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    Bad Om3n "Build"

    I figured I'd take a crack at starting a build thread for my M3. I enjoy reading so many of your build threads, perhaps I can give something back.

    There is a bit of a backstory to this car. I bought the car in 2017 (am writing this in 2021 for reference). I was a few years out of university and I was living in an apartment, I also owned a 1984 Z/28 Camaro (and still do). It was the first car I ever bought when I was 15, built an engine for it as a kid with part time money and the story of it has probably landed me more jobs than any class ever has. The last car my father worked on with me before he died. Very high sentimental value for me. nevertheless, I was on the hunt for space to start wrenching again. It was cheaper to buy a house+garage all in than to rent an apt and shop space (especially if you rent the basement!). So, I put my savings into a house. My plans for that Camaro were grand and I knew it was going to take me years to finish and I didn't want to enjoy nothing for years so I decided to get something to enjoy while I undertook that project. After much deliberation I decided I wanted an E46 M3. NFS Childhood dream car. I nerded out on the S54 engine, I wanted to know what it felt like to drive one of the "best drivers cars". It took me two years to figure what combo I wanted, and to find one. An Oxford Green 6sp Coupe with a Cinnamon interior 🤤. Eventually, I found one for sale in Virginia - I'm nowhere near Virginia. It was a continent-wide search for this thing. Bought it "sight unseen" but with much correspondence between the seller and had it shipped to me in Detroit where I would import it to Canada.

    Here is the car as it showed up to me. a 2003 OG/Cinnamon 6spd coupe with ~95k miles.
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    And here it is next to my daily at the time, an R50 pathfinder (also green!)
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    To import a the car to Canada, it cannot have any outstanding recalls. Well, this M3 had an outstanding recall for the airbag - so I took it to my nearest BMW dealer to get the recall done. While it was there, I told them that I just bought it sight unseen and asked them to do an inspection at cost to me. This is where things go downhill. You see, when the car arrived, it already had a bunch of flaws. BMW informed me that it had been converted from an SMG (ooof), among other things, and that their estimate to "repair" it *starts* at 25k. Considering I was about to import this car into Canada this put me in quite a predicament.

    Long story short, I ended up importing it into Canada (obviously) despite its .... dissapointments.

    The car was converted to an manual - presumably because the pump failed judging by the mess on the underside. The interior had been taken apart, many clips broken, "wrapped in suede", custom "show car trunk with 12" subs". it was a mess.. BUT! the car was clean! No dents, no rust, low-ish mileage. it was solid foundation. You have to remember, i'm in rust-belt territory here.

    SMG Mess:
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    Here is the M3 home in Canada. with the Z/28 in the background.
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    You may have noticed something in the picture above.

    You see - the seller failed to disclose that this car has a remote starter installed. Moreover, the clutch lockout and EWS have been bypassed. ... So, one day, while working on a friends car we were rolling around on the ground when the Lock+Unlock combo on the keys in my pocket were pressed and the car started while in gear. The more unfortunate part is that it drove forward into the car we were working on, while it was on jackstands and knocked it off. I got out but my friend got badly injured. This is where the name Bad Om3n begins. Without getting into details - the car was effectively off-limits for the next 3 years for legal reasons. My friend has made a miraculous recovery given the context in the meantime. you may have noticed the damage to the hood/grilles in the picture.

    Over this time, I wasn't allowed to work on the M3. I wasn't allowed to sell the M3. I wasn't allowed to do anything and so I researched and researched and researched. I learned about INPA and NCS. I learned how to perform the SMG conversion and went over his work. I learned about the M3's weak points and how to address them. What parts were available. I looked at all of your builds for inspiration while I hoarded my money and got deals on parts where I could. Here's the thing; this M3 was supposed to be what I enjoyed while I worked on the Camaro. Now the M3 has become its own full blown project.

    I'm sure some of you can relate 😂😈😲

    Here are some pics from the brief time the car was actually on the road.

