Any experience with U-Haul trailers

[Gt4]

Putting the car rearward would definitely help with tongue weight. I just assumed the car had to be all the way forward because of their tire nets.
You should post some close up photos of how you attached the straps (if you have them). Too late for me but It would help others.
My concern would be the liability risk. I would expect a huge lawsuit if there's an accident -- even if it weren't your fault -- since it isn't the recommended practice from U-haul. Maybe it would be different in Canada.




DC area. Anything near me was $350-400 per month for uncovered RV parking.
Yeah, I wouldn't be surprised if people left if they could telework.

Things are differents in Canada, no huge lawsuit!

I was using my own 10000lbs tow straps, you can’t use the one on the trailer if wheels aren’t against the wheels stoppers.

[specializedbndt]

this is great info. Those inner spines did some damage to the underside of my old M3. It was a new trailer, so the leading edges were sharp as hell.

[WOLFN8TR]

Anything near me was $350-400 per month for uncovered RV parking.

Wow that's crazy for uncovered RV parking!! I'm paying $295 a month for a 13'X35' enclosed storage unit in NV.
My lifted 2500HD fits inside with plenty of room left.

[K-Dawg]

I used a U-Haul Auto Transport twice last year. I had to put some wood blocks under the front tires to clear the front lip, but didn't have any issues otherwise.

[OldRanger]

I throw in another vote of 'YES' for using these trailers. I towed with a 5.7 Tundra, 500 mile round trip to VIR. Recommendations:
1) inspect the trailer at pickup for tire pressure and functional tie-down strap ratchets.
2) cut some 2x10 wood blocks to lift the front tires over the front lip. I needed about 2.5" of lift up, which required a plywood layer on top of the 2x10
3) if your car is lowered or has aero, you may need a solution like Race Ramps. I bought the BTI-RR-TR-6 because I plan to purchase a trailer eventually and will likely need them. If you need race ramps - you will also need wheel chocks for the trailer to keep it from shifting forward/backward when loading the car.

These trailers handle typical highway speeds and have supplemental brakes.

[dpaul]

I've towed cars often, so I know what you're dealing with. Using a U-Haul trailer works fine if you don't always need to drag. The straps they give you should work, but checking them to ensure they're not worn out is a good idea. Putting wood under the ramps helps, especially with cars that are low to the ground.

I had the same problem with finding a place to keep a trailer. So, I bought a used trailer instead. I looked around for used trailers near me and saw a good, intense trailer for about $5,000. It was better because I tow a lot, saving me from renting repeatedly. Plus, I found a cheaper place to keep my trailer than what RV spots cost.

[Mpassioned]

Another thing you can to do to help before you load the car is to get the back of the truck higher when trailer is attached. Just place a floor jack under the truck hitch ball bolt and trailer tongue, then jack it up some.
Make sure to jack is in a spot that the jack will stay put where its lifting, or drive the rear truck wheels up on some ramps works too. This will raise the front of the trailer and minimize the steepness of the ramps and put them more on plane and level with the trailer floor.

A lot of times I have seen guys get high centered when transitioning from ramp to trailer. This can also help minimize how much front lip/ramp clearance you need to deal with when driving onto the trailer.

I am in NOVA if you need help or want to talk further about towing or loading. Feel free to PM me.
I have a 28' enclosed I pull with a 3.5 Ecoboost and there are some important things to understand about towing if you haven't before.
As mentioned, having the proper tongue wgt is very important to have right.