Cockroach Individual M3 3/18 string align, ancient "d"evolve airbox

[samthejam]

I have a used BBK on the way Stoptech ST40, looks like 355x32mm rotors. I am archiving the part numbers I might need here for reference as I know availability is getting rough.

Just want it it to be saved somewhere, I can get to on my phone.

Looks like the kit is:

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Brakes/BMW-StopTech-Big-Brake-Kits-BBK/StopTech-Big-Brake-Kit-Front-M3-E46-355X32-ST40_7.html

83.137.4700

Aerohats:
37.137.7415

355x32mm Slotted Left Aerorotor with hardware:
SRT31.737.1101.99

355x32mm Slotted Right Aerorotor with hardware
SRT31.737.1102.99

Girodisc Brake Rotor Set with Hardware:
- GD355.32.52

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Slotted-Rotor-Rings-Girodisc-355x32.html

Pad Info:
Hawk Pad Shape: 650
PFC Pad Shape: 447
Pagid: 1204

https://www.bimmerworld.com/ssearch.html?query=st40+Pads

" FMSI D372, D447, D609. Fits:
1994-98 Audi RS2
1994-96 Ferrari 456 GT Coupe Rear
and many Porsche models, including:
1996-98 911 Carrera 4 rear
1991 911 Turbo
1986 928 S
1987-91 928 S4
1990-91 928 GT
1989-91 944 Turbo
1992-95 968 Sport
Also fits the Stoptech ST40 caliper.

| Brand | Part # | Description |
|-------------|-------------------|--------------------------------------------------------|
| PFC | 0447.08.17.44 | 08 Compound – Endurance racing, low wear |
| PFC | 0447.11.17.44 | 11 Compound – All-purpose racing, flat torque |
| Hawk | HB141U.650 | DTC-70 – Max bite, aggressive track use |
| Hawk | HB141G.650 | DTC-60 – High torque, better modulation |
| Hawk | HB141N.650 | HP Plus – Street/track hybrid |
| Hawk | HB141B.650 | HPS 5.0 – Performance street pad |
| Ferodo | FCP372H | DS2500 – Street/light track, refined feel |
| Pagid | U1204 14 | RS14 – High bite, ceramic-based race pad |
| Pagid | 63-910-0609 | RSL29 – Endurance compound, consistent wear |
| Porterfield | AP372-R4 | R4 – Full race pad |
| Porterfield | AP372-R4S | R4-S – Street/autocross pad, rotor friendly |
| Centric | 105.06090 | Posi Quiet Ceramic – Low dust, street use |
| StopTech | 334.0609.17.0 | SR34 – Full race pad, high bite, low wear |


I'm pretty sure there is a spec series, not sure if its a 928, 944, or 968. "

PFC 11:
-0447.11.17.44


Brake Line Set for front:
950.34005 (this is wrong this is for stock calipers)
950.34000 (this is for st40 kit)

Caliper Rebuild Kits:
They seem available but you need to know if long or regular piston? Different diameters from 26-40mm?

https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?manufacturers_id=2&srsltid=AfmBOoreRSya8 OkJPSKmsWSSIvjCikHMGOAQIwcrM2lIpgm9mnzTwUEB

Caliper Bracket part #s:
36.137.7419

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/classifieds/members-parts-for-sale-wtb/e46/251924-stoptech-front-st40-bbk-new-girodisc-rotors

Caliper Assemblies in Black:
ST-40 caliper, 38/44mm pistons, black, 32mm wide, trailing R (ACS.43E.1154)
ST-40 caliper, 38/44mm pistons, black, 32mm wide, trailing L (ACS.43E.1153)

Hardware:???????????????

https://images.carid.com/stoptech/info/pdf/catalog.pdf

[samthejam]

One of my fave build threads by far, all the pictures and background make the whole thing so much more "real"

Glad you are enjoying following along!

[nextlvel]

One of my fave build threads by far, all the pictures and background make the whole thing so much more "real"

[samthejam]

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Did some research and found some Porsche Bilsteins that fit. I did the same thing for my E28 since it did not have much aftermarket support, Porsche shocks are great to adapt as they are valved fairly stiff since Porsches have an engine in the back. They are also shorter, but the bumpstop engagement looks perfect. I went with the stiffest one I could find as I have a stiff rear spring. Older 911s have a lot of different options for OTS Bilsteins.

