Liam821's e46 324i k24/dct/turbo build

[liam821]

Been a minute since I've updated this, so here are the last few months...

Finished all the wiring on the inside of the car, mainly wiring in the MaxxECU GT150 12-pin DCT "female side" plug so the MaxxECU DCT harness plugs right in. It's not super difficult to wire in. The only thing that is actually wired into the car is the power and ground.

CAN-H and CAN-L (which gets plugged into the CAN on the Maxx MS43 plug-n-play harness)
Paddle up/down (see above)
Ground (wired into the factory ground location next to the passenger seat on the tunnel)
12v+ (Added the correct fuse (20amp) and wired the power right into the factory fuse box where normally the SMG gets its power, fuse location 22, so dct powers on at the same time the Maxx does)


Modified the MaxxECU MS43 plug-n-play harness to add two CAN plugs using Deutsch connectors. One for the DCT, one for the CANChecked MCE18 can-bus extension (adds 9 analog inputs, 6 digital inputs, and 3 digital outputs).


I finally got myself some high-quality Deutsch/AMP/Delphi pin-extration tools. LIFE CHANGING! Depinning and modifying all the BMW connectors is a massive pain, but this tool makes it easy.


Still a mess in here, but it's looking more and more like a car again


E92M3 DCT shifter bolts right in! All the wiring is finished in the interior. Will probably leave a lot of the interior as-is until I can fully test everything.


Pretty cool that everything is plug-n-play.


On to pulling the boat anchor M54B30. The first time I've ever really looked under the car. I know the previous owner "hit a curb" and it looks like the front wheel took a pretty big hit. Bummer. I wasn't going to run the ZHP wheels, I was planning on selling them, but they're generally worth more when they're round.


Exhaust was nearly impossible to get off. 20 years and it's probably never been off. With a lot of liquid wrench, I was able to get the bolts off. Thankfully, I don't see any other damage under the car.


Ugh It's so big (that's what she said).


Working on a 4-post lift is a bit of a pain, but I made it work. With the car on jackstands on the ramps, and raised up just enough to slide my cherry picker under and was able to pull it out.


Prying that ratchet strap doesn't break...yikes! (GT World Challenge on in the background there)


It's free!


What a mess...


Sadly, BMW did not win. Engine bay is super dirty


That badge


Lucked out and found a 99 323i in fantastic condition in Orient Blue with under 100k miles locally that was being parted out...


Grabbed the doors to replace mine that have a huge dent, and grabbed another slicktop headliner, so now I have two


Pulled the car out of the garage and went to town on cleaning the engine bay. Of course I forgot to take a after picture lol


My daughter and I drove up to Tacoma to pickup a new front windshield for the ZHP. Grab 'em while you can, they all went NLA. JUST barely fit in my iX.


Started work on the Honda k24a RBB3. The first step was replacing the intake cam sprocket with an RBC 50-degree version.


I had to pull off the oil pump, we won't be needing that where we're going, and tilted the motor on its side and pulled the pan only to find the motor was full of JDM land oil. What a huge mess! I should have checked to see if it had oil first, I guess. On the plus side, the oil (while dirty) had zero flakes and the pan was super clean. Good sign.


New RBC sprocket on, timing chain back on and set. You all WISH your S54s were as easy to do a timing chain like the Honda. The bottom sprocket is what the crank angle sensor uses. The intake/exhaust cam angle sensors are on the other side of the motor.


Okay, I jumped ahead a bit. I just HAD to see what it looks like with the 4Piston billet timing cover, intake manifold, and turbo bits.


It's a really good-looking engine


TracTuff billet oil filter relocation/oil cooler plate. Artec RWD K turbo manifold.


@charlie.moua.doryoku on Instagram did this valve cover for me. Rear PCV port delete, -10an top ORB PCV with baffle, removable baffle plate, finished in Type-R wrinkle red. Hit him up for all your valve cover needs, he does fantastic work.


