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Obioban's 2005 IR/IR Coupe

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  • Obioban
    replied
    I have attempted to bring my mod list up to date. There's probably some things I'm missing, but... it's closer than it was.

    Engine:
    OEM ( Die Wethje) CSL Airbox
    Schrick 280/272 cams
    TMS pullies
    Dr VANOS cryo treated exhaust hub
    Beisan systems lifetime VANOS sealing plate o-rings
    Beisan systems lifetime VANOS solenoid
    Beisan oil pump disk
    Beisan VANOS rattle repair kit
    Beisan VANOS seals
    Beisan timing chain tensioner guide
    TurboToy (modified ARP) cam bolts
    updated BMW high pressure vanos oil line
    lifetime CPV o-ring

    Exhaust:
    SuperSprint V1 stepped headers (swaintech coated)
    SuperSprint HJS catted V1 Section 1
    SuperSprint resonated twin tube section 2
    SuperSprint Street muffler

    Engine Management:
    CSL Engine Management
    MCCHIP-DKR Dyno tune
    OE CSL IAT
    OE CSL Map rail/sensor
    Aux/clutched fan replaced with ecu controlled (using Z4M values) spal fan
    SMG shift lights turned on
    post cat 02s turned down but left on (ready)
    secondary air pump sensor disabled
    cold start sequence disabled
    non sport throttle mapping
    sport button disabled for future alternate use
    sport mode memory enabled
    EGT tweaked for HJS Cats' allowable max temps
    Top speed limiter removed
    Dyno limiter removed
    CSL warmup light values

    Suspension:
    Fat Cat Motorsports Stage 3 Coilovers
    Springs: 375 FL, 350 FR, 700 RL, 650 RR (equal frequencies left/right, 1.97hz front, 2.10hz rear, 75% front roll couple with sway in middle of adjustment range)
    Corner balanced and preload dialed out, with equal ride heights left/right with me in the drivers seat
    Ground control street camber plates
    Ground control street RSMs
    Ground control Front sway/bushings/brackets/end links
    CSL Rear sway/bushings/brackets, with home made adjustable end link
    Sealed monoball RTABs
    Bimmerworld sealed monoball rear adjustable camber arms
    CSL Kingpins

    Steering
    ZHP/yellow tag steering rack
    25% assist reduction by shimming pressure regulator
    CHF-11 conversion
    Alcantara steering wheel

    Brakes:
    817.3 DSC unit (CSL)
    Porsche 996 calipers
    CSL/ZCP/Z4M rotors (FCP)
    stainless lines
    OE Porsche Street pads (FCP)
    track pads (FCP)
    Castrol SRF (FCP)
    Hard Motorsport Brake Ducts
    Hard motorsport backing plates

    Body:
    Evolve CF roof
    Vorsteiner CSL trunk
    Fucy CSL diffuser
    Gunmetal grills/gills
    Depo smoked front corner lights
    35% tint (3M)
    vinyl M stripes on trunk badge (stock colors, less prone to fading)
    modern BMW wheel center caps
    shark fin removed
    OEM driver’s side keyhole cover (to deter thieves)

    Wheels:
    18" RAC RG-63s in gunmetal (street)
    17" Apex ARC-8s (track)
    TMS 75mm studs

    Lights:
    TFX projectors
    55w bulbs/ballasts/ignitors in 4300k
    85w halogen highs, programmed to come on with the xenon highs
    Outer brake light ring enabled for normal braking
    Brake lights programmed to strobe under hard stops
    e9X LED license plate lights

    Interior:
    Cobra Nogaros in Imola Red leather, with factory heating pads install and adjustable lumbar
    Brey Krause Mounts on factory e46 manual sliders
    Brey Krause Rear deck harness mounts
    Alcantara wrapped header liner
    Alcantara wrapped pillars
    Alcantara wrapped rear deck
    Alcantara wrapped steering wheel
    imola leather wrapped center console
    imola leather wrapped arm rest
    imola leather wrapped ebrake book
    Z8 ebrake handle
    M3 oval interior mirror retrofit

    Stereo:
    100% of factory stereo, mounting brackets, and wiring harness deleted
    Avin Avant 4 with speakers plugged in directly to unit
    Wireless CarPlay module

    Chassis:
    Vincebar, epoxy/rivet under floor version
    TMS subframe reinforcement kit with extra reinforcements
    BMW structural foam in subframe cavity
    updated BMW diff mount bolts
    CMP subframe raising solid mounts
    front strut tower inserts to remove slots
    Slonik chassis reenforcement plate

    Misc:
    Wavetrac differential
    Brail GU1R lithium ion battery (6 lbs), mounted in the engine bay to eliminate 6 lb battery cable
    Entire factory stereo (inc wiring harness, mounts, etc) removed
    Light weight (2 speaker) stereo powered by head unit installed
    Avin 9" touch screen head unit install (wireless CarPlay 99% of the time)
    CSL Cabin air filter housing
    Auto Solutions SSK
    RE Transmission mounts
    Hella Horns
    CDV delete
    VAG grocery bag hooks
    CSL Aux coolant pump
    Washer tank swapped for e39 high intensity washer tank
    e39 washer stalk for extra button to toggle M Track Mode while preserving on quick DSC off and steering wheel controls

    Coding (non comprehensive highlights):
    CSL oil level display (in cluster) enabled
    M track mode enabled
    Strobing shift lights

    Leave a comment:


  • S14
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    Haven't needed replacement pads yet, so will cross that bridge when I come to it.

    I started out with 4 cylinders, but it was way more difficult that way. With 2 cylinders, I know what the level is when scale. With 4, whenever I would change one all 4 would change, and I'd have to figure out what the new equal amount should be. Plus more tubes to trip over and fluid to fill. It was just a mess.

    With the new system, I just leave one on the highest, and then compare, one at a time, each scale to that. Quick, minimal fuss, easy to determine if level, less stuff to store.

    ... when we move, I'm going to use them to level my new 4 post lift and then probably get rid of them. Once I know the lift is level, they are no longer useful.
    gotcha, that makes sense. sometimes simple is best.

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by blazenXLT View Post

    Interesting - I run 17x9.5 et35 all the time and have been thinking of a BBK upgrade soon, but I hate to buy something and have to just hope that it fits. I thought PFC made a BBK for fitting in a 17 but bimmerworld shows it as not available. Haven't done any more research though...

    On the garage I'd only offer the standard advice - you can't have too much space, power or light. On light I did ok in our build, but I do wish I'd added more outlets. I did run 220v to two places, so that should cover me for any future lifts, compressors, or EVs. And like I mentioned before, the space where I'd put a lift is 8 inches of 4000 psi reinforced concrete. I'll have to post up some pics in my journal thread.
    Well, if you hold off on brakes till the 17x9.5 ET35s ARC-8s arrive, I can tell you if they'll clear the 996 brakes. I also hate to buy with the hope that it'll fit, but I couldn't the answer find the answer anywhere and Apex said I could return them if they don't.

    I'll be running 220v for sure-- Lift, air compressor, and realistically EVs are going to take over while I live in this house.

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by S14 View Post

    I'm about to put porsche brakes on, and couldn't be bothered with fiddling with the logo/repaint either! Did you get track pads sorted out through FCP? They seem to be out of stock of the good stuff for 6 months or so. My last conversation with a rep was that DS11.1's were backordered from the factory, not that they weren't going to carry them any longer.

    Great idea on the vynil floor tiles, I'm going to try that out! Do you level left right/ front back/cross? Could you use 4 cylinders and not have to level the pads multiple times?
    Haven't needed replacement pads yet, so will cross that bridge when I come to it.

    I started out with 4 cylinders, but it was way more difficult that way. With 2 cylinders, I know what the level is when scale. With 4, whenever I would change one all 4 would change, and I'd have to figure out what the new equal amount should be. Plus more tubes to trip over and fluid to fill. It was just a mess.

    With the new system, I just leave one on the highest, and then compare, one at a time, each scale to that. Quick, minimal fuss, easy to determine if level, less stuff to store.

    ... when we move, I'm going to use them to level my new 4 post lift and then probably get rid of them. Once I know the lift is level, they are no longer useful.

    Leave a comment:


  • S14
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    Ha. The stickers have double purpose-- hide the Porsche logo and tell me the caliper temperatures :P

    I have two graduated cylinders, connected by a tube at the bottom with 1/2" rubber fish tank line. I put water with food coloring (to make it easier to see) in there, and fill them both ~3/4 full. I shim under till both cylinders read the same, at which point I know they're level. I try to figure out which scale is the highest, and then use all the others to compare to that (shimming the others up). Once everything is shimmed up, I zero the scales so they don't contribute to corner weights.

    As shims, I use whatever the cheapest vinyl floor tiles I could find at Home Depot were (IIRC it was like $30 for 100 of them). They're ~1mm thick, so I can get reasonable leveling, and they're slippery-- so when I raise/lower the car, it doesn't get stuck high with the camber curve, and if I, say, adjust camber, I'm not fighting the friction of the tire on the scale-- the floor tiles just slide against each other.
    I'm about to put porsche brakes on, and couldn't be bothered with fiddling with the logo/repaint either! Did you get track pads sorted out through FCP? They seem to be out of stock of the good stuff for 6 months or so. My last conversation with a rep was that DS11.1's were backordered from the factory, not that they weren't going to carry them any longer.

    Great idea on the vynil floor tiles, I'm going to try that out! Do you level left right/ front back/cross? Could you use 4 cylinders and not have to level the pads multiple times?

