Part one of a lengthy and detailed update on the M3 that I’m excited to be closing in on wrapping up. As usual life and work has been busy and progress on the blue car has been slow. I recently had my other “project car” shipped down to Texas after having sat in storage for roughly the last five years. It’s been neglected for a while and needs quite a bit of love to get back to where it ought to be. Having both my 90’s sports cars sitting next to each other has been something I’ve looked forward to for years, just need to clean up the white car.
It seems I have a type. The M3 is a small car by modern standards, but the Silvia makes it look big-ish.
Last summer, during our day trip out to Austin, on the way home I noticed a faint whine from the rear end that increased with wheel speed. It was pretty subtle at first and I didn’t think all too much of it. Over the last year it increased in ferocity, louder and louder, to the point of obnoxiousness at highway speed. Through some diagnosis I eventually landed on the diff bearings being shot and started ordering up parts. Hours of reading up on different clutch and ramp setups, I decided to keep it simple with the Thayer 3-clutch 40% static lockup/low preload setup and factory 45/45 pressure ramps. A little more reading, and a little more “while I’m in there” going, I decided to change the final drive from 3.23 to 3.46, so I sourced a new ring and pinion from overseas.
As usual, I had the parts for quite a while before actually mustering up the motivation to start tearing everything apart. When the time finally came to pull the diff out it didn’t want to cooperate all too well. Although the driveshaft was replaced only 6 months or so ago, for some reason the input flange on the diff was seized to the driveshaft. With a limited amount of time that day we ended up dropping the subframe slightly and removing the diff and the driveshaft as one entire piece.
Certainly not the ideal outcome I wanted but none of the other options worked. Torch and heat, prybars, hammers and punches, even using the driveshaft as a slide hammer at the expense of the new CV joint, nothing worked. With all options exhausted, it came down to completely disassembling the CV in order to get the two apart.
What a yucky and stupid problem to have but sometimes that’s just the way it goes. With the main issue out of the way I could get started on disassembly, cataloging, cleaning, and sandblasting the factory hardware that wasn’t being replaced.
I’ve probably said it before but cleaning, sandblasting, and re-coating hardware is strangely therapeutic for me.
The speed sensor was pretty caked up with metal shavings, yikes. Originally I thought this to be from one of the carrier cap bolts having backed out and eaten to death by the diff, but that ended up not being the case.
All eight carrier cap bolts were fully seated and in tact. Surprisingly enough seven of the eight bolts came out without a fuss and I had to get creative with only one of them.
A couple of zaps with the impact made quick work of the ring gear bolts. Thank whomever for power tools. Now for the fun part, disassembly of the clutches, dog plates, spider gears, pressure ramps, all the washers and the magic of a clutch-type limited slip differential.
This is also the part where I find the real carnage done to those parts as well. I expected some wear and tear for a car of this age, but not quite this much.
Some pretty serious gouging and scoring in the dogs and the pressure ramps. The clutch plates were completely toast as well. Luckily new dog plates come with the Thayer clutch replacement kit. Unluckily, I didn’t plan to have to replace the ramps as well. The damage was too deep to try and machine smooth again. Rather than complicate anything any further, I sourced another set of OEM 45/45 ramps that had been refinished and were in perfect shape.
About a .15 mil difference, good enough for me. But before reassembly of all of the LSD internals, it was time to take care of some of the other items first.
Starting with installing the new 3.46 ring gear. If I recall correctly the 3.46 ratio out of a medium case/188mm diff was from an E28’s and certain E30’s. These cars used 12mm ring gear bolts as opposed to the E36 M3’s 14mm bolts.
New OEM bolts and adapting hardware squared that away. Next task was removing both carrier bearings.
No fuss in removing the old ones and pressing the new ones on.
Next up was to clean up and re-paint the carrier caps and then replace the seals, o-rings and corresponding bearing races. While working on these I had the differential housing in the parts washer running for a few hours to try and clean out all of the metal shavings that were lingering inside.
