MSSFLASHER Help (Bricked DME?)

[skristedja]

I think you forgot a link in this one! I’ll gladly hit him up.
Any chance you’re located in the states and want to make back some of the investment into your bdm tools?

I’m just upset because I stupidly looked over the reset flash counter button. I have no idea to how that works though.
On the bright side if you’re in the states and have an issue with it and I have to purchase the bdm tools for it then I can help 😂


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https://github.com/YulCmr/MSS54_HP_CSL_Clone_info_gathering/blob/master/hardware_modifications/BDM.mkd

Whoops! And no, I'm keeping mine. Been very useful for me.

[R3Z3N]

MSS54 Flasher Virginize is VASTLY different than Wipe Flash Counter.

Wipe flash counter does just as it states. I wish TAP had protected the Virginize button with a "Type OK to Proceed" or some other step....

[Darbshaw]

MSS54 Flasher Virginize is VASTLY different than Wipe Flash Counter.

Wipe flash counter does just as it states. I wish TAP had protected the Virginize button with a "Type OK to Proceed" or some other step....

Well this I learned the hard way. Really kicking myself now. I’m starting to read into bdm’ing the ecu and it doesn’t seem all too complicated. So hopefully this will be fixable after a couple hundred dollars in tools


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[Darbshaw]

Okay, so I have been trying to follow along with the guide for BDM MSS54/HP with FGTech Galletto 4 and I have a few questions to make sure I am on the right track.

1. Does anyone know the best place to buy the Galleto from? I have found prices ranging from $60 to $350. Obviously, I run into the issue where I don't know what I am looking at or for to find the best option.
I found one on amazon but this seems to be just a knockoff? Is there worry with this at all? Sadly I cannot find one in the states yet. I have no issue with buying a knockoff but I just do not know what's important or needed for my purpose.
2.Would any test bench power supply work, assuming it can supply 12v, 5A? Are there specific leads I can get to help with the job of connecting and powering the ECU during the benching process? Although it seems that some of these Galletto kits come with more of the parts included.
I was looking at this power supply which seems it would do the trick.


I guess the far out there third option, which seems to be the cheapest is using this bench flash harness. Although I am not sure if this will be enough in my case? It still seems I would be left making a custom OBD cable for this purpose and finding some sort of program to flash the ecu. Anyone have any experience using this?


Thank you for all of the help so far guys. I'm feeling slightly more optimistic about the situation. Just trying to dive into this whole end head first now haha.

[R3Z3N]

The bench flash harness gives you the ability to read and modify the DME outside the car. That is all. It is just as effective as being IN the car. No better no worse. So, with that, if you still can't read/write your DME IN your car, a bench flash harness will be of no help. But as terra states below, if using a BDM and having to short some pins, outside the car with a bench flash harness WOULD be easier.

IE: I made a bench flash harness so that I could flash OTHERs ECUs that they shipped to me, though I find that silly as it's more effective to do over Teamviewer. The days of shipping ECUs should have died...

[terra]

Thanks for the speedy response Terra. not the news I was looking for but a solution I guess.
Is there any negative or further damage I can do by doing the forced boot grounding the pins? Next question would be if you could explain the process a little further for me. Would I have to remove the DME from the car and power using an external power supply? Or can I ground these pins while connected?

Do you know if this repair with an external programmer is something offered by third parties? Or am I left with most likely just replacing my DME?

I suppose you could theoretically do it with the dme in the car, but it’d be a hell of a lot easier on a desk. The main risk would be shorting the wrong pins I guess. Done properly there should be no risk of making things worse.

[Darbshaw]

Thank you for all the help in this thread guys! I will be opening a new one to try and see if I can get any advice on grounding pin 32 to force boot mode. Just to keep the purpose of the threads clean.

[nextelbuddy]

i had an MSS54 DME brick on me last night or someone. i was flashing 3 DMEs, 2 HP and one NO HP. both HP were fine and on the non HP i did the read no problem, used ecuworx to make basic changes for rear o2 and then went to flash back and got the ECU Time out retrying.. and after that was bricked. go nothing buy "trouble Iding ECU" welp... first time for me.

great resources in this thread. Is it the same pin 37 on NON HP DMEs as well to get into boot mode?

someone also gave me another MSS54 non HP dme thats bricked in a different way. even after virginzing it and flashing a full binary and matching tune file, the ECU can be read and written to but always shows its stuck in programing mode on the cluster. not sure whats up with that one.

[thegenius46m]

Welp add me to the club... recently picked up another MSS54HP DME and had a friend convert it to CSL bootrom over bdm. Got it back and noticed the cluster was throwing dsc and yellow brake light errors which upon further digging showed 5E19 in the MK60, CAN communication error. This also would not allow me to align the EWS to the DME. When I got to the alignment function in INPA a communication error was thrown every time. Tested 3 other DME's and neither of them threw the CAN error. I hooked up the dme in question to my bench setup and figured I'd try turning off EWS just to see what happens. Before I sent this new dme off I scanned the codes to confirm it didn't have any internal faults, but am now kicking myself I didn't plug it into the car. Well I started to flash the modified bin file with bmw flash via the bench setup and it never started the flash. Hung on a message like "retrieving contents..." (I don't recall exactly) then just sat there. Had no choice but to abort so I figured nbd if it bricked the partial flash I can just load up MSSFlasher and reflash the partial. This isn't my first rodeo...

WELL that's where shit hit the fan. When I clicked "Identify ECU" in Mssflasher it timed out and threw an error trying to read the EEprom. That tells me it's a real brick which is a first as a corrupt partial flash typically doesn't do that.

Anyone ever run into this before? Going to have it hooked back up via BDM and reload the software but I now don't know if this dme is tweaked or it's just corrupt software that was loaded during the bdm process.The CAN error has me concerned for sure. Sucks I literally just replaced my other CSL converted MSS54HP for a 5E19 CAN error due to a shorted pin.

[mushitaro]

It's a late post, but I'll leave it as a note to help future people.

I had the same problem, but I was able to recover.

First, if you want to reset the flash counter, use "Erace FC". Mssflasher's youtube guide is out of date.
(I made the same mistake.)

In the case of this thread, I expect it to be because the versions of partial bin and Full bin do not match.

The first step in recovery is to flash your tune file (partial bin)→Now you can communicate.

Next, flash your backed up Full Bin.( If you haven't backed it up, you can download a Full Bin without a VIN from GitHub. ← Many thanks)

This will completely restore it.

When You use a full bin on GitHub, the VIN is not registered, You get an EWS error and the engine does not start.

In that case, you need to fix the Bin using Ecuworx tool etc. to remove the EWS error, or rewrite it to your own VIN using Tool32 etc.

[0-60motorsports]

Does anyone know if MSSFlasher Creator is still around and updating the program versions?