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Obioban's 2005 IR/IR Coupe

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  • duracellttu
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    Ha... more involved question than you might think.

    I found a line barely barrel springs that eibach makes, which they call their extreme travel line. That allowed me to use a shorter spring (6" IIRC) up front, while still having sufficient travel, which puts the perch above the tire at my desired ride height, allowing me to run bigger tires without compromising offsets (lets me run an ET35 front, which allows me to not have stupid camber to fit 285s). So, my front left is an eibach extreme travel 6" "barrel" spring. Eibach 0600.2530.0350.

    Front left was tricky because the extreme travel line only comes in 50 lb increments.... but then I realized that GC sells and extreme travel spring (made by eibach, though they don't use that branding-- but visibly the same thing and I confirmed that they were with GC) in 6" 375 lb. Ground control GC150.64.66.


    Both fronts are either 65mm or 2.5", I forget which (and am pretty sure most spring companies use the same thing here anyway. To fit that on the H&R shock body, I'm using Ohlins spring perches-- same thread pitch, so it's plug and play. Still using the H&R lock ring, because it's free.

    Rear left is a TCK 700 lb beehive from my old TCK coilovers. TCK TKE 360 700 R.

    Right rear is a GC linear 650 lb spring... I think 6"? With some of their cones on the top side, to protect the chassis from the spring.

    Both rears are sitting on the H&R rear ride height adjusters, because they're really nice-- let you adjust the height without taking the spring out, or wheel off, which makes corner balancing way easier.
    How did you get a set of Ohlin front perches with 65mm/2.5” ID? Getting away from 60mm would really open up spring options.
    Last edited by duracellttu; 05-16-2021, 06:48 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by K-Dawg View Post

    Including the hybrid styles? I'm planning to replace the TC Kline plates currently on my car and NVH is a concern.

    Great job and thanks for documenting all of this. I can appreciate the reasoning behind the choices you've made. Looking forward to more reviews of the suspension!
    I had the hybrids before. They're closer to street than monoball in NHV. They're a nice product.

    Mostly I don't think there's a ton of increased precision to be had from the monoballs/hybrids over street plates (as in, it's not hold chassis geometry like control arm monoballs) and they are a significant NHV contributor. So, the trade off didn't seem worth it to me.

    ... and the hybrid TMS camber plates have gotten crazy expensive, once you add the perches and shock adapters (and I sold my previous set with the Ohlins).

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by duracellttu View Post
    Awesome to hear you finally got this installed!! What brand and size springs did you use F and R?
    Ha... more involved question than you might think.

    I found a line barely barrel springs that eibach makes, which they call their extreme travel line. That allowed me to use a shorter spring (6" IIRC) up front, while still having sufficient travel, which puts the perch above the tire at my desired ride height, allowing me to run bigger tires without compromising offsets (lets me run an ET35 front, which allows me to not have stupid camber to fit 285s). So, my front left is an eibach extreme travel 6" "barrel" spring. Eibach 0600.2530.0350.

    Front left was tricky because the extreme travel line only comes in 50 lb increments.... but then I realized that GC sells and extreme travel spring (made by eibach, though they don't use that branding-- but visibly the same thing and I confirmed that they were with GC) in 6" 375 lb. Ground control GC150.64.66.


    Both fronts are either 65mm or 2.5", I forget which (and am pretty sure most spring companies use the same thing here anyway. To fit that on the H&R shock body, I'm using Ohlins spring perches-- same thread pitch, so it's plug and play. Still using the H&R lock ring, because it's free.

    Rear left is a TCK 700 lb beehive from my old TCK coilovers. TCK TKE 360 700 R.

    Right rear is a GC linear 650 lb spring... I think 6"? With some of their cones on the top side, to protect the chassis from the spring.

    Both rears are sitting on the H&R rear ride height adjusters, because they're really nice-- let you adjust the height without taking the spring out, or wheel off, which makes corner balancing way easier.