Old and tired and dirty it was, even after a lengthy bath. A little time with some cleaners, wire brushes and a couple of coats of fresh paint and it’ll be good as new.
While working on all of this during the evenings, and after a little hiccup with the driveshaft shop, the reman’d driveshaft showed back up.
Quick pause to take a trip to the east coast to hike some mountains and eat clam chowder.
Back to Texas a little bit later, I stopped by the local Autozone to grab a 30mm socket and to be reminded of the awe in the lack of customer service or automotive knowledge. Ground down the socket to fit and again a couple bumps of the impact had the pinion nut right off. The plan is to put this input flange on the lathe to ensure it’s fully rounded and won’t seize onto the differential flange again, but in the meantime it’s off to the sandblaster.
Years of road debris and grime and corrosion, gone just a couple minutes later.
And almost good as new, still waiting on some lathe time.
Seriously, sand blasters are the best.
With the pinion gear now pressed out of the diff housing itself, it was time to get down to what started this entire project in the first place.
Andddddd now we know where those metal shavings came from. The roller bearings and races on the pinion were absolutely destroyed, pitted beyond what I anticipated. It feels good to see this and know that all of the work thus far wasn’t for nothing. Now I’m stoked, not only to see how the 40% lockup acts, but how quiet and smooth this thing is going to be.
Old races driven out……
…..and coming back to the workbench a few days later to find the new ones were already driven in, the new pinion installed….
….and some math on the table with requested shims? Perks of having a full-time gearbox tech that took an interest in helping a clueless guy out. A few days later I had a pack of shims from friend and BMW whiz Jon Eye at Kinetic Motors in St. Louis. With the new shims in, Richard tested backlash, preload, and wear pattern on all of the components and gave me the green light to reassemble the LSD itself.
He also threw the input flange on the lathe and said it was quite a bit, a couple thousands, smaller than the flange on the drive shaft, likely why the two wouldn’t come apart after being assembled last time.
Diff cover with new OEM rubber bushings pressed in. More on the reason why I removed the poly and replaced them with rubber in the next post.
With all of the work on the differential pretty much done aside from putting the cover on and filling it with fluid it’s time to focus on the other half of this big task, which will be covered in the next post after it’s all done.
It seems I have a type. The M3 is a small car by modern standards, but the Silvia makes it look big-ish.
Last summer, during our day trip out to Austin, on the way home I noticed a faint whine from the rear end that increased with wheel speed. It was pretty subtle at first and I didn’t think all too much of it. Over the last year it increased in ferocity, louder and louder, to the point of obnoxiousness at highway speed. Through some diagnosis I eventually landed on the diff bearings being shot and started ordering up parts. Hours of reading up on different clutch and ramp setups, I decided to keep it simple with the Thayer 3-clutch 40% static lockup/low preload setup and factory 45/45 pressure ramps. A little more reading, and a little more “while I’m in there” going, I decided to change the final drive from 3.23 to 3.46, so I sourced a new ring and pinion from overseas.
As usual, I had the parts for quite a while before actually mustering up the motivation to start tearing everything apart. When the time finally came to pull the diff out it didn’t want to cooperate all too well. Although the driveshaft was replaced only 6 months or so ago, for some reason the input flange on the diff was seized to the driveshaft. With a limited amount of time that day we ended up dropping the subframe slightly and removing the diff and the driveshaft as one entire piece.
Certainly not the ideal outcome I wanted but none of the other options worked. Torch and heat, prybars, hammers and punches, even using the driveshaft as a slide hammer at the expense of the new CV joint, nothing worked. With all options exhausted, it came down to completely disassembling the CV in order to get the two apart.
What a yucky and stupid problem to have but sometimes that’s just the way it goes. With the main issue out of the way I could get started on disassembly, cataloging, cleaning, and sandblasting the factory hardware that wasn’t being replaced.
I’ve probably said it before but cleaning, sandblasting, and re-coating hardware is strangely therapeutic for me.
