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CSL tune aux fan curve location?

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  • BMWfanz
    replied
    Maybe someone else have same issue- I'm running on CSL map on my E30 S54- problem is that aux fan starts after 10 seconds after engine- works on low power appx. 30%- but there is cold outside- and coolant temperature outside of radiator is below zero- any ideas why does it works like this? Used INPA test of fan- it passes and activates

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  • robgill
    replied
    Originally posted by BMWfanz View Post
    Is Fan curve uses coolant water temperature sensor outside from radiator or that stands in engine?
    The aux fan uses the coolant temp sensor in the lower radiator hose.

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  • BMWfanz
    replied
    Is Fan curve uses coolant water temperature sensor outside from radiator or that stands in engine?

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  • 0-60motorsports
    replied
    Originally posted by thegenius46m View Post

    Either your cooling system is shot or you may have z4m fan temps. My car with ac full blast does not creep in 95 degree traffic with stock values.
    And that's exactly the way it should be

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  • thegenius46m
    replied
    Originally posted by eacmen View Post

    With A/C on?

    I find temps are very stable with A/C off, when I turn A/C on at idle they creep.
    Either your cooling system is shot or you may have z4m fan temps. My car with ac full blast does not creep in 95 degree traffic with stock values.

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  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by thegenius46m View Post

    Very likely he may have the z4m fan curve. I sat in traffic last week in 90 degree temps and no creep at all with my spal fan and stock fan temps. I would definitely look into it!
    With A/C on?

    I find temps are very stable with A/C off, when I turn A/C on at idle they creep.

    Leave a comment:


  • thegenius46m
    replied
    Originally posted by Rekpoint View Post
    I bought my car with the clutch fan deleted and a Spal fan using the aux fan controller in its place. When over 80 degrees stopped my temp needle starts to creep to 3/4s.
    I know the PO was messing with ECUworx. Hopefully no Z4m fan curve. But I think I need to download this change the curves and fix this issue once and for all.
    Very likely he may have the z4m fan curve. I sat in traffic last week in 90 degree temps and no creep at all with my spal fan and stock fan temps. I would definitely look into it!

    Leave a comment:


  • Rekpoint
    replied
    I bought my car with the clutch fan deleted and a Spal fan using the aux fan controller in its place. When over 80 degrees stopped my temp needle starts to creep to 3/4s.
    I know the PO was messing with ECUworx. Hopefully no Z4m fan curve. But I think I need to download this change the curves and fix this issue once and for all.

    Leave a comment:


  • eacmen
    replied
    I am still in the middle of this but planning to use the KL_ELU_V table to set a multiplier of 1.5-2 to address idle heat soak issues while sitting in cold pits waiting to go out for HPDE sessions.

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  • thegenius46m
    replied
    Originally posted by 0-60motorsports View Post

    That is awesome! Can you please post a screenshot of the values? Thank you.
    See post 7. I'm just using stock fan curve values atm but if I see a need to lower the ramp up temps for the fan I will do so.

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  • 0-60motorsports
    replied
    Originally posted by thegenius46m View Post
    Well my overheating issue is 100% fixed with the fan curve values adjusted to come on earlier.
    That is awesome! Can you please post a screenshot of the values? Thank you.

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  • thegenius46m
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
    Yeah ever since I learned what the z4m settings actually were, I never understood why there seems to be a belief that they'll help with cooling issues. Stock seems like a much better choice.

    Made this a while back and I think it very clearly shows that the z4m settings will make things worse if you're only running an electric fan: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...2586#post22586

    ​​​​
    People don’t understand software lmao. Pretty sure the z4m dme interprets the data differently in terms of how those values are applied to a fan speed function for that car.

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  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Yeah ever since I learned what the z4m settings actually were, I never understood why there seems to be a belief that they'll help with cooling issues. Stock seems like a much better choice.

    Made this a while back and I think it very clearly shows that the z4m settings will make things worse if you're only running an electric fan: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...2586#post22586

    ​​​​

    Leave a comment:


  • thegenius46m
    replied
    Well my overheating issue is 100% fixed with the fan curve values adjusted to come on earlier.

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  • thegenius46m
    replied
    Originally posted by repoman89 View Post

    Yeah, you discovered what I also discovered and forgot to post. I made my own table since creating a reasonable fan curve isn’t rocket science. I have it turning on 100% by 82C at the moment, decreased recently from 85C because the needle would get to the middle parking in the paddock at the end of a session. I don’t think there’s a benefit to having it start to spool up any earlier than 39C or whatever the lowest value is and I also didn’t feel there would be any benefit to messing with the speed multiplier since BMW presumably tested vehicle speed vs airflow and set that appropriately.

    There’s also a max PWM value that was set for me to 0.9 (can’t remember the K symbol for it). I increased to 0.95 since the SPAL fan draws less power at full tilt than the aux fan.
    Awesome! I've been panicking the last few weeks as its gotten warmer here and my needle started creeping when idling. I rebuilt my engine over the winter and after replacing the water pump again (FCP) and going back to stock radiator as well as the spal this past weekend, the car was still creeping to 3/4 then would hit equilibrium. Moment I drove away and got into airflow the coolant temp would come right down. Also ran a bunch of different driving scenarios logging coolant temps between the rad outlet sensor and the sensor in the head via INPA to see what was happening. Well it's really clear now that the stupid Z4M fan table in the my tune that was not allowing the fan to start spinning fast enough and early enough to combat the temp rise.

    I highly recommend to everyone to NOT touch the Z4M values as repoman and I have found. When I hit 3/4 dot on the coolant gauge the spal still wasnt running at 100%!

    Just got the front pusher fan off tonight and revised the fan values back to stock for now for a baseline. Will adjust the fan table as needed.

    Leave a comment:

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