Karter16's Silbergrau E46 M3 Journal

[0-60motorsports]

They're from the standard 3 series coupe - M Sport interior - 9002 Alcantara (which is very close in colour to the Amaretta on the CSL seats) and the same Laser cloth.


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Ah ok got it. Not going to be easy to find lol

[karter16]

Looks awesome. What are the rear seats from? They look like a good alternative to the OE CSL seats.

They're from the standard 3 series coupe - M Sport interior - 9002 Alcantara (which is very close in colour to the Amaretta on the CSL seats) and the same Laser cloth. G7AT is the upholstery code.


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[0-60motorsports]

Looks awesome. What are the rear seats from? They look like a good alternative to the OE CSL seats.

[karter16]

So yesterday I dropped round to an NZ forum member's house to pick up the CD stacker he kindly offered me. Another member was there as well, so was great to meet them both and talk BMWs and see their amazing cars 😍

And today is the final day of my summer holiday before I head back to work. This morning before it got too hot I finally got around to doing the work on the rear seat. First up I removed the black leather seats and bolsters, and then I was able to install the rear seat sound mat that arrived a couple of months ago. It fits really well and was no problem to install, at less than half the weight of the rubber/butyl one and not likely to disintegrate like the original I'm very happy with this:





You can see there are a couple of cut outs that aren't needed on the M3, presumably they are for the E46 compact or similar, but aside from that it all fits in very nicely.

I was then able to install the G7AT interior (which I've been cleaning and drying over the last week) from NZ_M3 and now finally have an (almost) matching interior.

I took the covers off the headrests and put them through the washing machine (gentle cycle, no spin) and wet vac'd the bolsters, seat bench and backs.













The bolsters needed new clips at the tops, as they seem to ALL break. I ordered new ones in one of my orders last year, so had these on the shelf ready to go. Originals were black, these new ones are white, maybe they're also stronger 🤣


Then it was just a case of putting everything in, and soon it was all done! (apologies for the terrible photos and dusty car, am rebuilding a retaining wall at the moment and the clay dust gets into everything).










I also got to take the car for a drive today. With the work I've done on the drivers door, and the cloth rear upholstery, a good 90% of the rattles and such that were present in the car seem to be gone! I thought there were going to be a bunch still to hunt down, but appears I have one in the dash by the drivers door, and aside from that any other noises were pretty infrequent!


Now I just need to give the car a good wash!

[heinzboehmer]

Nice work!

Those battery T bolts love to snap off. There's some aftermarket replacements though, like this one: https://www.bimmerworld.com/Safety-R...le-T-Bolt.html

Can probably also find them on amazon, eBay etc. I've got a bunch of them in the garage for the next time I break one off.

[karter16]

I spent some time this afternoon getting some bits and pieces done.

First up I installed the extension wiring loom for the side mirror control relocation from the driver's door to the CSL centre console. For the wiring loom I sourced, nearly, matching wire colours. I wasn't able to get blue with a green stripe, so went for plain light blue instead.




I bundled up the 4 wires into a loom, wrapping them with fleece tape as I went.




I then attached the connector I found that's a match for the OE one to the end that connects to the mirror control switch.




I then started at the console end, working the loom down the centre tunnel to the pedal box (cable tying as I went to stop it rattling). @Avedis's DIY guide is excellent and I referred to it frequently as I went.




And then across and out through the door pillar conduit.




Getting it through the rubber conduit was fairly easy, you just need something like a coat hanger to help guide it through. From there I routed it through the door (again cable tying as I went). I then cut it to length and attached the pins for the female socket. The MQS connectors, like many, are supposed to have the pins crimped with a special tool (like many various connector types). When you've done it before as I have it's fairly straightforward to tack the wires to the pins with a little solder and then crimp the pins with some pliers, like so (note, not all are finished in this photo):





And voila! the extension loom is complete:




I then hooked it up and wrapped it up with some more fleece tape to make sure it's held fast and won't knock about:




Connect up the switch and pop it in and we're all done!










While I had the driver's door apart I also took the opportunity to replace the missing bowden cable clip (as per here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...le-clip-broken), as well as tighten up the regulator bolts and adjust the latch in an effort to make my door sound more like my passenger side door and less like a glazing truck that has been in an accident. It's a lot better, but still not as nice as the passenger side. I think further improvement will need to wait for total disassembly and replacement of the regulator and latch mechanism.

When I put the door panel back on I replaced the clips with the improved version that have foam dampening rings on them:







I also popped in the new window switch to replace the one that had surface damage from when the mirror leaked prior to my ownership.

If I get some more time over the weekend I'll get to work on the rear seat.

Oh, and just cause no project is complete without an issue, when I was tightening up the negative terminal on the battery the tensioner bolt thing snapped off (guess I've been using it too much due to so many projects), so now I need to get a new one of these 😑

[0-60motorsports]

Over the break I've been pretty busy working on the house and having fun times with the family. Since finishing the rear view mirror I've done a few bits and pieces on the car.