BorgWarner EFFR 8374 62mm turbo looks massive!


Honda glory, B18C5 and the e46's k24a in the same picture?!


Okay okay, enough gawking, let's get back to work.

Adamat bellhousing adapter on, torqued, thread locked


Adamat flywheel torqued and thread locked


Sprung hub torque harmonic damper to protect the DCT clutch basket. Again, torqued and thread locked. DCT in the background on the right.


Stupid transmission went on and off like 10 times. I had to grind down part of the bellhousing to clear the Honda k24 starter.


I knew the engine/trans would fit into the car - we test fit everything in the previous chassis. So I yeeted it back into the car and immediately test-fit the intake and turbo manifold.


Like a glove


Plenty of clearance for the hood


Test fit my 3d printed left-side engine mount. Fits perfect! I do need to modify the plate a little bit, I guessed on the hole placement and I'm about 5mm high - easy fix.


Pretty cool how well the engine mount fit on the first try. I'll be using factory e46 non-m fluid-filled engine mounts


Next up, working on the engine harness. I need to swap all the LCA/subframes/arms front and rear over to M3 bits. Design the right side engine mount... it's a long list. More to come!

[liam821]

Small update. I've had no time the last few weeks, too much stuff going on. But I did finish a small project.

I needed to get the e46 M3 SMG paddle shifters working with the DCT. The SMG cars had a specific clockspring aka "Switch steering column slip ring" which passes all the steering wheel buttons but adds two more pins for the up and down paddles. Some of the newer BMWs use a single wire but add two difference resistance when pulling up or down so it's a bit more involved. Thankfully, the e46 M3 SMG is simple, each paddle has its own pin that grounds to the steering wheel (chassis) ground. Keep in mind that manual cars (non-m/M3 manuals are the same) clocksprings are different than SMG cars, which adds two more pins for each paddle. So you need to source a SMG clockspring. I thankfully had a spare.

Now the E92M3 DCT TCU paddles work the same way as the e46, connecting ground triggers an up or down shift. However, it requires the up and down paddle to use it's OWN TCU ground and not chassis ground. So I have two options: I can route the TCU ground through the steering wheel clockspring, or I can use some sort of relay that will connect it's own ground on request.

I decided not to mess with all the steering wheel wires and use a relay instead. Now I don't want to hear a "click click" of a relay every time I pull a paddle so instead let's use a mosfet instead. A mosfet, or Metal-Oxide-Semiconductor Field-Effect Transistor, is a type of semiconductor device used to amplify or switch electronic signals. It's essentially a voltage-controlled switch, where the voltage applied to the "gate" terminal controls the current flow between the "source" and "drain" terminals. It's basically just a fancy relay. And since it uses transistors, it offers fast switching speed and a longer life then your traditional relay.

So I went on a search for a mosfet to fit my needs and found that the Panasonic AQY212S will fit the bill. They cost $2/each from digikey.com. You can get them in both DIP (pin mount) AQY212EH or SMD (surface mount) AQY212S style chips. I chose the SMD style chip and use a SMD proto board to mount everything. The wiring is very simple.

[12V Switched] ----[1kΩ Resistor]-----> Pin 1 (Anode)
[Paddle Switch] ---------------------------> Pin 2 (Cathode) (to GND_CHASSIS when pressed)

Shift up/down to TCU --------------------> Pin 3 (Drain)
TCU_GND ----------------------------------> Pin 4 (Source)

The resistor on pin 1 limits the current going into the mosfet.

This is by far some of my best micro soldering I've ever done. This is not my profession, I'm a software engineer, not an electrical engineer.


Close up using my desk microscope, came in clutch doing the soldering.


