1997 m3 sedan with s54 swap

[stephen]

I have done a few more design iterations on the ducting. I'm going to make it in 3 pieces that slip fit and tab together. Section 1 is a bell mouth and about an inch of flange for the first main section to fit into. This will be mounted directly to the bumper itself. Section two will run up to sit level with the top of the frame rails. And then section 3 will run to whatever intake use case. This makes the design more flexible and it becomes a general purpose high flow duct for a e36 m3s by changing out the section 3 piece. I plan to run the first two sections just feeding my afe intake until I decide what I'm doing for an air box. It's looking more like I'll do a karbonius CSL box. Also if anyone is local to me (NC) with a CSL box I can scan their installed intake to come up with a section 3 that will fit their car.

I’m local-ish with a Karbonius box if you want measurements

[3staxontheradio]

Awesome i'll send you a DM and we can figure something out.

I had an exciting moment on I40 today while doing 75. The car hasn't been driven that much for the last few years and I'm driving it at least 3 days a week right now so its going through a little shakedown phase. Hopefully I don't find too many more little issues. Also I have owned 3 BMWs now- an e46 330i, briefly had an r53 mini, and now this. All three cars have had window regulators fail on me pretty quickly...

[3staxontheradio]

Ordered a new window regulator.. strong motor in these and it bent itself up. I also found this rubber piece in the door. Should I get anything else while I'm in there? I got the window back in place after popping one of the guides back into the regulator track but it still comes out (I assume because bent) I straighted it as best as I could with pliers. I managed to get the window rolled up directly with my fiance putting pressure on it into the right direction .

[3staxontheradio]

Getting a crankshaft position sensor code and googling suggests these don't fail that often. Going to look at the wiring today buy I also have a replacement sensor coming. Has anyone else here had those code and did it end up being the sensor?

[3staxontheradio]

Did a scan of the outer bumper surface at the fog light opening and sent off a file for the first section to do a test print in nylon. I was out of developer spray which I normally use for a surface treatment so I ended up using painters tape.

The two ears on this piece will receive a small screw through the back of the fog light mounting holes

[3staxontheradio]

I'm doing fuel and spark refresh before I do a dyno tuning day at the end of August. I use the car a lot so I don't have the downtime available to send my injectors out for service. That has me looking for a a second set I can get cleaned up and swap. Is there any reason not to look for a stock injector? Duty cycle on tuned stock long blocks with 93 have enough overhead? Anything offer a better spray pattern or performance?

This set on ebay is cheap and they claim flow testing/cleaning.. Cheap stuff on ebay makes me uncomfortable:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/283565363269

[heinzboehmer]

This post reminded me of this thread: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...103#post274103

Seems like fitting a giant snorkel is doable in the E36 chassis.

[3staxontheradio]

That's awesome. I don't think we actually need the double inlet and the tightest part of the path is passing behind the headlights (at least with euro headlights).

I'm on vacation for the next week, have a growing list of actual stuff to deal with on the car, but then I want to get a design into solidworks and start cfd on it.

[3staxontheradio]

I started wiring my new canbus cluster from JBanzhaf and since I have the plenum off I pulled the crankshaft sensor and replaced it. It had a slightly alarming amount of ferrous metal sticking to it. I know these aren't a frequent service item on S54s but has anyone pulled one before and did it look like this? Also does the sensor look a little extra bent?

[3staxontheradio]

I got my oil analysis back from blackstone. Only thing out of spec is high copper. This is the first change since the previous owner did WPC oem rod bearings. Any thoughts on sources for copper in the oil? I do not think its bearings or bearing wear in since copper is the only metal found. I would expect metals from the outer layers to appear first? Either way not particularly concerned but will keep doing samples and watch the trend.

[3staxontheradio]

For anyone curious about affordable crimp tools I have been through 3 now and found something that works well.

I did not get good results with my tool aid 18920 using die 189922. This mangles the strain relief connection and also doesn't provide a reliable crimp

Tool aid 18600 has no way to cleanly crimp the strain relief.

This crimper from milspecwiring works really well. Looking at this photo close up I need to use less hand pressure when criming the strain relief:

https://www.milspecwiring.com/16-30-AWG-OPEN-BARREL-CRIMP-TOOL_p_405.html?lt_c=1&quickcart=1&qc_action=quickcart

[3staxontheradio]

I have been doing a ton of stuff with the car in preparation of a dyno day on Monday. Coils, plugs, fuel filter, injectors, a new crank position sensor. Also I killed my starter and starter replacement on these is a pain in the ass.

I bought this set of injectors from ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/283565363269

and then shipped them to https://www.injectorpulse.com/ to get them checked out/cleaned. Glad I did. These were counterfeits, absolute garbage, and could have killed my engine. Counterfeit confirmed when the sticker covering the part number was removed to find no part number. Do not buy these.

[3staxontheradio]

Looking for some transmission help. My car has a getrag 420g out of a euro e36 m3 in it. A few days ago I was driving and something failed leading to the centering behavior at the shifter being off and also causing it to leak gear oil from somewhere relatively far forwarded- what appears to be above the clutch slave of the drivers side. I'll be pulling the trans soon to get a better look. The shifter wants to pull all the way to the left into the reverse spot without any resistance, first and second gear are extremely hard to find, and then there is a click where the shifter will sit in a position to the right of neutral. Before I started smelling the gear oil I had assumed I just had a detent failure but as best as I can tell its leaking further forward and on the opposite side of the transmission. Anyone have a guess what has happened?


Video of shifter turret behavior now:

Pic of the leak near the clutch slave: