Obioban's 2005 IR/IR Coupe

[Grke46m3]

Review: HTE Tuning

I made some changes this winter that necessitated a new tune (higher flow injectors, colder plugs). I decided to take the opportunity to wipe years of continual tune changes and start from a fresh (CSL) stock tune.

Hassan (HTE) tuned my best friend's car 2-3 years ago, and I was always impressed how much it felt like a stock car (only with more power). His car, far and away, felt the most “stock” feeling (in the good way) of any tuned car I've driven. So, I decided to go that route, as well.

My full hardware setup:
CSL Engine management, with MAP
OEM CSL Airbox, no flap
Higher flow injectors (Bosch 0280156063)
One step colder plugs (Denso ixu27)
Schrick 280/272 cams
SS V1 stepped headers (with a bosch wideband installed in an extra bung for data logging)
SS HJS catted section 1
SS Twin tube resonated Section 2
SS Street muffler

The injectors really threw everything for a loop compared to a “normal” tune, but Hassan was great. He had a general idea of where they would be from previous cars, but we played it safe—exactly what I want.

First, fired it up and monitored AFRs at idle. All good.
Next, fire it up and monitor AFRs while holding it at 2000 rpm. Also good.

Then, the part that I think really has set this tune apart from every previous tune I've had—road tuning! Every previous tune I've had has been WOT runs on the dyno. He spent way longer with me than I would have expected, working over and refining the tune as I drove around. Full throttle, all sorts of partial throttle, all RPM. The car feels freaking great—never stumbles, pulls from all RPM, blips readily/enthusiastically, etc. I still intend to try the drivability spreadsheet for fun (and because it'll haunt me forever if I don't), but I am dubious there's room for improvement at this point.

I also have no doubt this tune is safe. Knock sensors are left at stock values, and we have a nice, safe 12.5 AFR from ~5500rpm to redline to keep it cool and knock free on track.

Haven't had it in on a dyno, because I frankly don't care so long as it drives correctly, but the car feels STRONG.

10/10, would buy again.

Because posts need pictures:

Ian you did this all on the road? How many pulls did you do?


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[Obioban]

Land Cruiser is rolling over 200,000 miles. To keep her doing the Land Cruiser thing (being reliable), I deemed it time to do timing belt for a 2nd time.
Since I'm doing the timing belt, figured I'd do coils/plugs/valve cover gaskets/tensioners/idlers/injectors/VVT solenoids. Oh, and because I'm a scared BMW owner, also the entire cooling system (rad, thermostat, water pump, fan clutch, rubber pipes).

Anyway, I get all the front end stuff off and, after I remove the timing belt, remove the bolt that secure the timing belt tensioner (replacing that while in there).
... and metal threads come out with the bolt.

Screw in the new one and it strips at ~3 ft lbs. Neat.

I assume the next step is going to be drill/tap/timesert, but then realize the tensioner mount bolt is screwed into the oil pump. And. drilling/tapping it will deposit metal shavings into the engine, so that's out.

Alright, so at this point I've decided to replace the oil pump. But, to replace the oil pump you must drop the oil pans.
... and dropping the oil pans requires either removing the engine from the truck, or dropping the differential.

I've been wanting to rebuild the front axles anyway, so I decide to pull the front diff. To remove the axles, you have to unbolt the font control arms from the spindle, to create some clearance.

... the bushings/bearings in the front controls arms are original/200,000 mile oil, so, would be silly to put those parts back in. But, if I'm replacing them, I'm going to need an alignment. So, I might as well replace everything in the front. Cue upper control arm, lower control arm, chassis bushing, tie rods, end links, sway bar bushings, steering rack mounts, etc. Oh, and doing diff mounts since it's out.

... but oh no, if I'm doing an alignment, I might as well refresh the rear end as well. Cue rear control arms, rear panhard bar, rear sway mounts, rear tie rods.

Thusly, because of a timing belt job, I'm replacing rear axle control arms "while I'm in there".

Mid way through this project. Taking over my life, currently. Because everything is original at 200,000 miles, it's not super happy to come off.

[0-60motorsports]

Land Cruiser is rolling over 200,000 miles. To keep her doing the Land Cruiser thing (being reliable), I deemed it time to do timing belt for a 2nd time.
Since I'm doing the timing belt, figured I'd do coils/plugs/valve cover gaskets/tensioners/idlers/injectors/VVT solenoids. Oh, and because I'm a scared BMW owner, also the entire cooling system (rad, thermostat, water pump, fan clutch, rubber pipes).

Anyway, I get all the front end stuff off and, after I remove the timing belt, remove the bolt that secure the timing belt tensioner (replacing that while in there).
... and metal threads come out with the bolt.

Screw in the new one and it strips at ~3 ft lbs. Neat.

I assume the next step is going to be drill/tap/timesert, but then realize the tensioner mount bolt is screwed into the oil pump. And. drilling/tapping it will deposit metal shavings into the engine, so that's out.

Alright, so at this point I've decided to replace the oil pump. But, to replace the oil pump you must drop the oil pans.
... and dropping the oil pans requires either removing the engine from the truck, or dropping the differential.

I've been wanting to rebuild the front axles anyway, so I decide to pull the front diff. To remove the axles, you have to unbolt the font control arms from the spindle, to create some clearance.

... the bushings/bearings in the front controls arms are original/200,000 mile oil, so, would be silly to put those parts back in. But, if I'm replacing them, I'm going to need an alignment. So, I might as well replace everything in the front. Cue upper control arm, lower control arm, chassis bushing, tie rods, end links, sway bar bushings, steering rack mounts, etc. Oh, and doing diff mounts since it's out.

... but oh no, if I'm doing an alignment, I might as well refresh the rear end as well. Cue rear control arms, rear panhard bar, rear sway mounts, rear tie rods.

Thusly, because of a timing belt job, I'm replacing rear axle control arms "while I'm in there".

Mid way through this project. Taking over my life, currently. Because everything is original at 200,000 miles, it's not super happy to come off.

Thats crazy! Good luck.

[Flow]

Cue the « well that escalated quickly » meme !
Good luck, you'll have a brand new truck after that.