Here are all the wires soldered on and wired into the car harness. I was able to test to verify that it works perfectly. I wired them into ACC 12v power, plugged in the battery, and pulled a paddle to get that satisfying beep of my multimeter! wooo


I also finished all the wiring I need. Here are the things I've added:

Center console TPMS & sport buttons. TPMS goes into the MK60 ABS module, sport button is routed into the Maxxecu.
E39 wiper stalk button is routed into the Maxxecu.
Paddle shifts which we just talked about
E92M3 dct shifter 12v ACC power is using the old automatic wiring harness, but with a Deutsch connector
DCT gear display wired into gauge cluster power/canbus (also using a Deutsch connector)

And I think that's about it. I didn't have to add/change much of the wiring in the cabin. Everything was Tesa taped together and routed just like factory. Everything looks factory, except for the Deutsch connectors. I thought about sourcing OEM-style TE/AMP connectors but it's a bit of a pain in the ass and nobody is going to see it.

The last update I have is BMW of NorthWest in Tacoma, WA FINALLY got the slicktop roof panel I ordered. Took 6 weeks to get here from Germany. It was only supposed to take two weeks, I'm assuming all the tariffs and shipping delays caused this delay as well. But I was able to grab it! One of the last left new in the world.

It came in a huge box which said "glass" with lots of padding inside, uhh is that going to fit in my X5?


Yep, no problem


Next steps is getting the dash in and starting the Maxxecu wiring engine bay side. I also need to pull the stock M54 and get the K in the engine bay. Future Liam.

[liam821]

I have had almost no time this week, so many things going on. But I still snuck out into the garage for a few hours here and there.

Clean black carpet going in. Amazing how much better it looks - even without the dash


Dash support bar back in.


Replacing the center console buttons with one from an M3. This gets me the TPMS and Sport button.


For those wondering about wiring, there is a great DIY on zhpmafia about wiring in the TPMS. It's a single wire (pin 2 of the control buttons) into the MK60 ABS pump and then some coding. Easy peasy. The sport button has two pins (17 and 18), one is the switch that goes into the DME in an input, and the other is just a low-side ground that lights up the sport LED. Since the stock BMW DME is getting the boot, the sport button is going to be wired into a Canchecked MCE18 input/output canbus expansion module and then will talk over canbus to the Maxxecu - since my Maxxecu race inputs and outputs are at a premium. I'll have the sport button configured to turn the car to max effort (full boost, exhaust cutout open, transmission in drivemode 5 etc) with a single click - "M" mode? haha

A few other goodies I wired in as well were the e39 windshield washer button, which will flip through a preset list of boost/power settings. And the most exciting button, the MDM ZCP steering wheel button, is now launch control (if stopped) and the rolling anti-lag (if moving).

[liam821]

A few more updates over the last few weeks

There is a nice dent in the ZHP's passenger door, sadly, I didn't really notice how bad it was until the car was up on the lift and the dent was right at eye level. So before that silver crashed car went off to the great dumpster in the sky I saved both passenger doors since they're in good condition.

Not much left


Sad to see


Finally got around to printing the mock up for the k24 engine mounts. My stupid 3d printer refused to print, and I was about to throw it out the window, but after nearly hitting buy-it-now on a new one, the Prusa miraculously started working correctly. This is generally how it works, it refuses to print correctly and wants to make spaghetti, I yell at it and spend a few hours releveling the bed and threatening to buy a new fancy one, and before I hit the buy button it starts printing perfectly.


Came out perfect. I'll test this out on the engine in the car before I send it off to be made


Bought the Autosports labs ESP32 canbus board soldered all the wires and cleaned up the code. Seems to be working perfectly. The Autosports board has built-in dual canbus channels and a reliable 12v input so I can write the power directly into the e46 and not have to worry about slight voltage variations or USB power.


I wanted to get some of the electronics stuff done before I start really ripping into the ZHP. First up was swapping to an M3 cluster so a few things needed to be done.