Just got back from a test drive, best the car has ever felt. Firm but supple ride, way more rear grip. Just feels good. I had to get some adapters but got lucky with scamazon.

[samthejam]

Dude, run 17s. So much cheaper. 275/40R17 660s are $1100 shipped from Tire Rack.

I'm not against it, just using the wheels I have

[bigjae46]

Dude, run 17s. So much cheaper. 275/40R17 660s are $1100 shipped from Tire Rack.

[samthejam]

Howdy y'all another update.

So I ended up getting the Continental Extreme Force Contact, 275/35R18. They were on sale. Fuck modern 200tws tire sizing, they must be like 285s. My last set of direzza were "265s" but look a lot different than the Rs4s that are mounted on same wheels. Anyways, so I took out the spacers not a big deal but fucking annoying. I should've got the 265/35R18 RT660s that were also on sale but wanted something a bit more endurance focused for this go around on tires.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

During that I noticed my RR balljoint was fucked. Had quite a bit of play, explained why the car was so loose last time I took it out.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

So I ordered a toolset from Amazon and Lemforder Balljoints, was very happy to see Made in Germany on the Box!


My friend with less than a weeks notice suggested we go to FD to spectate Road Atlanta, and I realized I hadn't taken a day off yet this year. I also wanted to help jayjaya29 finish his S54, we are pretty close talk to eachother almost everyday about our cars, life etc.. The progress had naturally slowed down with his new child, and he needed the car mobile to maintain his other cars. He has helped me out in so many ways the least I could do was a weekend slam to get it out on its first test drive. So the plan was, get car aligned Thursday. Leave Friday, do the weekend stuff and cannonball home Monday a standard Atlanta trip for me.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


Not a big fan of FD, but a big fan of supporting this amazing track and people using it. It was a good time.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


Now back to the car. Before I left, I saw the LR shock was leaking there was oil up the 3 or 4th threads. Which sucks. We had the car packed down with 3 people, luggage, all my tools, spare tires etc. The shock did not make it. When we arrived to Atlanta it was dripping oil onto the floor. It had a slight knocking noise under big bumps, I felt it during a driver swap sleeping in back seat. The car was also pulling to the left, Lins Automotive was open and by the track so I stopped by to get a last minute alignement. I called Friday ahead for notice and they were very cool about it.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


Other than that, no real issues on the trip. Thing pulls strong, we had some stretches of open roads still pulling up the factory Vmax that is deleted, but didn't have the balls to go past it.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

When I left ForumlaD, one of the drift shops by there had $100 dyno pulls. So I pulled in and let er eat. They strapped down the factory lower camber arms, so pretty sure rear alignment moved a bit but luckily they didn't bend visually.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

The guy at the shop said they usually dyno at 260 there which seemed very low, but I had no baseline so who knows. Anyways Pretty happy with that, I am told if I do a cold air intake like AFE or something there is some more. However K.I.S.S, stock airbox is very serviceable.


Back to the shock, by the time I was back home in Louisiana. The noises it was making was not good, and the last stretch to my house in Houston was rough but we made it.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

The shock is quite rust proofed. I need the car in less a month at Road Atlanta and I want it up quick and cheap. I think I have come up with a solution, I will post that next if it is successful. Trying to save up for MCS new or find a good pair used so want to just get moneys worth out of this set.

That puddle of oil off to the side is from just setting the shock over. It still has gas pressure but it is hemorrhaging fluid.

It got 22mpg with me using cruise going 80-90. My friend drove it briefly on the way up and he got 24mpg doing 60-70.

[bigjae46]

Poly is trash. Stay OE rubber or go with the Turner spherical.

[samthejam]

So these Bimmerworld TrackCABs have been pretty terrible. They just don't hold up well for me. Even if installed flush they will work their way out and eventually start to wear a groove in them.

Remember how I just did these a couple months ago?