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    It turns out I'm kind of into both Photography and Detailing and I started getting into them more over the course of my ownership. You'll see both improve over the course of the thread 🤣

    Eventually, I was given clearance to work on the car. After getting this, and selling a different project that was effectively plugging up my garage I was finally able to work on this car! For some context: The whole point of buying a house was to have a shop to work in, and for the last 3 years my hands had been tied. I was ecstatic. I felt liberated!

    Considering everything that happened, I went out and picked up a set of 7000lb heavy-duty quickjacks for a vast improvement in safety. Nothing is rocking these.
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    Now. this is happening just as the Pandemic beginning. We're maybe a month or two it at this point when I finally get everything set up and ready to go. I'm fortunate in that I get to work from home. So, this meant I got wayyyyy more time to get elbow deep in this car. I went and did small things here and there on lunch breaks and stuff. I was home "instantly" after work. a bit of a silver lining.

    At this point, I've resolved to re-enforce the rear subframe. And, since this thing is so buried, it has spun off a bunch of other small mods and upgrades which sent me down the rabbit hole as you'll see. But then again, I suppose thats all relative. Some of your builds are unreal.

    At this point, I think I've built a good lead up to the build. Moving forward I'll try and be a bit more "sectional" with my posts and more focused on certain aspects. The wealth of knowledge on forums like this was critical to me persevering through the obstacles that this car presented. Coming out the other end of this experience, I've grown dramatically in my skills and confidence. Perhaps my experiences can help someone else. My goals with this car are to primarily to build a "clean" car. with quality, subtle mods. I appreciate the E46 for what it is and would like to put emphasis on how it "Feels" to drive. To refine the experience it provides. I have my Camaro to run wild with custom ideas, I recently bought an NA Miata to take to the track. And a literbike makes a Lamborghini feel slow. so, I welcome you to join me on my adventure full of bad om3ns and look forward to your input!

    #2
    What a story, glad you've arrived at this point now. Great to see an Oxford Green!

    DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
    /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
    More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

    Comment


      #3
      So, the first order of business was to gut the interior and attack that damn aftermarket security system. There's literally no advantage to it I can see other than to be able to remote start your car. Also, you lose the key fob functionality and damn I hate bulky keys/keychains!

      Lets start at the trunk. You see, the PO, or someone before him, was trying to build this into a "show car". so the trunk was a custom mess of MDF and "suede". this had to go - unfortunately he also glued directly to the metal beneath AND I had no oem carpeting for the trunk. the twin 12" subs had to go too.
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      I can't find any old pics of the MDF pieces but.. they weren't really like.. attached to anything while they were in there.

      Then I moved onto removing all the wiring that this guy had put in. Between rewiring the trans, rewiring the speakers, and wiring in this aftermarket security / auto start thing it was a mess.


      Here is the mess under the steering column. In fact, my foot nudged one of these and the brakes went into failsafe / full-on mode. Cop wasn't too thrilled about this.
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      This is what the EWS bypass looks like. The guts of the second key are dismantled and put into this box so that the car can satisfy EWS during a remote-start. "Sekurity"
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      A bunch of extra speaker wires:
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      The Fusebox:
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      Here are most of the wires (some have already been removed and tossed before):
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      Although it felt quite nice to have removed all this cancer from the car and to see it in a pile here. I still have to get the key remote working again, I haven't attacked that yet. Not sure if its going to throw any other electrical errors or codes yet but we'll see. At least this is all out and the car still starts and drives normally. But I also have some loose wires so that's pretty suspect.

      Comment


        #4
        Great color and start but you posted in the main e46 forum rather than the build journals

        3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

        Comment


          #5
          The center console of this car was a mess. The Radio was gone, The bezel/console trim was cracked. the storage door thing was shot and the tray wouldn't stay in the console. Window switches were broken. The guy had cut up the HVAC box for his double din setup or whatever.