- Adding the rear door LEDs to the M3 cluster (M3s only came in coupes, but the gauge cluster electronics are pretty much identical between all e46s so you can solder on the LEDs and resistors and then code them)
- Modify the mileage / vin so it matches the ZHPs LCM

I built myself a gauge cluster test bench so I can do all the programming and modifications outside the car


My daughter's e46 gauge cluster died a year ago, but I kept the bad cluster, which was a super bro move for Future Liam. I needed the door LEDs


Which is which? 325i above M3 below. You can see even the 325 has the pads for warmup rev limiter and all the m3 only bits


Close-up of the 325i door lights


Close-up of the M3 door lights. You can see the two rear door LEDs are missing plus the resistors


I used solder paste and a hotair station since using an iron on such small compounds would be challenging


Here is the resistor, they're so little


All finished. Perhaps not my best work


Next up is coding. You need to remove the M35080/3 EEPROM which stores all the mileage/vin information. Again best to use a hotair station and it comes off easily


Drop the chip in a R270+ BDM programmer and you can modify the code. I leave the VIN but zero out the mileage to 0


Solder the chip back to the board, again using your hotair station, and verify all the pins are correctly attached and test. Boom looks good, zero miles. Tamper dot because vin/mileage doesn't match lcm


Using PASOFT, recode IKE using your lcm VO and VIN. (Picture before coding, but notice 0km on the M3 cluster)


Then reset the cluster and if you did everything correctly, it should grab the mileage and tamper dot should be gone. Works!


You can run a test via PASOFT/Ncsexpert to verify all the LEDs you soldered on works. rear doors works!


Dropped the cluster back in the car and drove around the block to test. Everyting works as expected


That quick test to my mailbox and back into the garage was its last drive under M54 power. Hopefully, it will leave my garage under k24 power.


Turns my attention to the front of the car. Sadly, the bumper is trashed, the bottom is ripped from curbs and where it mounts to the side clips are destroyed.


I'm going to have drag the chassis out of the garage to pressure wash and clean everything once I get the m54 turd out.


Next up is removing the interior.


Dash out


Under dash support and rear carpet out


Gotta pull the HVAC to remove the front carpet, at least without cutting it.


ugh, my garage is a disaster again



Depending on how much free time I have, in the next few weeks I'm going to be pulling the M54/auto transmission out and will start putting the new black interior back together.

[liam821]

I ordered this Skunk2 Ultra Race RWD intake manifold way back in September and it FINALLY came in.

Bosch 74mm DBW with billet adapter looking gooood


Don't mind the mess...


I had Charlie Moua https://www.instagram.com/charlie.moua.doryoku do a custom vavle cover for me. Shaved the side PCV port (it hits the e46 hvac fan) and relocated it to the top as a 10an ORB fitting under the baffle plate. The stock baffle plate was removed and a CNC zinc plate goes in. All finished in OEM Honda wrinkle red. It just shipped today but here is a picture he took for me.










Another interesting part is my pulley setup. ATI Super damper to run my alternator with a Jones Racing oil pump pully (middle) and another pulley for the a/c compressor. While two pulleys you might ask? Well the alternator is under the intake manifold and the a/c compressor is under the turbo manifold on the other side. I don't want to design a complicated belt system so this seemed like the better option.


I designed a DCT gear gauge that will fit into the stock e46m3 gauge cluster to replace the SMG display. I could use the SMG display, but it only has 6 gears and my dct has 7. Making my own I can also monitor and print any information I want via canbus to the display. It's an ESP32 board with MCP2551 canbus chip. It's code is written in CircuitPython and really pretty simple - it's like 20 lines of code. The hard part was designing all the images - basically, one image for each possible state (i.e. sport + drivelogic mode 2 + gear 3 etc). It sits on the e46 canbus looking for specific values and updates a 1.3" oled display. I'll cover the display in a red transparent color film so it looks like the stock gauges. Extremely cheap. The ESP32 board was $8 and the display was $10. I was going to design my own custom ESP32 board which had voltage regulators so it can cope with the 10-14v dc it might see plugged into the cars electrical system and have the canbus module all on one board but I found a board that does all that already done from a company called Autosport Labs. It was $49 which is expensive for what it is, but it saved me hours in development and would probably cost me more since I'd have to buy 5-10 to get a company like PCBWAY to make it.

