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Obioban's 2005 IR/IR Coupe

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  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post
    Click image for larger version

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    Bought a car. Someone made me an offer I couldn't refuse-- dealer trade in value ($3000).

    M sport, rwd, manual trans, NA, HPS, 3100 lbs. The last "real" BMW IMO.

    AC doesn't work and the back window tint is garbage. Otherwise, it's in great shape.

    I plan to replace the AC compressor this coming weekend (which a mechanic had previously diagnosed as the issue).

    ... I might try to junk yard dive a 3 stage DISA intake manifold.
    Nice, they're fun little cars. Been having fun modding mine in a different way to the M3. Very different experience when you're modding for convenience vs performance.

    Single hump or double hump? Mine has iDrive and have been running the bimmertech MMI for carplay/android auto. Works and integrates with the BMW stuff great.

    Get yourself a 135i cluster. It's exactly the same as the 128i cluster, except it has an oil temp gauge. They're cheap on eBay too. Just make sure it's lower mileage than the one in your car to avoid the hassle of desoldering the EEPROM. I've got the chip programmer if you want to ship stuff to me, but might be easier to just buy and do it yourself.

    Also, look for part outs in California. All 128i sold here were N51 cars, so they all came with the 3 stage manifold.

    There's also some popular mod to the valvetronic variable lift system, but can't remember the name of it right now...

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Click image for larger version  Name:	3.jpg Views:	11 Size:	298.5 KB ID:	223548

    Bought a car. Someone made me an offer I couldn't refuse-- dealer trade in value ($3000).

    M sport, rwd, manual trans, NA, HPS, 3100 lbs, no idrive. The last "real" BMW IMO.

    AC doesn't work and the back window tint is garbage. Otherwise, it's in great shape.

    I plan to replace the AC compressor this coming weekend (which a mechanic had previously diagnosed as the issue).

    ... I might try to junk yard dive a 3 stage DISA intake manifold.

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    ​Installed

    Up close and from face level. I swear I don't smoke, despite the dust making it look like I do...



    ​​

    Leave a comment:


  • K-Dawg
    replied
    Interesting that the Avin and Xtrons both have their logos cast into the heat sink. Hopefully this unit will be less quirky than they have been in the past. 🤞
    Last edited by K-Dawg; 06-06-2023, 09:19 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by duracellttu View Post
    You didn't want to opt for the new Carphonics upgraded OEM nav with touch screen and Apple CarPlay?
    I would if I could, but I can't.

    A couple of years ago, before the carphonics solution existed, I replaced the factory wiring harness on my car with one I made. Doing so, and eliminating the redundant modules and mounting brackets, allowed me to save ~50 lbs without losing any functionality. But it also means that I can't use the stock nav display anymore.

    If I had know the Carphonics solution was coming, I probably would not have gone down that road. But, these days... I can only use a head unit with a built in amp for the speakers.​

    Leave a comment:


  • duracellttu
    replied
    You didn't want to opt for the new Carphonics upgraded OEM nav with touch screen and Apple CarPlay?

    Leave a comment:


  • Bry5on
    replied
    Interesting. My Avin rear doesn’t look like either of those, it has the white xtrons connectors but different layout. Does/did your microphone work for taking calls while using CarPlay? Mine’s got an incredible amount of feedback

    Leave a comment:


  • 0-60motorsports
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post
    I was replacing my Avin (because, being the high quality Chinese unit it is, it has decided that it won't turn on if it's a little chilly out) with an Xtrons, and was kind of surprised that the two units were seemingly different inside.

    Fronts (Identical):

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    Rear (unrelated, everything in different locations):

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    Also, the new unit has internal wireless carplay, instead of a dongle.

    I'm sure it's pissing into the wind, but I selected this particular unit over Xtrons other offerings (or another Avin) because it supposedly uses automotive grade internals. We will see...
    Nice, Lets see how it turns out for you as my Blubus is starting to be annoying now.

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    I was replacing my Avin (because, being the high quality Chinese unit it is, it has decided that it won't turn on if it's a little chilly out) with an Xtrons, and was kind of surprised that the two units were seemingly different inside.

    Fronts (Identical):

    Click image for larger version

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ID:	220528


    Rear (unrelated, everything in different locations):

    Click image for larger version

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ID:	220529

    Also, the new unit has internal wireless carplay, instead of a dongle.

    I'm sure it's pissing into the wind, but I selected this particular unit over Xtrons other offerings (or another Avin) because it supposedly uses automotive grade internals. We will see...

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by D-O View Post
    You are wise to do it now. Our house was built in 79-80, and I must have pulled a mile of ethernet along with a half mile of coax. I got good at using fishtape and patching drywall.

    I no longer use the coax, and I am curious as to why you are installing it. The ERV looks good. You in a cold climate?

    D-O
    It's cold in the winter (below 0) and hot in the summer (above 100) here. We should benefit from it on both ends. Mostly, though, the house is going to be passive house levels of air tight-- so need it to have breathable air 🤣

    COAX is for broadcast TV, in the event that the internet goes down for an extended period. By default, it really won't be used. But, for $50 for a nice attic antenna, and $30 of coax cable... seemed like a cost effective fallback.

    Leave a comment:


  • D-O
    replied
    You are wise to do it now. Our house was built in 79-80, and I must have pulled a mile of ethernet along with a half mile of coax. I got good at using fishtape and patching drywall.

    I no longer use the coax, and I am curious as to why you are installing it. The ERV looks good. You in a cold climate?

    D-O

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    I took last week off from work, and spent 12 hours a day for the last 9 days running Ethernet/fiber/conduit/coax/sensor wire/speaker wire/power shade wire, and installing an ERV, in the house I'm building.

    I'm feeling BEAT.... but it's pretty close to done.

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  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by bmw m3 s50 View Post

    Makes sense, I was concerned about the NVH being solid mounts. I feel as I am getting older I tend to tolerate less from the car as I did when I was younger.

    Is there any other things you can recommend while being back there doing the job?
    Aftermarket parts? Not really.

    If your bushings/ball joints are original, good time to refresh them. Even if they're low mileage, at this point they're probably getting aged out.

    Leave a comment:


  • bmw m3 s50
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    I didn't notice any difference, which is praise from an NHV perspective. I generally hate solid mounts, but this seems like a place to do it in a pretty pain free manner.

    Moving the subframe up, to restore some of the geometry changes from subframe plates pushing it down and the car being lower than stock, can only be better.
    Makes sense, I was concerned about the NVH being solid mounts. I feel as I am getting older I tend to tolerate less from the car as I did when I was younger.

    Is there any other things you can recommend while being back there doing the job?

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by bmw m3 s50 View Post
    I wanted to ask your impressions on the CMP subframe solid mounts that you have installed, how is the NVH with going with solid mounts? I have stayed away from solid mounts in the past but see many members here use these subframe mounts.

    I am mapping out my restoration on my m3, I am going to do the subframe reinforcement with a diff swap and wanted to make sure I take take of everything while I am back there.
    I didn't notice any difference, which is praise from an NHV perspective. I generally hate solid mounts, but this seems like a place to do it in a pretty pain free manner.

    Moving the subframe up, to restore some of the geometry changes from subframe plates pushing it down and the car being lower than stock, can only be better.

    Leave a comment:

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