The speed sensor was pretty caked up with metal shavings, yikes. Originally I thought this to be from one of the carrier cap bolts having backed out and eaten to death by the diff, but that ended up not being the case.
All eight carrier cap bolts were fully seated and in tact. Surprisingly enough seven of the eight bolts came out without a fuss and I had to get creative with only one of them.
A couple of zaps with the impact made quick work of the ring gear bolts. Thank whomever for power tools. Now for the fun part, disassembly of the clutches, dog plates, spider gears, pressure ramps, all the washers and the magic of a clutch-type limited slip differential.
This is also the part where I find the real carnage done to those parts as well. I expected some wear and tear for a car of this age, but not quite this much.
Some pretty serious gouging and scoring in the dogs and the pressure ramps. The clutch plates were completely toast as well. Luckily new dog plates come with the Thayer clutch replacement kit. Unluckily, I didn’t plan to have to replace the ramps as well. The damage was too deep to try and machine smooth again. Rather than complicate anything any further, I sourced another set of OEM 45/45 ramps that had been refinished and were in perfect shape.
About a .15 mil difference, good enough for me. But before reassembly of all of the LSD internals, it was time to take care of some of the other items first.
Starting with installing the new 3.46 ring gear. If I recall correctly the 3.46 ratio out of a medium case/188mm diff was from an E28’s and certain E30’s. These cars used 12mm ring gear bolts as opposed to the E36 M3’s 14mm bolts.
New OEM bolts and adapting hardware squared that away. Next task was removing both carrier bearings.
No fuss in removing the old ones and pressing the new ones on.
Next up was to clean up and re-paint the carrier caps and then replace the seals, o-rings and corresponding bearing races. While working on these I had the differential housing in the parts washer running for a few hours to try and clean out all of the metal shavings that were lingering inside.
Old and tired and dirty it was, even after a lengthy bath. A little time with some cleaners, wire brushes and a couple of coats of fresh paint and it’ll be good as new.
While working on all of this during the evenings, and after a little hiccup with the driveshaft shop, the reman’d driveshaft showed back up.
Quick pause to take a trip to the east coast to hike some mountains and eat clam chowder.
Back to Texas a little bit later, I stopped by the local Autozone to grab a 30mm socket and to be reminded of the awe in the lack of customer service or automotive knowledge. Ground down the socket to fit and again a couple bumps of the impact had the pinion nut right off. The plan is to put this input flange on the lathe to ensure it’s fully rounded and won’t seize onto the differential flange again, but in the meantime it’s off to the sandblaster.
Years of road debris and grime and corrosion, gone just a couple minutes later.
And almost good as new, still waiting on some lathe time.
Seriously, sand blasters are the best.
With the pinion gear now pressed out of the diff housing itself, it was time to get down to what started this entire project in the first place.
Andddddd now we know where those metal shavings came from. The roller bearings and races on the pinion were absolutely destroyed, pitted beyond what I anticipated. It feels good to see this and know that all of the work thus far wasn’t for nothing. Now I’m stoked, not only to see how the 40% lockup acts, but how quiet and smooth this thing is going to be.
Old races driven out……
…..and coming back to the workbench a few days later to find the new ones were already driven in, the new pinion installed….
….and some math on the table with requested shims? Perks of having a full-time gearbox tech that took an interest in helping a clueless guy out. A few days later I had a pack of shims from friend and BMW whiz Jon Eye at Kinetic Motors in St. Louis. With the new shims in, Richard tested backlash, preload, and wear pattern on all of the components and gave me the green light to reassemble the LSD itself.
He also threw the input flange on the lathe and said it was quite a bit, a couple thousands, smaller than the flange on the drive shaft, likely why the two wouldn’t come apart after being assembled last time.
Diff cover with new OEM rubber bushings pressed in. More on the reason why I removed the poly and replaced them with rubber in the next post.
With all of the work on the differential pretty much done aside from putting the cover on and filling it with fluid it’s time to focus on the other half of this big task, which will be covered in the next post after it’s all done.
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