[liam821]

The roof on the ZHP is pretty faded and there is a nice dent. The previous owner told me a truck cargo cover flew off on the freeway, that's how the dent in the hood happened, and as it flew over the car it also put a little dent in the roof. I can probably PBR the dent in the roof, but the paint is another problem. Well, I've been hoarding a slicktop sedan headliner and now is the time to use it! Apparently, the e46 sedan slicktop roof just went NLA and there are 42 left in the world - all in Germany - well now there are 41 because I just grabbed one. So if you to slicktop your sedan, now is the time! I also grabbed the front and rear top window brace and center support just in case those don't survive me ripping the stock roof off. Fun fact, the slicktop and sunroof roof covers use the same center support.

[liam821]

I can't handle the gray interior. It's gotta go. It's so dirty and gross. I attempted to clean the front leather seats and while it looked better and the microfiber cloth I used came out BROWN, but there is no saving the seats. Carpet is stained and would need to be removed for deeeeep cleaning. Also the passenger door card is falling apart. I have a set of e46m3 seats in my stash and a brand new non-armrest center console (in black) so I started looking for a full black interior. So literally the day after attempting to clean the interior I found on Facebook Marketplace a 04 325i with 74k miles, silver with a black interior, in Southern Oregon - at least it's not too far this time. The car had been in a bad frontal accident, but the interior looked great. Picked it up for a whopping $200.



She's seen some things...been sitting in a salvage yard all winter long.


Black door cars are in great shape. 325i and 330i all had the same door cards.


Carpet came out looking fantastic!


Black dash is perfect


I had the whole interior out in under 3 hours. It's like I've done it a few times now.


Somebody hit my daughters e46 in the school parking lot and broke her tail light and punched a hole in her bumper. So I'm going to swap the tail light and bumper from this sh**box into hers - bonus!

[liam821]

So back to the Orient blue ZHP. This car is perfect for my k-swap, while it runs and drives, it needs an engine. I'll continue to daily the red 330i until I finish this blue one and then list it up for sale since there is nothing wrong with it.

First step is cleaning. I need to know if this car's paint is salvageable or if it's a part out/sell whatever situation. I don't mind fixing minor issues here or there but I don't want to do a full body respray.



After the car was clean I was like oh sh$$, the paint is destroyed. Swirl marks, fading, and it looked absolutely awful. Here is a close up.


I did a paint correction on the trunk, one rear quarter, and half the hood. And holy cow, the results were incredible!


The paint looks great


Can you tell which side I didn't do? The "clouds" on the left side is a reflection of the clouds in the sky. The whole front was PPFd at some point, you can see how badly the bumper was. All the cracking is PPF cracking. I'll have to see if I can get that off or if I'll need to repaint the bumper. Also you'll notice that the front bumper is sorta hanging there... the owner's daughter pulled it off by driving over the top of a curb. oops


Super cloudy 40 degrees Oregon day so the paint isn't popping in the pictures, but it really does look great


Only 102,736 miles!

[liam821]

haha I KNOW I have a problem. I picked up this Oxford Green 325i hoping the paint would be okay, but it turned out to be in awful condition. Tons of Bondo on one side, accident although "no accident" on car fax, trunk paint didn't match. I owned it for a few weeks and ended up selling it.

I'm still on the hunt for a CLEAN Oxford Green ZHP and if I find one I might jump on it but we'll see...