          I ended up picking an AVIN Avant 3 head unit with the backup camera option to replace the dead unit. Picked up the correct console trim with the button relocation for a double-din and new storage door. "Repaired" the HAVAC box.

          Decided to go with bavsound speaker upgrades. A good middle ground for an improvement without diving into the deep end with a custom setup. You can get better sound yes, but keep the goal in mind - this is a *clean* solution. You'll also see the ebay sub box and amp I picked up since they were MIA.
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          Test run of the Avant 3 unit to make sure I've got my connection right. After installing one of these AVIN units on an E38 WITH the DSP and the Resler iBus app this went pretty smoothly. However, the E38 was running an Avant 4 and after using that for a bit I'm going to upgrade this unit. The step up in software is rather dramatic.
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          To "repair" the hvac box, I used JB Plastic Weld, and some Lexan I had laying around. Its not.. the prettiest. but the original pieces were all hacked up and I didn't have any black plastic. At lease you don't see it!

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          Here it is somewhat buttoned up. You may notice the shift boot and knob. I'll get to those later. This is how it goes when you write a story using 4 years worth of material rather than as it unfolds.
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          The previous owner had installed some MTX Audio garbage into all the locations.
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          I had to order a new set of HK Rear speakers. They come attached to this plastic bracket that the grilles screw into. You have to separate the bracket and then glue the BavSound speakers in. The PO had done this with some cheap MTX speakers and housings so I needed new ones. These are them, and honestly they're in solid shape. I don't even know if its worth it but i'm still gonna swap them.
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          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by oceansize View Post
            Great color and start but you posted in the main e46 forum rather than the build journals

            https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...build-journals
            Ooof, yeah always been a lurker, not a poster.

            Perhaps an admin can throw me over? I'll see if I can figure it out in the meantime.

            Comment


              #7
              such a bummer when a PO creates a wiring mess, but the car itself looks like it has good bones! excited to see the progress on this

              Comment


                #8
                Holy crap, glad to hear your friend recovered. Remote start on a manual car is just asking for trouble, I usually park in gear anyways along with using the handbrake. Glad you got the wiring mess cleaned up. I'm also jealous of your garage space, coming from a guy living in the suburbs of the GTA. Where in Ontario are you?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Bad Om3n View Post

                  Ooof, yeah always been a lurker, not a poster.

                  Perhaps an admin can throw me over? I'll see if I can figure it out in the meantime.
                  I think I know how to do that... lemme attempt!
                  E46 324i k24/dct/turbo Build Thread
                  Phoenix Yellow e46m3 Build Thread

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I moved your thread and left a pointer for a week in the main forum.

                    Just read through this, holy cow. I'm glad your friend is OK, what a crazy story. If you need another HVAC unit, I have a spare in the garage you're welcome to have...although it does not have your cool clear peak through window.
                    E46 324i k24/dct/turbo Build Thread
                    Phoenix Yellow e46m3 Build Thread

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by liam821 View Post
                      I moved your thread and left a pointer for a week in the main forum.

                      Just read through this, holy cow. I'm glad your friend is OK, what a crazy story. If you need another HVAC unit, I have a spare in the garage you're welcome to have...although it does not have your cool clear peak through window.
                      TYVM for the shuffle Sir 🙏
                      I appreciate the offer but I'm not looking to pull a dashboard right now. perhaps down the road I'd like to set that straight though 😀

                      Holy crap, glad to hear your friend recovered. Remote start on a manual car is just asking for trouble, I usually park in gear anyways along with using the handbrake. Glad you got the wiring mess cleaned up. I'm also jealous of your garage space, coming from a guy living in the suburbs of the GTA. Where in Ontario are you?
                      I *used* to always park in gear along with the handbrake too. Thanks I spent a bit of time trying to find a place with a descent detached garage. This one is kind of sneaky, its 2 cars wide but deep enough that it has a 3-car footprint! I'm down in the Windsor area, to be honest probably the biggest factor in making this all possible. I grew up in the GTA, with the housing costs there none of this would ever be possible. But I do miss it still.