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Well here is the driver side.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Already a groove and itll do a popping thing under braking. You can't replicate it with a pry bar, its fucking annoying in daily use until it gets really really bad. . Luckily a set of used FCABs came up here on the forum, a set of AKG ones already installed in some housings.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Installed those last nights laying in the rain in the driveway, hopefully these will hold up better. I also bent back out the heat shield for passenger side FCAB. I think that whole shield will just need to be replaced.

[samthejam]

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

So my tire situation was in pretty dire shape. I asked around on facebook and SQ13 had some older 265/35R18s. They're older Acceleras like 7 years old but tread, so perfect enoough to get me around in interim until I can get a new set of 200tw.

This was an adventure in itself getting them back here.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Then I stacked the wheels in...
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

I have a bunch of extra SSRs but they don't match.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

I really liked the silver in the front. More on that later.

Next I wanted to tackle the ducting so went to my friend Alejandros house, and he had something I could use as well as a bunch of other hardware and little bullshit.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

I could not stare at the mistmatched wheels any longer, so I got the spray can out.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


I also realized I was losing my mind driving the car making changes trying to feel differences. I started to just wonder if the methodology I was using, to tune it which was mainly adjusting ignition timing because that's what I saw in the other tune. This just seemed like the wrong approach with the amazing vanos system on this engine. So I gave up and decided it was best for my time and sanity to outsource this.

So I bit the bullet and got a tune from @HassanEido. Absolutely wonderful experience, Feels great and my car has all the factory safeties. The level of transparency, communication from a tuner is something I have never seen before. So that has been great, going to start looking locally to find a dyno shop so he can get it perfect but so far the canned tune feels great.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

[Bry5on]

For tuning, smart to keep it simple with mild changes. Unfortunately it's very difficult to tell exactly when/where the DME is pulling timing because the sampling rate of the d-bus is so slow. The adaptation values for timing pull it based on events then slowly try to return back to 0 as I understand it, making tuning a little tough. These motors are also pretty sensitive to air/fuel ratio at part throttle, so if you're playing with timing and getting a better burn, you might need to add a bit of fuel. A user named Pavlo produced a pretty nice guide for doing basic part throttle fuel tuning which is super helpful, but won't replace a Wideband O2 to really nail it. Good luck!

[bigjae46]

I will grab that A/C Condensor just to have as a spare. I want to try and clean mine in the car if possible, but if it is pretty worn out than can put in yours.

Do you happen to have your original bellypan by chance?

No belly pan.

I’ve found cleaning the radiators helps a little but replacing it makes a much bigger impact. Really need to remove and then shake the crap out.

What do I have to do to get that headliner?

[samthejam]

I have an AC condenser that is in decent shape. That will help.

The biggest problem is you probably have a lot of high pressure air under the hood which stalls flow through the radiator and oil cooler. The E9X M3 ducts the oil cooler underneath the car out of the engine screening. That would help.

The other thing that helped a lot was swaintech coating my headers and reinstalling the heat shields. Then relocating the expansion tank to the drug bin and then replacing it with a 2l Canton tank helped a bunch. Also can run a higher pressure cap.

I will grab that A/C Condensor just to have as a spare. I want to try and clean mine in the car if possible, but if it is pretty worn out than can put in yours.

Do you happen to have your original bellypan by chance?

[samthejam]

I also see I am missing a fuck ton of the ducting, Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


Mine doesn't even have the lower piece that directs air towards the oil cooler/rad, it's broken. Missing the side pieces and the undertray so going to source all that.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

[samthejam]

So, the path to tuning begins. I loaded the canned tune, which is for a Bimmerworld Race Exhaust with the same headers. I have the Street/Track exhaust, so I expected it to be close. I immediately had to switch to the stock throttle map, I preferred that much much more.

I didn’t feel a meaningful difference at WOT. If anything, near redline it felt like it pulled less hard. It wasn't burying the needle to 8k anymore, felt like it wanted to be shifted a bit early. However, part-throttle response was improved. I also saw the knock adaptation quickly start pulling timing. I came across a thread showing that the CSL setting can allow it to only pull 2 degrees of timing, but I have no idea which table that is. I’m not trying to take the risk of the DME wanting to pull timing but being unable to. If I could find that out I would be much more comfortable trying the canned file, for longer. The canned file had other CSL settings, for knock related things so I am just being precautious.

