Does anyone have an elegant solution for windshield defrosting using a heater blower fan and the stock vents? Race car has removed heater core and hvac but still have the blower motor cable I can use. Do not want to use the BW electric defrost kit, the lines on the windshield annoy me.
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Following this, I'd be open for some creative solutions outside of the heater grid -
I am also pursuing this mission. Recently purchased this:
Not really "elegant." Shipping package states 2.4 lbs., so it is light. I am thinking remove when weather is good.
Item says 800W, so ...65 amps? I believe the alternator makes 130 amps, so doable? The wires feeding it are 3mm diameter (copper part). I tested it with a spare car battery. Blows good CFM, very good heat. But after about 60 seconds the wires started to smoke and insulation started to melt.
I think the wires are undersized. Next step is open unit and rewire. 8 gauge?
My IHKA is still in place. Don't want to remove until I have a defrost solution. I was thankful to have defrost on my last rainy track day.
I have been studying Bentley looking for a 65 amp source. The unused fuse slot 103 is listed at 80 amp.Where exactly is the blower motor cable? Bentley says that is a 40 amp circuit.
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OK. So I'm stupid! Loose wire connections -> heat.
Wired it up properly and ran it for 10 minutes without a problem. Wires a bit warm to touch after 10 minutes. Next task is to figure out current load.
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It looks like this may be a solid contender as a defrost option. Once you have your wiring&ducting all said and done could you take a weight measurement?
I'd be curious how this compares to the heating gridComment
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Assuming your car has no windows...why is defrosting an issue?Comment
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I've personally had issues with the damp and humid Ohio weather. Especially on wet or transitioning conditions. More so on highway speeds compared to track driving. So this has been a low priority task to solveOriginally posted by bigjae46 View PostComment
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I used to have lots of problems in the morning with the houston humidity but now I use a car cover overnight. That eliminates any fogging issue.
I don't have wipers and don't really drive in the rain so I can't answer that.Comment
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Last half hour at the Mid Ohio WRL race it started down pouring, made it impossible to see at triple digit speeds even with rain lights, we had an air hose aimed at the windshield but simply could not keep up. At COTA the team had to use the old rag on a stick method.
I got feedback that a few have tried the e36 cabrio heated blowers, but did not find them to work well.Comment
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I just find it interesting...the weird things you need to learn for a track/race car. I always took defrosters for granted until I removed it.
Lexan or glass? Maybe something like a wax, sealant or ceramic coating can help make an air hose work well enough?Comment
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Front is glass and they had coated it but not sure with what.
Browsing the spec e46 group on Facebook I also came across an AAF post that they were developing an adapter that will connect a 3" to the stock dashboard vents but I didn't see it on their website.Attached FilesComment
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I have the bimmerworld electric kit. Not elegant but it does work well.Comment
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I've rode in cars with that...it would drive me crazy. I will admit, I am weird about windshield cleanliness. Rental cars always drive me nuts with the haze on the inside of the windshield.Originally posted by lcrain View PostComment
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Been eyeing this one for the car.
CFM is a bit lower than the common Attwood 3" Bilge Fan, which pushes 145 cfm vs the 110 cfm of the T7 design kit. That said, T7 does offer bigger version with more flow and/or you could add a Attwood fan in-line to just help with the air speed as well. Price wise also pretty reasonable honestly.Comment
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You know what drives me crazier than the lines on the windshield? When I can't see out of it at all due to condensation and skip sessions or races.Originally posted by bigjae46 View PostComment
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