                      I see your FSAE car 👀👀

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Bad Om3n View Post

                        I *used* to always park in gear along with the handbrake too. Thanks I spent a bit of time trying to find a place with a descent detached garage. This one is kind of sneaky, its 2 cars wide but deep enough that it has a 3-car footprint! I'm down in the Windsor area, to be honest probably the biggest factor in making this all possible. I grew up in the GTA, with the housing costs there none of this would ever be possible. But I do miss it still.

                        I see your FSAE car 👀👀
                        Yeah, the housing market is insane here. I actually lived in Windsor for 4 months, I did my first coop at Centerline. My poor car was just street parked for that time, but what can you do.

                        Haha I'm guessing you were on another FSAE team? I spent most of my free time in undergrad on it and looking back on it I'm super appreciative on the things I got to do and learn. Like for example I tuned our 600RR from scratch with a Motec M150 - if I wanted that sort of experience now I'd have to pay big bucks for a live training session on a dyno.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          At this point I've got the interior out. I was fortunate enough to find someone who was turning his E46 into a track car and basically sold me all of the interior from the beltline up. This way I don't have to deal with the PO's suede covered mess.

                          The PO also put a bunch of sound damping everywhere in the trunk, pulling that off was a challenge - but I didn't do it all at once. I just kind of wrestled with a piece at a time with each trip out to the Garage.

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                          Generally, quite a pain. But we'll get through it with some patience.

                          Next, my plan is to get the subframe out of the car for the rear reinforcements. So I get to work removing the exhaust, heat shields, driveshaft, rear suspension bits, all the trims and whatnot. I know while I'm in there, that I'm going to replace the shifter. It didn't feel too great, and the mechanic who inspected my car at the BMW dealer told me the PO shaved the guibo and stuff (presumably a non-M shifter arm). I also decided to upgrade the shifter because as I mentioned, the goal here is to focus on how the car feels - and I rather enjoy it when a cars shifts feel right. I ended up going with a AutoSolutions kit which i'll talk about in more detail later.


                          Below, I'm removing the drive shaft. I want to talk about the jack in that picture for a moment. I did some research on a good jack to try and find something better than the crap I grew up using. I settled on this Arcan XL2T. I don't think they're in production anymor but I noticed Sunex and other now selling jacks with the same frames. Two things must be said
                          1.) This frame is amazing. Fantastically low and long, amazing lift height, made removing these parts possible/easier as a solo guy.
                          2.) The hydraulics are garbage. This thing leaked from like week 1. I've been feeding it more and more jack oil because its a relatively cheap way to kick the can down the road but damn I need to find a solution here.
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                          If that leak is solved I'll content this is The Best jack to work on car.

                          Once I've got the driveshaft out, I've got this masterpiece staring me in the face.
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                          I mean, I guess it works 💁‍♂️

                          Eventually, I got the rear subframe out. Working on a car from the states (this one spent some time in the south, too) it was pretty refreshing to see all the bolts just like... come out. remarkably drama-free experience! Although, wiggling the subframe down was a bit sketch as I was afraid to bend the long bolts it mounts to. This is much better with a friend. Thanks Covid!

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                          The exhaust was loose in several places, sounded rickety whenever you'd turn the car off. Unsurprisingly.

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                          Victory!
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                          So now I have to disassemble this rear subframe / suspension combo and I'm about to learn all about BMW splines. I don't know how many of you reading this have ever had to pop your rear axles out but holy hell I've never encountered anything like this. Allow me to tell you a short story.