    Leave a comment:


  • K-Dawg
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    The monoball camber plates are just too much NHV for the amount of precision they add, for me.
    Including the hybrid styles? I'm planning to replace the TC Kline plates currently on my car and NVH is a concern.

    Great job and thanks for documenting all of this. I can appreciate the reasoning behind the choices you've made. Looking forward to more reviews of the suspension!

    Leave a comment:


  • duracellttu
    replied
    Awesome to hear you finally got this installed!! What brand and size springs did you use F and R?

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Ya I'm concerned (I'm moving from poly tms street plates to vorshlag). Oh well

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
    Congrats on reaching this point. I'm surprised you're on poly bushed camber plates and rsms though.
    The monoball camber plates are just too much NHV for the amount of precision they add, for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Congrats on reaching this point. I'm surprised you're on poly bushed camber plates and rsms though.

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    I did a bunch of mods over the winter. The most significant (for me, anyway) was the Fat Cats suspension.

    Because of moving, it's been hard to make actual progress on getting the car 100% (was driving for a while with no sway bars connected, etc). But, as of last week I'm installed, bump/droop ratios optimized, corner balanced, aligned, corner balanced again, and preload dialed out. I've put ~100 (street only so far) miles on the car, and and comfortable giving very early impressions.

    My complete setup is as follows:
    Fat Cat Motorsports Stage 3 Coilovers (every option they offer)
    Springs: 375 FL, 350 FR, 700 RL, 650 RR (equal frequencies left/right, 1.97hz front, 2.10hz rear, 75% front roll couple with sway in middle of adjustment range)
    Ground control street camber plates
    Ground control street RSMs
    Ground control Front sway/bushings/brackets/end links
    CSL Rear sway/bushings/brackets, with home made adjustable end link
    Sealed monoball RTABs
    TMS Sealed monoball FCABs
    Bimmerworld sealed monoball rear adjustable camber arms
    CSL Kingpins

    I'm running at 60% bump, 40% droop up front, with a .5" rake (seem to be optimal for high speed oversteer/understeer), which puts me at ~14" front, 13.5" rear. In terms of alignment, I'm at -1.5 up front (this will be pyrometer based set more negative on track) and -2.0 rear (this will be left alone on track). I'm super psyched to have a setup that lets me run high enough to have a reasonable street camber, with the CSL kingpins-- should be a pretty killer camber curve and let me get away with meaningfully less static camber on track! Rear geometry should also be pretty good, with the CMP bushings raising the subframe and minimal drop. My geometry is also pretty rigidly held, as the only bushings in the entire setup are rear upper control arm inside bushing-- everything else is a sealed monoball (shock mounts and drivetrain mounts are still bushed/stock, so NHV is pretty minimal).

    Onward to initial street impressions of the FCM setup:
    The only word I can think of to describe the car is unflappable. Nothing seems to phase it. If you've ever driven a car with too much tire (the level of grip is more than the suspension can deal with), this feels like what the opposite would be. The closest analogy that fits is a stock FRS/BRZ/86, on the default prius tires-- only with PS4S levels of grip.

    It is remarkably different than any setup I've driven before. And I've been all over the map-- Motons and JRZs on the e36 track car, TCKs and Ohlins on this car, Stock springs with Koni yellows on the M5, Dinan springs with Koni yellows on the M3 wagon. I can't say it definitively till I've been on track (after which I'll make a dedicated thread about the setup), but so far this setup feels faster and easier (to drive) than any of the above. Plus, I'm excited to have a setup that just valved for my specific corner weights and spring rates, so I don't have to mess with adjusting shock valving before/during/after track events. It's just correct for the car.

    I'm pretty excited for this setup-- don't think I'll be changing again. I look forward to seeing what it's like on track!

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Street review of wavetrac: indistinguishable from stock.

    No track time on it yet.