    Leave a comment:


  • blazenXLT
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    The brembos fit under the specific 17 I run (not most 17s), as do the 996 calipers I’m now running. I have 17x9.5 et35s ordered that I’m REALLY hoping fit over the 996 brakes... I really dislike the et25 setup for track use.

    I don’t really have any great garage ideas, beyond having it finally be large enough to not be annoyed. Open to suggestions!
    Interesting - I run 17x9.5 et35 all the time and have been thinking of a BBK upgrade soon, but I hate to buy something and have to just hope that it fits. I thought PFC made a BBK for fitting in a 17 but bimmerworld shows it as not available. Haven't done any more research though...

    On the garage I'd only offer the standard advice - you can't have too much space, power or light. On light I did ok in our build, but I do wish I'd added more outlets. I did run 220v to two places, so that should cover me for any future lifts, compressors, or EVs. And like I mentioned before, the space where I'd put a lift is 8 inches of 4000 psi reinforced concrete. I'll have to post up some pics in my journal thread.

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by blazenXLT View Post
    Your Brembos fit under a 17 inch wheel right? I think I remember you running 17s on the track.

    I'd also be interested in details on the new garage. We just moved into our new build in November. We expanded the garage in depth and width, put an extra high ceiling in the 3rd bay plus extra concrete. 99% sure a 4 post will go in late this year.
    The brembos fit under the specific 17 I run (not most 17s), as do the 996 calipers I’m now running. I have 17x9.5 et35s ordered that I’m REALLY hoping fit over the 996 brakes... I really dislike the et25 setup for track use.

    I don’t really have any great garage ideas, beyond having it finally be large enough to not be annoyed. Open to suggestions!

    Leave a comment:


  • blazenXLT
    replied
    Your Brembos fit under a 17 inch wheel right? I think I remember you running 17s on the track.

    I'd also be interested in details on the new garage. We just moved into our new build in November. We expanded the garage in depth and width, put an extra high ceiling in the 3rd bay plus extra concrete. 99% sure a 4 post will go in late this year.

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by Exclusivs View Post

    Solid feedback thanks. Any seat time on them yet? Thats where I'm anxious to know how they are
    The brakes? Yes, I drove them all last year, street and track. That was the basis of the feedback above...

    Leave a comment:


  • Exclusivs
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    I was driving on them last year. They're... 90% as good as the Brembo GT kit was. Better than stoptech or stock, and actually easier pad swaps than the brembos, but the pedal feedback isn't quite as good.

    Also, they're a not insignificantly heavier setup.

    But, FCP sells the wear items, sooo....
    Solid feedback thanks. Any seat time on them yet? Thats where I'm anxious to know how they are

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

    Slon wall didn't arrive in time for track season? Bummer, was looking forward to hearing your thoughts on it.
    Nope... been stuck in customs for a while. Not Slonik’s fault, but still sad.

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post
    At this point I just need to finish a wiring harness I'm setting up, set the end links on the sways, and she's ready for the year
    Slon wall didn't arrive in time for track season? Bummer, was looking forward to hearing your thoughts on it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by Exclusivs View Post
    Nice updates Ian!

    Looking forward to hearing your take on the retro-fit, VS real GT kit
    I was driving on them last year. They're... 90% as good as the Brembo GT kit was. Better than stoptech or stock, and actually easier pad swaps than the brembos, but the pedal feedback isn't quite as good.

    Also, they're a not insignificantly heavier setup.

    But, FCP sells the wear items, sooo....

    Leave a comment:


  • Exclusivs
    replied
    Nice updates Ian!

    Looking forward to hearing your take on the retro-fit, VS real GT kit

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by S14 View Post
    Looking good, I like your brake caliper stickers!

    Can you explain a bit more how you leveled your scales? Mainly, how did you shim to adjust the height and how did you set up the graduated cylinders?
    Ha. The stickers have double purpose-- hide the Porsche logo and tell me the caliper temperatures :P

    I have two graduated cylinders, connected by a tube at the bottom with 1/2" rubber fish tank line. I put water with food coloring (to make it easier to see) in there, and fill them both ~3/4 full. I shim under till both cylinders read the same, at which point I know they're level. I try to figure out which scale is the highest, and then use all the others to compare to that (shimming the others up). Once everything is shimmed up, I zero the scales so they don't contribute to corner weights.

    As shims, I use whatever the cheapest vinyl floor tiles I could find at Home Depot were (IIRC it was like $30 for 100 of them). They're ~1mm thick, so I can get reasonable leveling, and they're slippery-- so when I raise/lower the car, it doesn't get stuck high with the camber curve, and if I, say, adjust camber, I'm not fighting the friction of the tire on the scale-- the floor tiles just slide against each other.

    Leave a comment:

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