                          So, I try to pop the axles out with a deadblow, maybe even a small sledge with some wood as is par for the course with every other axle i've removed. This was not working. Fine, time to get serious and bust out the puller to pop this thing out of the hub flange.
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                          NOPE, after tightening it up as far as I was comfortable, and THEN reefing on it with a full blown sledgehammer, I end up here:
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                          At this point my mind is blown, and the internet tells me this is a thing. Ok, fine. I decide to find a local BMW indy to press these bad boys out for me. While I'm at it, I bring them a host of other bushings to press in. At this point I'm rebuilding the entire rear suspension with all new bushings and mounts. I'll talk more about those later. I bring them all the parts and ask them to do all the presses. a couple days go by and I call them since I figure this should take them an afternoon to just do the pressing. They complain that my parts "broke their 30T press". and that they can't get the bushings out. Not only that, but they broke my rear trailing arm too. They then proceeded to charge me for all their hourly time regardless. I was going to cause a shitshow over this, but It just wasn't worth the time. I ordered the tools to do it myself for less money than their hourly rate added up to... and did it myself. Rather embarassing. Here is how that went.

                          Here is the broken part:
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                          They didn't support the bushing bore from the opposite side. they just clamped the whole arm somehow and let the bushing ear bear the entire load. Rather amateur. No wonder it broke.

                          Here is the "broken press":
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                          The press didn't break, but the tech bent the plates he was using. I'm not even a mechanic and I did it with a press 1/3 the size easily.

                          So I took to Amazon and this is my haul:
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                          Bearing Press Kit
                          Bushing Press Kit
                          C-Clamp Press Kit
                          Spring Compressor
                          5lb Slide Hammer
                          10T Hydraulic Gear Puller *****

                          That last tool is the secret sauce to this axle-removal recipe. If anyone is stuck, this is the tool to use. But even then, I needed to use an extended lever from something else and it made me uncomfortable. I ended up hiding behind a plywood shield until it let go.

                          Below is the replacement Control Arm + Axle off eBay to replace the broken one from the shop. Hence the mangled dust shield.
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                          Safety Third!
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                          I got myself a 10T press from Princess Auto (Canadian Harbor Freight). I use all the dies from the press kits with this instead of the c-clamps. It all ended up being less than the tech's hours! Of course, just like my jack, the hydraulics on this press are dying the moment its assembled. I ended up replacing the bottle jack with a 12T husky unit and everything's been peachy since. I've used these on like 5 or 6 other cars by now so money well spent.
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                          So now I noticed that the ends of my axles are peened over from all this fighting:
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                          I figured I might be able to grind it down. Did some research to see if anyone's done this, apparently its common. The internet will have you think grinding down the peened over part is hard but it really wasn't. This area is also beyond the threads so I figure it isn't being stressed the same.
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                          Now that everything is finally apart. Its time to put things back together! Here is how I approached this:

                          -Differential Mounts -> OEM [From my research, any stiffer mounts translate significant gear whine NVH - this aligns with my understanding and I don't want such NVH]
                          -Subframe Mounts -> CMP Auto Engineering Solid Aluminum. [Solid subframe mounts will improve response and *Feel without dramatic NVH increase *(depends on how other parts are connected to the subframe) - CMP Mounts actually compensate for the lower mounting plane as a result of reinforcing plates. This helps maintain suspension geometry.]
                          -RCAB -> Synchro Design Works Isolated Monoball. [Isolated monoballs appear to be the move here from all my research. Improved response with minimal NVH
                          -Control Arms -> OEM [If you study the OEM design, you'll notice that the outboard "bushings" are actually monoballs. They have no play and are solid. No aftermarket bushing is going to improve upon this. The inboard bushings are rubber. And this is where all the compliance comes into play. I left these OEM rubber in order to help soak up some of the crap roads we have over here. But to be honest, after doing a full poly swap on my buddies STi it really didn't seem too stiff and I may consider poly inboard mounts in the future.