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by oceansize View Post

    I have a binder that is at least 150 to 250 pages with all receipts and a detailed job description of every job I have (and the one shop I occasionally use) completed. Even has a table of contents and an excel spreadsheet so I can see exactly what I've spent. 0 out of 10, don't recommend knowing those numbers lol.
    I have very intentionally never slightly thought about that.

    Leave a comment:


  • oceansize
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post
    I have attempted to bring my mod list up to date. There's probably some things I'm missing, but... it's closer than it was.
    I have a binder that is at least 150 to 250 pages with all receipts and a detailed job description of every job I have (and the one shop I occasionally use) completed. Even has a table of contents and an excel spreadsheet so I can see exactly what I've spent. 0 out of 10, don't recommend knowing those numbers lol.

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    I have attempted to bring my mod list up to date. There's probably some things I'm missing, but... it's closer than it was.

    Engine:
    OEM ( Die Wethje) CSL Airbox
    Schrick 280/272 cams
    TMS pullies
    Dr VANOS cryo treated exhaust hub
    Beisan systems lifetime VANOS sealing plate o-rings
    Beisan systems lifetime VANOS solenoid
    Beisan oil pump disk
    Beisan VANOS rattle repair kit
    Beisan VANOS seals
    Beisan timing chain tensioner guide
    TurboToy (modified ARP) cam bolts
    updated BMW high pressure vanos oil line
    lifetime CPV o-ring

    Exhaust:
    SuperSprint V1 stepped headers (swaintech coated)
    SuperSprint HJS catted V1 Section 1
    SuperSprint resonated twin tube section 2
    SuperSprint Street muffler

    Engine Management:
    CSL Engine Management
    MCCHIP-DKR Dyno tune
    OE CSL IAT
    OE CSL Map rail/sensor
    Aux/clutched fan replaced with ecu controlled (using Z4M values) spal fan
    SMG shift lights turned on
    post cat 02s turned down but left on (ready)
    secondary air pump sensor disabled
    cold start sequence disabled
    non sport throttle mapping
    sport button disabled for future alternate use
    sport mode memory enabled
    EGT tweaked for HJS Cats' allowable max temps
    Top speed limiter removed
    Dyno limiter removed
    CSL warmup light values

    Suspension:
    Fat Cat Motorsports Stage 3 Coilovers
    Springs: 375 FL, 350 FR, 700 RL, 650 RR (equal frequencies left/right, 1.97hz front, 2.10hz rear, 75% front roll couple with sway in middle of adjustment range)
    Corner balanced and preload dialed out, with equal ride heights left/right with me in the drivers seat
    Ground control street camber plates
    Ground control street RSMs
    Ground control Front sway/bushings/brackets/end links
    CSL Rear sway/bushings/brackets, with home made adjustable end link
    Sealed monoball RTABs
    Bimmerworld sealed monoball rear adjustable camber arms
    CSL Kingpins

    Steering
    ZHP/yellow tag steering rack
    25% assist reduction by shimming pressure regulator
    CHF-11 conversion
    Alcantara steering wheel

    Brakes:
    817.3 DSC unit (CSL)
    Porsche 996 calipers
    CSL/ZCP/Z4M rotors (FCP)
    stainless lines
    OE Porsche Street pads (FCP)
    track pads (FCP)
    Castrol SRF (FCP)
    Hard Motorsport Brake Ducts
    Hard motorsport backing plates

    Body:
    Evolve CF roof
    Vorsteiner CSL trunk
    Fucy CSL diffuser
    Gunmetal grills/gills
    Depo smoked front corner lights
    35% tint (3M)
    vinyl M stripes on trunk badge (stock colors, less prone to fading)
    modern BMW wheel center caps
    shark fin removed
    OEM driver’s side keyhole cover (to deter thieves)

    Wheels:
    18" RAC RG-63s in gunmetal (street)
    17" Apex ARC-8s (track)
    TMS 75mm studs