A solid 15 footer

[liam821]

Well, it happened again. This is what I get when I'm on the internet late at night. I found a 2005 330i ZHP in Orient Blue with 102k miles in Tucson AZ for a grand. The condition was rough. It had a radiator/coolant problem and the owner's daughter didn't notice and it overheated and hurt the engine. While it runs and drives great but only for about 15 minutes before the pressure in the coolant system because too much. The seller didn't know what a ZHP was nor did he know it was just one of 199 made in Orient Blue, so he sold it cheap, and I got lucky. I called the owner up on a Monday and told him I'd be there Wednesday morning with cash. Left Portland around lunchtime on Tuesday and busted the 1440 mile drive in 17 and a half hours and was picking the car up Wednesday morning.



The paint was rough, lots of swirl marks, and the roof was badly faded. You can see it might be pretty under there somewhere.


Gray interior, not my favorite (sorry Gray interior fans). The rear isn't too bad.


The front, however, is pretty gross. It's like they never cleaned the leather, ever. And


Alcantara steering wheel is so disgusting - it feels like clay!


Nice dent on the hood I'm going to have to deal with


Made it safely home in the middle of that huge winter storm the PNW had without issue. The two finally meet.


I know it's ridiculous, but I have 5 e46s now...

[liam821]

I know I haven't updated this in a while, but a lot is going on in the background...here is the last few months!

I couldn't handle that stupid Pioneer head unit. It was awful so I ripped it out. And holy wiring mess, batman!


So much wiring, it was all removed


I bought an Eonon Android headunit, which for $119, is amazing. I only use it for Carplay, which is does perfectly. I'm still not totally sold on the size, but it's easy to use, easy to see. It is capable of running the Maxxecu MDash Android software, so it can serve as an information screen to help with tuning, gauge readouts, etc


I also replaced the steering wheel with my old M3 Alcantara wheel. So much better. It's amazing what a steering wheel can do.


If it wasn't for the shifter and gauge cluster, you'd never know it wasn't an M3


Speaking of Maxxecu. I finally got my Maxxecu Race. I got the MS43 plug-and-play model. Which you might be asking yourself why, since I won't be using the factory engine. Well, it plugs right into all the BMW chassis side harnesses, and I'm in the middle of making a custom Honda k24 to BMW X60003 engine ms43 harness. So the Maxxecu and k24 engine combination should be plug and play into the factory harness. No crazy slicing of wire, everything plug and play, and all factory functions should work


Plug and play MS43 adapter


Bosch 74mm DBW throttle body, grabbed this from FCPEuro for a Porsche 997.1 Turbo, Bosch part number 0280750474. They're only $137!


Some other goodies have shown up. Artec k20 RWD manifold and AGP EFR vband turbine housing. This manifold is insane. It's beautifully made, compact, almost equal length, cast stainless steel, with excellent wastegate priority, and flows enough for 1000hp.


The manifold and housing aren't any good without a turbo... After much debate, I ended up with a BorgWarner EFR 8374. 62mm capable of 800hp


Fits nicely




Since this car is a 2003, it was missing auto on/off headlights. I kept leaving the headlights on so I replaced the LCM with a new model. I need to replace the front window so I can add the front rain and light sensor, but for now, at least the headlights turn on and off with the key so I don't accidentally leave them on any more


Designed a spacer so I was able to install an e92m3 DCT drive mode selector in the e46 M3 SMG trim.


This is an e60m5 SMG shift knob custom done in black with an alcanata base, on an e92m3 DCT shifter, with ZHP silvercube center trim and e46m3 SMG center trim piece with an e92m3 DCT drive select. I'm going to paint the gray SMG trim flat black, same color as the M3 steering wheel, and the chrome ring I think gloss back to match the shifter


Not very interesting, but I grabbed a e92m3 DCT driveshaft. I'm going to have a local shop modify it so I can use the rear section of the e46m3 shaft, and the front of the e92m3. It will connect in the middle and use a stock M3 center support bearing.


The last few weeks I've been designing a custom new engine harness. A giant spreadsheet with sensor this and that pin to this plug using a TXL wire in the length of whatever. It's a complicated harness with lots of sensors. I've maxed out every input and output on the Maxxecu Race! I'm ordering a CANChecked CanBus extension so I can add a few more sensors. I'll share more soon...

