and CG height, I was able to calculate my exact CG location. And not to put this information to waste, I built a spreadsheet to track changes to corner weight and CG location (incl. height) for any given modification. I just have to enter the x, y, and z coordinates (relative to the center X of the 4 wheels, on the ground) and the weight added or removed and I'll have new numbers generated automagically.


    This spreadsheet technically works for any e46 (make sure your track and tire widths are correct) so I'm sharing it here in the case anyone else finds it useful. Enjoy!

    CG location change.xlsx

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    Last edited by Bry5on; 02-01-2023, 09:41 PM.

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  • Bry5on
    replied
    Well, I did it..
    Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by Bry5on; 02-01-2023, 09:41 PM.

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  • Bry5on
    replied
    Originally posted by Thoglan View Post
    I was literally just about to order some monoball RTABs and now this thread is making me think I should just get new OEM ones.
    If you value a smooth ride, or if you frequently drive on crappy roads, I’d stay stock. The rear end definitely feels tighter with the monoballs, but you’ve gotta want that trade off. I’m also in a wagon which might make a difference in noise, although the RTABs are under the back seat, so I’m a little doubtful.

    The commute today was fantastic. I drove with the stereo off

    Leave a comment:


  • Thoglan
    replied
    I was literally just about to order some monoball RTABs and now this thread is making me think I should just get new OEM ones.

    Leave a comment:


  • timmo
    replied
    Hah, same - between the spherical RTABs, GC 2-ways, and all the poly bushings.... well I did build my car for track but I don't do that anymore. My friend's beat-up 320 on stock suspension felt like riding on a cloud!

    Leave a comment:


  • Bry5on
    replied
    Originally posted by maupineda View Post
    I did not notice any NVH when I did my RTAB from solid works design. But I do think is very noticeable to go back to stock more so than aftermarket as we have higher expectations when modding.
    Totally agree. When I installed these, I only really noticed the harshness on hard impacts. Going back to stock really highlighted the NVH differences during all types of driving, especially a bit of drivetrain noise that came through that I didn’t realize. It’s subtle but does make a difference for a daily driver.

    Leave a comment:


  • maupineda
    replied
    I did not notice any NVH when I did my RTAB from solid works design. But I do think is very noticeable to go back to stock more so than aftermarket as we have higher expectations when modding.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bry5on
    replied
    I had a few hours to spare this afternoon and snuck in a couple things:
    1: Popped the drivers door panel off, added a missing clip for the door handle and redid the butyl as it wasn’t sticky
    2: Popped the passenger rear door panel off and repaired the blown out bavsound speaker. The dome had separated from the cone and made a buzzing sound at certain frequencies, especially male voices.
    Separated:
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    Repaired, painted black with sharpie so it doesn’t show:
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    3: Adjusted the ebrake to the correct 3 clicks
    4: Removed the bimmerworld solid RTABs and replaced them with factory bushings. Man oh man I’m a lot happier with the factory parts. The car is quieter at all speeds, downshifting/rev matching is smoother, and the suspension is so much smootherover all the broken pavement we have here. I did my best at approximating the alignment but I’ll have it aligned to CSL specs again sometime this week before I drive to Sacramento to pick up a Mini GP my friend just bought.
    Bimmerworld installed:
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    Factory replacements installed:
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    Bimmerworlds must be trimmed so that puller tools can remove them
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    Anyone local to the bay want some 5,000 mile old bimmerworld RTABs? They’d be great for a weekend only driver.​

    Leave a comment:


  • GreyM340i
    replied
    Amazing build! Love it

    Leave a comment:

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