    Lights:
    TFX projectors
    55w bulbs/ballasts/ignitors in 4300k
    85w halogen highs, programmed to come on with the xenon highs
    Outer brake light ring enabled for normal braking
    Brake lights programmed to strobe under hard stops
    e9X LED license plate lights

    Interior:
    Cobra Nogaros in Imola Red leather, with factory heating pads install and adjustable lumbar
    Brey Krause Mounts on factory e46 manual sliders
    Brey Krause Rear deck harness mounts
    Alcantara wrapped header liner
    Alcantara wrapped pillars
    Alcantara wrapped rear deck
    Alcantara wrapped steering wheel
    imola leather wrapped center console
    imola leather wrapped arm rest
    imola leather wrapped ebrake book
    Z8 ebrake handle
    M3 oval interior mirror retrofit

    Stereo:
    100% of factory stereo, mounting brackets, and wiring harness deleted
    Avin Avant 4 with speakers plugged in directly to unit
    Wireless CarPlay module

    Chassis:
    Vincebar, epoxy/rivet under floor version
    TMS subframe reinforcement kit with extra reinforcements
    BMW structural foam in subframe cavity
    updated BMW diff mount bolts
    CMP subframe raising solid mounts
    front strut tower inserts to remove slots
    Slonik chassis reenforcement plate

    Misc:
    Wavetrac differential
    Brail GU1R lithium ion battery (6 lbs), mounted in the engine bay to eliminate 6 lb battery cable
    Entire factory stereo (inc wiring harness, mounts, etc) removed
    Light weight (2 speaker) stereo powered by head unit installed
    Avin 9" touch screen head unit install (wireless CarPlay 99% of the time)
    CSL Cabin air filter housing
    Auto Solutions SSK
    RE Transmission mounts
    Hella Horns
    CDV delete
    VAG grocery bag hooks
    CSL Aux coolant pump
    Washer tank swapped for e39 high intensity washer tank
    e39 washer stalk for extra button to toggle M Track Mode while preserving on quick DSC off and steering wheel controls

    Coding (non comprehensive highlights):
    CSL oil level display (in cluster) enabled
    M track mode enabled
    Strobing shift lights

    Leave a comment:


  • S14
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    Haven't needed replacement pads yet, so will cross that bridge when I come to it.

    I started out with 4 cylinders, but it was way more difficult that way. With 2 cylinders, I know what the level is when scale. With 4, whenever I would change one all 4 would change, and I'd have to figure out what the new equal amount should be. Plus more tubes to trip over and fluid to fill. It was just a mess.

    With the new system, I just leave one on the highest, and then compare, one at a time, each scale to that. Quick, minimal fuss, easy to determine if level, less stuff to store.

    ... when we move, I'm going to use them to level my new 4 post lift and then probably get rid of them. Once I know the lift is level, they are no longer useful.
    gotcha, that makes sense. sometimes simple is best.

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by blazenXLT View Post

    Interesting - I run 17x9.5 et35 all the time and have been thinking of a BBK upgrade soon, but I hate to buy something and have to just hope that it fits. I thought PFC made a BBK for fitting in a 17 but bimmerworld shows it as not available. Haven't done any more research though...

    On the garage I'd only offer the standard advice - you can't have too much space, power or light. On light I did ok in our build, but I do wish I'd added more outlets. I did run 220v to two places, so that should cover me for any future lifts, compressors, or EVs. And like I mentioned before, the space where I'd put a lift is 8 inches of 4000 psi reinforced concrete. I'll have to post up some pics in my journal thread.
    Well, if you hold off on brakes till the 17x9.5 ET35s ARC-8s arrive, I can tell you if they'll clear the 996 brakes. I also hate to buy with the hope that it'll fit, but I couldn't the answer find the answer anywhere and Apex said I could return them if they don't.

    I'll be running 220v for sure-- Lift, air compressor, and realistically EVs are going to take over while I live in this house.

    Leave a comment:

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