I've pulled the 6CD changer and bluetooth module out of the boot. I have no need for them right now, and indeed I have to pull the CD changer apart and figure out what's wrong with it. I've therefore packaged them up and shelved them, along with the two big brackets. Might as well save on the weight while the car is not completely stock.

Relatedly I've also been doing some CAD work to mock up some brackets for the OE amplifier. I could buy the BMW part, but it weighs half a kilo and would cost me $75, whereas if I 3D print some brackets they'll weigh next to nothing and will be free.

I've done a first mockup to check fitment etc. and even at 3mm thickness it's held in surprisingly well. I'll make a number of design revisions and add a bunch of reinforcement and hopefully get a final design.







I also took the passenger seat out of the car today to do a bit of work on the back seat. I've removed the ISOFIX fittings as they have surface corrosion and need cleaning up and repainting. While the seat was out I also took the opportunity to examine the tilting bracket.

The CSL seats seem to have a tendency over time to develop a bit of a clunk, which doesn't really come up in normal driving but if you move fairly violently in the seat, or are driving very spiritedly then it can occur. From my investigations this seems to be caused by two things.

Primarily it is caused by the catch on the tilting mechanism, this seems to wear a little over time and then allow some movement which causes the clunk. I don't know if there's already a community DIY fix for this as I wasn't able to find anything on CSLRegistry or the like about it, other than an acknowledgement that it happens. Anyway, I was able to come up with my own fix, a short length of fleece tape wrapped around the fixture like this:








The second, more minor, contributor to this is the front pegs that the arms which attach to the tilting mechanism rotate on. The pegs are surprisingly small, and again seem to wear over time. This allows for a small amount of movement. In practice I don't think that this really contributes much to noise or felt movement, but thought I'd have a go at addressing it anyway.




It's only a very small amount that it needs to be cylindrically shimmed. To address this I used a small amount of tin foil wrapped around the peg. This compresses when you fit the arm and takes up the gap. Being aluminium I expect over time it will wear as the tilting mechanism is used (which will probably only be once a year when the WOF man checks the rear seat belts). Hopefully though the aluminium wears away and the steel doesn't further.





It seems like a fairly ghetto fix, but once it was all back together I gave it a good wiggle and it seemed solid. I did a few back and forths on the tipping mechanism and it still seemed good. I then put the seat back in the car and sat in it and jerked about and the clunking is gone! Mission accomplished!

I'll do the same to the drivers seat when I take it out to do the wiring for the side mirror controls which should be imminent. Just waiting on delivery from Schmiedmann of replacement clips etc. for the drivers door, which I'll do at the same time to address the clunk in the door. Hopefully by the weekend I'll get the brackets for the amp sorted and the G7AT rear seat into the car, plus the wiring done for the mirror controls.

Thanks for posting this! I have this issue with the driver side CSL seat and will be trying this fix for sure. Cheers.

[karter16]

Over the break I've been pretty busy working on the house and having fun times with the family. Since finishing the rear view mirror I've done a few bits and pieces on the car.

I've pulled the 6CD changer and bluetooth module out of the boot. I have no need for them right now, and indeed I have to pull the CD changer apart and figure out what's wrong with it. I've therefore packaged them up and shelved them, along with the two big brackets. Might as well save on the weight while the car is not completely stock.

Relatedly I've also been doing some CAD work to mock up some brackets for the OE amplifier. I could buy the BMW part, but it weighs half a kilo and would cost me $75, whereas if I 3D print some brackets they'll weigh next to nothing and will be free.

I've done a first mockup to check fitment etc. and even at 3mm thickness it's held in surprisingly well. I'll make a number of design revisions and add a bunch of reinforcement and hopefully get a final design.







I also took the passenger seat out of the car today to do a bit of work on the back seat. I've removed the ISOFIX fittings as they have surface corrosion and need cleaning up and repainting. While the seat was out I also took the opportunity to examine the tilting bracket.

The CSL seats seem to have a tendency over time to develop a bit of a clunk, which doesn't really come up in normal driving but if you move fairly violently in the seat, or are driving very spiritedly then it can occur. From my investigations this seems to be caused by two things.

Primarily it is caused by the catch on the tilting mechanism, this seems to wear a little over time and then allow some movement which causes the clunk. I don't know if there's already a community DIY fix for this as I wasn't able to find anything on CSLRegistry or the like about it, other than an acknowledgement that it happens. Anyway, I was able to come up with my own fix, a short length of fleece tape wrapped around the fixture like this:








The second, more minor, contributor to this is the front pegs that the arms which attach to the tilting mechanism rotate on. The pegs are surprisingly small, and again seem to wear over time. This allows for a small amount of movement. In practice I don't think that this really contributes much to noise or felt movement, but thought I'd have a go at addressing it anyway.




It's only a very small amount that it needs to be cylindrically shimmed. To address this I used a small amount of tin foil wrapped around the peg. This compresses when you fit the arm and takes up the gap. Being aluminium I expect over time it will wear as the tilting mechanism is used (which will probably only be once a year when the WOF man checks the rear seat belts). Hopefully though the aluminium wears away and the steel doesn't further.