                          Of course, I'll replace the wheel bearings and parking brakes as well! Lets take a look at some of that part candy 🤤🤤
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                          Old Diff Bushings
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                          New Diff Bushings:
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                          In this case, unless you go for poly I think you have to buy the bushings with the case if I remember correctly. At least it feels real nice putting this together.
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                          Standard DIY bushing removal:
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                          Cleaned up and POR15'd the parts before pressing in the new bearings.
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                          New parking brake hardware:
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                          Trailing Arms Ready to Go:
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                          OOPS - Pay attention to the orientation of your Bearings! Encoder Inside!
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                          Was very frustrating to have to do that over. Not only do you have do disassemble the entire trailing arm again. But once those bearings are pressed in, they don't come out without getting destroyed. Had to buy another rear wheel bearing (pricey bearings!). Make sure they're in right!!!!

                          Here are the old wheel bearings for reference. They didn't make any noise or anything, but they sure look crusty.
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                          I decided to throw a set of ECS adjustable rear lower control arms in. I ended up deciding to put coilovers on the car. We'll get to those soon - but the point here is that I realized there would be no way to properly align the car after it was lowered without a set of these. Once I got them it was very clear how much stronger and stiffer they were than the OEM ones. Keep in mind that the OEM ones are likely designed this way to collapse on purpose in an impact. But this means there may be some Feel Gains on the table! I mean, I can squeeze this thing with 2 fingers...
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                          OK I *Think* that covers the rear subframe! I'll be filling the diff with OEM Spec fluid - at the end of the day you don't change diff fluid often. and considering how finicky some LSD's can be I decided to trust the engineering at BMW on this one.

                          You know, when I put this together and looked at it before slapping it in the car. I thought it looked pretty good! But then I saw some of these other build threads. I need to step my game up 💪
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                          Attached Files
                          Last edited by Bad Om3n; 02-18-2021, 05:35 PM.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by timmo View Post

                            Yeah, the housing market is insane here. I actually lived in Windsor for 4 months, I did my first coop at Centerline. My poor car was just street parked for that time, but what can you do.

                            Haha I'm guessing you were on another FSAE team? I spent most of my free time in undergrad on it and looking back on it I'm super appreciative on the things I got to do and learn. Like for example I tuned our 600RR from scratch with a Motec M150 - if I wanted that sort of experience now I'd have to pay big bucks for a live training session on a dyno.
                            Yeah, I did Formula for 3 years and Baja for 1 year. FSAE is where I learned to weld! We also ran a 600RR - I learned how to use GT Power to design some more appropriate cams for the application / restriction. But we never ended up producing them 😅

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                              #15
                              Ok, I've been avoiding talking about Brakes the whole time I discussed the subframe. I took the brakes off when I disassembled everything and it would have been easy to get lost on a tangent.

                              At first, I knew I would be upgrading the pad setup to improve brake feel and performance. I also knew I would be switching to braided lines in pursuit of that "feeling" goal. I also know that "caliper rebuild kits" [two seals] are pretty cheap so I figured I'd rebuild the calipers while I'm at it.

                              Here are the calipers as removed:
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                              Nothing wrong with them. Could us a cleaning I suppose. BUT, I had time on my hands now. With all the other work going on, and the delay on components during pandemic, I decided to have them powdercoated! Still wayy cheaper than a big brake kit (which, hey, one day I'd like to do the Porsche swap).

                              I decided to go with a bronze/copper colour to try and tie into the Cinnamon interior and contrast the Green nicely. The shop sold me who their suppliers were and I settled on something called "Dorado" and it looks like this:
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                              It actually ties into the SDW rear monoballs - too bad you'll never see em! Also, nobody was going to pick up on that ///M from behind the wheel. something had to be done!
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                              Once assembled, the calipers were loaded with a set of HAWK Street 5.0 pads, plumbed with Stop Tech stainless braided lines, and assembled over a set of StopTech drilled and slotted rotors.

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                              Once it all comes together it looks like this:
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                              All of this was power bled with Brembo DOT4 fluid, and the brake pedal bushings were upgraded to delrin units which help eliminate side-side slop of the pedal and make it feel solid. Again with all the feelings.
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                              OE Bushing on the left, Delrin on the right. Without the split, the delrin ones are much harder to install! I can report improved pedal feel.
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