Despite all the information and files being public, I still get a lot of requests for flashes (which I personally just do not have the time to do anymore). So I decided to gather all the information you need and make an easy to follow DIY.
Pre-requisites:
Let's get the software first.
Now open up your BDM interface (the plastic shell should just separate). Remove the ribbon cable. Connect your wires to the one of the BDM headers (either one is fine, just use the appropriate pinout per the label next to the header), and set the jumper to 5v (appropriate connection highlighted in red)
Onto the LCM itself- the solder points you want to use are below.
There is a coating on the LCM - you can burn away what you need with your soldering iron. I'd recommend cleaning the points with alcohol after burning away that coating in those spots, and then solder your connections.
Should look something like this when you're done:
From this point be careful when handling the programmer and LCM. You don't want to lift those solder points from the board.
So now you should have your software installed, your BDM interface setup properly, and the proper connections made to the LCM. Let's program the thing!
Verify everything looks correct against the image below.
Click "Program Flash". Should take a few seconds. If you get an error message, try using a different USB cable. In some cases, the cable that came with the programmer has been known to be faulty.
Now disconnect your USB and desolder your wires. You now have a virgin LCM with the latest software. Plug it back into your car. You'll get a tamper dot - that's okay, we'll fix it now.
You're pretty much done. Your LCM should be updated and at the latest software. Code back whatever customizations you had as well as any new features you want to use using the usual NCS Expert procedures.
Also to give credit where it's due, efc3 is the one who figured out how to setup this BDM interface for use with the LCM rather than the more expensive automotive tools out there.
Pre-requisites:
- An LCM that is SW3.6* or newer (though if it's newer, you probably don't feel a need to do this flash).
- If you're new at this kind of thing, I'd strongly recommend just buying a spare even if you have the right one
- *If you have an SW3.56 LCM, your board is the same as the newer ones, but the CPU is different. If you replace it with the correct CPU (MC9S12D64CPVE or MC9S12D64MPVE), you can follow the rest of this DIY. All that said, SW3.6 LCMs are cheap enough online that I'd recommend just buying one of those instead of risking destroying your stock LCM
- A "USBDM" Programmer - I personally tested this one 10 minutes ago with successs: https://www.amazon.com/Programmer-In...gateway&sr=8-3
- 4 male -> female jumper wires (or similar - something you can connect to the programmer on one end and solder to the board at the other end)
- Soldering iron and solder
- -Strongly recommend having some flux to go along with this, but these soldering points are large enough that you can get by with a poor connection
- NCS Expert for the post-flash coding
Let's get the software first.
- Download and install the USBDM software here: https://sourceforge.net/projects/usb...n.msi/download
- And the appropriate drivers here: https://sourceforge.net/projects/usb....12.1/Drivers/
- If you're running WinXP download the WinXP files, if you're running Vista or later, download the Win files. X32 for 32-bit, X64 for 64-bit.
Now open up your BDM interface (the plastic shell should just separate). Remove the ribbon cable. Connect your wires to the one of the BDM headers (either one is fine, just use the appropriate pinout per the label next to the header), and set the jumper to 5v (appropriate connection highlighted in red)
Onto the LCM itself- the solder points you want to use are below.
- Red = VCC
- Brown = GND
- Purple = BKGD
- Yellow = Reset
- Ignore the green connection, it's not needed with this programmer.
There is a coating on the LCM - you can burn away what you need with your soldering iron. I'd recommend cleaning the points with alcohol after burning away that coating in those spots, and then solder your connections.
Should look something like this when you're done:
From this point be careful when handling the programmer and LCM. You don't want to lift those solder points from the board.
So now you should have your software installed, your BDM interface setup properly, and the proper connections made to the LCM. Let's program the thing!
- Download the LCM_SW47.s19 file attached to this post
- Connect a USB cable from the programmer to your computer. Your computer should detect it and install the appropriate driver automatically.
- Open up the "HCS12 Programmer" application (should be in Start -> USBDM 4.12.whatever -> HCS12 Programmer).
- Click "Load Hex File" and load LSZ_SW47.s19.
- Click "Detect Chip" - it should detect something if your connections are all appropriate.
- For Security, set "Image"
- For Programming Erase Mode, set "EraseMass"
Verify everything looks correct against the image below.
Click "Program Flash". Should take a few seconds. If you get an error message, try using a different USB cable. In some cases, the cable that came with the programmer has been known to be faulty.
Now disconnect your USB and desolder your wires. You now have a virgin LCM with the latest software. Plug it back into your car. You'll get a tamper dot - that's okay, we'll fix it now.
- Open NCS Expert
- Load your VO/FA from your AKMB module (not your ALSZ since it's blank)
- Do an FA_WRITE job on your ALSZ module,
- Do an FGNR_SCHRIEBEN job as well.
- Now load a blank FSW_PSW file and do the SG_CODIEREN job.
You're pretty much done. Your LCM should be updated and at the latest software. Code back whatever customizations you had as well as any new features you want to use using the usual NCS Expert procedures.
Also to give credit where it's due, efc3 is the one who figured out how to setup this BDM interface for use with the LCM rather than the more expensive automotive tools out there.
Attached Files
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