In my opinion that’s not looking very good, if your tune is based on CSL PD31. If I remember correct, the max knock adaption is limited there to 2.00°cr. So it can‘t go any higher than 2.00°. So if all knock adaptions are maxed out to max, you have to much ignition advance in your tune for you engine or wrong fuel.

I got similar results with wrong fuel in tank, I mapped my CSL based tune to 102 octan (German premium fuel) and when I put 98 in my tank I also have 2.00° across all cylinders.

Since I didn’t feel any meaningful difference at WOT, and I knew the knock sensors were desensitized, and the engine was pulling timing fairly quickly, even with relatively cool ambient temps. To me, that felt too aggressive.

This tune was used in a race car for many years, so it should be good. However, this isn’t a competition car—I drive it to tracks as far as 800 miles away.

I understand these might be tricks to help the engine hit a timing target, but unless I’ve verified that it’s not knocking on a dyno, I’d prefer to play it safe until I can get it on a dyno.

Here were the knock adaptation values after doing the same test loop and similar WOT/heavy part-throttle runs using the stock tune. So there’s clearly some room for improvement, and I’m using this as a tool to sort've gauge it.

I still don’t fully understand what this adaptation means, and based on other threads, it seems like others aren’t entirely sure either. But I figure it’s better than nothing, so I used it for data since the testing conditions were pretty consistent.

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/25764-knock-ignition-adaptations

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/93397-acceptable-range-for-ignition-adaptation-values

One thing that surprised me was how much better part-throttle felt, even though the canned map didn’t have many changes to the VANOS. It basically only advanced the intake cam about 15 degrees at high RPM. The exhaust cam was barely touched—only about a degree at high load and RPM.

However, it had a fairly aggressive part-throttle ignition map, and the torque management’s optimal ignition map was also edited.

So I chose to focus a lot of my time on the part-throttle ignition map. I increased timing, but more mildly than the canned tune, and kept the high-load/high-RPM areas close to the WOT timing values. I also added a degree of commanded timing at WOT, since knock adaptation showed the DME was trying to add timing. The DME should have no issue pulling timing if needed due to fuel quality, high ambient temps, etc. I did not change the torque management, optimal ignition map or the ignition minimum map. Just the part throttle map.

As for the VANOS, I retarded the cams toward the US values at high RPM and load, but tapered them similar to the Euro maps to promote some scavenging at lower loads. At higher loads, this should be less stressful on the engine. I’ve attached a document from M3Forum where people discussed adjusting cam timing. I also richened the WOT fueling, which should help keep EGTs down and reduce stress on the drivetrain.

Why didn’t I just use the Euro VANOS maps? Good question. I know what I have now is safe. The Euro map seems to play with VANOS a lot more, presumably because they weren’t limited by the restrictive USDM cats. With my much freer-flowing exhaust, using the USDM values should be much easier on the engine.

I’d really like to do some VANOS testing on a dyno or through controlled logging to monitor airflow and see what actually benefits my setup. If I had a more standard dual exhaust system from the headers back, I’d definitely lean toward using the Euro VANOS targets.





How is it? I feel like part-throttle response is definitely improved around town, which is exactly what I was after. WOT feels like the engine is less strained compared to the canned tune. Since it’s running richer and using similar VANOS values—with just mild advance at lower loads—it should be safe. Knock values also looked good.




I understand the way I’m doing this isn’t ideal. Like I said, I’d love to get on a dyno, rent one for the day, and really find out what this setup wants.

That said, I feel like I’ve made sensible changes—nothing drastic, but ones that should only improve things and be much easier on the engine. I’ve also kept the factory safety features intact until I can test more aggressive settings in a controlled environment. I’ll attach the tune file in case anyone wants to take a look and share their thoughts. It’s a 2701, so be sure to use that definition.

This DME has a lot more going on than the one in my E28, but it’s been fun learning and experimenting so far.