Originally posted by CARBONKEY
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CSL tune aux fan curve location?
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Currently there is +15 celsium outside and i dont have any issues, fan works properly. don't know why this problem was by the winter
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yes i did it, ots working now, but i changed more stuff, cant remember now, almost all the klimalange folder set to 0Originally posted by karter16 View Post
Have you tried setting K_ELU_KKOS_ERSATZ to zero? The code does a max select from AC requirement and TKA (radiator outlet temp) requirement, so I *think* that whatever K_ELU_KKOS_ERSATZ is set to will be the minimum duty cycle in the event that CAN messages aren't received.
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Have you tried setting K_ELU_KKOS_ERSATZ to zero? The code does a max select from AC requirement and TKA (radiator outlet temp) requirement, so I *think* that whatever K_ELU_KKOS_ERSATZ is set to will be the minimum duty cycle in the event that CAN messages aren't received.Originally posted by CARBONKEY View Postdo you know what is the procedure to remove the logic that force the dme into fail-safe mode? can i do it via ncs expert or do i need a different program? Im totally lost. being a newbie in the forum may I open a new post with that problem, im desperate, i have tryed to dissable it in tuner pro with no luck, fn test works perfect on inpa.
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It's been a very long time but I think it originally started as a suggestion of what to set when using the actual Z4M fan since it's a considerably more powerful fan than our aux fans and shouldn't need to spin as fast to maintain a target temperature. But at some point that morphed into being the 'ideal' fan setting for electric fan usersOriginally posted by heinzboehmer View PostYeah ever since I learned what the z4m settings actually were, I never understood why there seems to be a belief that they'll help with cooling issues. Stock seems like a much better choice.
Made this a while back and I think it very clearly shows that the z4m settings will make things worse if you're only running an electric fan: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...2586#post22586
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do you know what is the procedure to remove the logic that force the dme into fail-safe mode? can i do it via ncs expert or do i need a different program? Im totally lost. being a newbie in the forum may I open a new post with that problem, im desperate, i have tryed to dissable it in tuner pro with no luck, fn test works perfect on inpa.Originally posted by karter16 View Post
Correct - if the DME doesn't get AC info over CANbus it reverts to using K_ELU_KKOS_ERSATZ which is defaulted to 60% in the CSL config.
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Correct - if the DME doesn't get AC info over CANbus it reverts to using K_ELU_KKOS_ERSATZ which is defaulted to 60% in the CSL config.Originally posted by CARBONKEY View Post
Hello, im having same problem on my e30 s54 swap with pwm fan. The dme needs to know the pressure of the ac, if not the fan kicks at 60% for safety reasons, thats what i think, did you make it work? I have been diggin in that problem for more than 2 weeks without luck.
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Hello, im having same problem on my e30 s54 swap with pwm fan. The dme needs to know the pressure of the ac, if not the fan kicks at 60% for safety reasons, thats what i think, did you make it work? I have been diggin in that problem for more than 2 weeks without luck.Originally posted by BMWfanz View PostMaybe someone else have same issue- I'm running on CSL map on my E30 S54- problem is that aux fan starts after 10 seconds after engine- works on low power appx. 30%- but there is cold outside- and coolant temperature outside of radiator is below zero- any ideas why does it works like this? Used INPA test of fan- it passes and activates
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Maybe someone else have same issue- I'm running on CSL map on my E30 S54- problem is that aux fan starts after 10 seconds after engine- works on low power appx. 30%- but there is cold outside- and coolant temperature outside of radiator is below zero- any ideas why does it works like this? Used INPA test of fan- it passes and activates
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Is Fan curve uses coolant water temperature sensor outside from radiator or that stands in engine?
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And that's exactly the way it should beOriginally posted by thegenius46m View Post
Either your cooling system is shot or you may have z4m fan temps. My car with ac full blast does not creep in 95 degree traffic with stock values.
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Either your cooling system is shot or you may have z4m fan temps. My car with ac full blast does not creep in 95 degree traffic with stock values.Originally posted by eacmen View Post
With A/C on?
I find temps are very stable with A/C off, when I turn A/C on at idle they creep.
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With A/C on?Originally posted by thegenius46m View Post
Very likely he may have the z4m fan curve. I sat in traffic last week in 90 degree temps and no creep at all with my spal fan and stock fan temps. I would definitely look into it!
I find temps are very stable with A/C off, when I turn A/C on at idle they creep.
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Very likely he may have the z4m fan curve. I sat in traffic last week in 90 degree temps and no creep at all with my spal fan and stock fan temps. I would definitely look into it!Originally posted by Rekpoint View PostI bought my car with the clutch fan deleted and a Spal fan using the aux fan controller in its place. When over 80 degrees stopped my temp needle starts to creep to 3/4s.
I know the PO was messing with ECUworx. Hopefully no Z4m fan curve. But I think I need to download this change the curves and fix this issue once and for all.
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I bought my car with the clutch fan deleted and a Spal fan using the aux fan controller in its place. When over 80 degrees stopped my temp needle starts to creep to 3/4s.
I know the PO was messing with ECUworx. Hopefully no Z4m fan curve. But I think I need to download this change the curves and fix this issue once and for all.
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