It seems like a fairly ghetto fix, but once it was all back together I gave it a good wiggle and it seemed solid. I did a few back and forths on the tipping mechanism and it still seemed good. I then put the seat back in the car and sat in it and jerked about and the clunking is gone! Mission accomplished!

I'll do the same to the drivers seat when I take it out to do the wiring for the side mirror controls which should be imminent. Just waiting on delivery from Schmiedmann of replacement clips etc. for the drivers door, which I'll do at the same time to address the clunk in the door. Hopefully by the weekend I'll get the brackets for the amp sorted and the G7AT rear seat into the car, plus the wiring done for the mirror controls.

[AntRyv]

Phenomenal work truly!

[karter16]

When I bought my car in 2015 the auto-dimming mirror glass in the rear view mirror had already failed. For the last 8 years I've been driving the car around with no auto-dimming and a big bubble in the mirror. Because I like to address things promptly I recently ordered a replacement electrochromic mirror glass unit. There are a couple of vendors who specifically supply these, I believe that MirrorJohn is the most well known. My research also brought up some discussion that the unit that these vendors sell is the same thing as is available for significantly less from the likes of AliExpress.

I decided to take a punt and ordered from AliExpress. A week or so later this showed up:





It looked the part. I did notice that the two layers of the glass were slightly offset and initially thought this was due to poor assembly. In actual fact it is intentional and is how the positive and negative rails are exposed and attached.

The last few days I have gotten around to doing the replacement. It's a fairly easy process so long as you are careful and take your time. I wrote a DIY guide which you can find here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...g-mirror-glass

Removing the mirror from the car is easy, removing the front bezel less so. The bezel is held on with a series of little plastic clips. With the plastic having become fragile over time, and BMW not designing the unit to be taken apart, the clips have a tendency to break.













With the unit disassembled it's then just a case of removing the PCB bracket from the old mirror glass:




And then preparing it for affixing to the new mirror.




The existing writeups on replacing the mirror glass are then very light on this next key step which is to affix the PCB bracket to the new mirror. It's important to get this right so that the forward facing light dependent resistor is aligned correctly. I solved this by essentially reassembling the unit with the PCB in place. I then clipped the bracket to the PCB and used the front bezel to help align the mirror.

Then it was just back to reassembly. As I mentioned I broke some of the clips when disassembling (this seems as though it's pretty inevitable). MirrorJohn's advice is to glue the bezel back on, but I didn't like that suggestion as it would stop me from opening up the mirror again in the future. So I decided to come up with something better.


I used some brass pins from a 2.54mm PCB header and heated them up and embedded them into the stubs of the broken clips. I then used Araldite to secure them in place. This worked beautifully and the bezel clips securely in place. Very happy with the end result.




The rest of the mirror reassembly is straightforward and in no time I had it back in the car.

The auto dimming feature is really cool - the AliExpress unit seems to work well (not that I can talk to longevity) - I'm glad I didn't fork out more than twice as much for what certainly appears to be the same thing!

[heinzboehmer]

Would the difference in ram be noticeable if only using the unit to boot directly into wireless Carplay as soon as the car is on?

Carplay (and Android Auto) is basically just a screen mirroring service. Your phone does all the graphics/audio processing and then streams encoded video to the display. The display does send some info (like touch input, light/dark mode, etc.) back, but all the heavy lifting is done by your phone. 2GB should be enough for Carplay duties.

This of course assumes a properly optimized OS, video decoder, etc. on the nav unit. As far as I know, all these aftermarket Carplay headunits are running a lightly modified version of AOSP, so you should be good there too.

[karter16]

Would the difference in ram be noticeable if only using the unit to boot directly into wireless Carplay as soon as the car is on?

I can't say for sure as I've not got both units to compare between. 2GB doesn't seem like much these days, but as you say it doesn't have to do all that much. It would be useful if there was more information available as to what differences there are with the automotive grade hardware as then could make a more informed choice.

Maybe we can convince Obioban to open his up 🤪


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[Slideways]

Yeah I did actually - looked at both options and decided that 8GB of ram on the IX (as opposed to 2GB on the PE) trumped the “automotive grade” hardware of the PE - not that I could actually find out much about the difference.


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Would the difference in ram be noticeable if only using the unit to boot directly into wireless Carplay as soon as the car is on?

[karter16]

Looking forward to your review on the headunit. Did you consider the "automotive grade" version? - https://xtrons.com/bmw-rover-mg-andr...b-rom-pe8246bl

Yeah I did actually - looked at both options and decided that 8GB of ram on the IX (as opposed to 2GB on the PE) trumped the “automotive grade” hardware of the PE - not that I could actually find out much about the difference.


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[Slideways]

Looking forward to your review on the headunit. Did you consider the "automotive grade" version? - https://xtrons.com/bmw-rover-mg-andr...b-rom-pe8246bl