[liam821]

Pulled the valve cover off the JDM k24a RBB3 engine and had a peak inside. Looks pretty clean!


Some wear on the vtec lobe, but everything is very clean








E92m3 DCT is massive!


Used black trim restore (half done, half original) What a difference that made


Did a paint correction as well (left side original)


Paint is actually in fantastic condition






Did take any pictures, because it was an awful job dirty job, but I replaced the radiator and coolant expansion tank. Both were leaking (e46 things). I also took it to Oregon DMV and got it registered so I'll finally get to replace the Washington license plates as soon as my plates come in the mail.

Ordered a few more bits and bobs, the major things I'm waiting for are the misc coolant and oil pieces I need to mate the Honda engine to the BMW coolant/heater/oil cooler. Lots of planning to make sure it goes smoothly. I also think I figured the AC situation, turns out the 2008-2010 525i ac compressor uses the same plugs as the e46, but has a 7 rib pulley just like the k24. I'll get one ordered here soon and design a mount in Fusion.

[liam821]

Picked up more parts!

A large case 210mm 3.25 ratio ring and pinion (H64) from an e34. This will go into a rebuilt e46m3 differential to get the final drive ratio down to 3.25 from stock of 3.62. Why so low? Because 7th gear in the DCT is 1:1 whereas 6th in the 420g is 0.83. The e92m3 DCT uses the short ratio DCT gearbox, and they're short! So you need a longer final drive. Stock e92m3 dct final drive is 3.154, I wanted a little higher than that because a turbo K doesn't have as much torque down low as the torqueless s65 V8.

Here is what the speed looks like in each gear at 3500 rpms.


H64 pinion


H64 ring gear


I don't like the buttons on the steering wheel, so I picked up a brand new upper and lower ZCP steering wheel trim from BMW - I can't believe you can still buy this stuff new! The M-Mode button will be wired into the Maxxecu for rolling antilag.


And because I like cruise control, a Z4 cruise control stalk (DIY here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...steering-wheel )


My 330i has heated seats, which we'll be keeping but in the form of heated M3 seats, but I wanted to add a TPMS and a Sport button. You can enable TPMS in the MK60 with some wiring in the non-m e46s (DIY here: https://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/show...e-doityourself ). The sport button will toggle an exhaust valve in the muffler.


Also picked up an e39 wiper stalk with an S button. The S-button will be wired into the Maxxecu to switch between boost maps. I'll probably have the Maxxecu move the tach to 1,2,3,4,5 etc for a second or two to indicate whatever the boost map is set to.

[liam821]

I sold my silver e46 sedan which was in the process of getting a Honda k24 swap because, you guessed it, the k24/dct will be going into this red car. You can catch up on the work done so far here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ct-turbo-build

All the test mounting has been with a k24a4, out of Honda CRV. Well we can't have that. So I picked up a jdm k24a RBB3, the high performance 2.4-liter version!




More to come!

[liam821]

Replaced the shifter bezel trim that was broken in half and installed a new center console I found in my spare parts bin in the garage. I also ordered a $15 cup holder off Amazon, which doesn't match exactly right, so I'll have to order an OEM one but this will do for now. I'm still going to do a center console armrest delete (Had to order all those parts) since I hate that stupid foldable armrest thing, but for now at least I was able to remove that nasty one it had in the car.

I also ordered a center support driveshaft bearing and a new guibo. The center support bearing is DONE, like done done. So we'll get that fixed and might as well replace the guibo at the same time since I'm right there and it's only a few bucks. And sure enough, the check engine light came on (I've only had it for a few days so of course it did) with an error about the secondary air injection pump. Had a look and the hose that connects the pump to the canister had a hole in it and literally fell apart in my hand. So I got that ordered as well. So the car will sit in my garage for a few days waiting for parts.