What Else Should I Change When I do My Clutch?

[COVID-19]

+1 my brass one looked like Kaivs after 20k miles.

[mrgizmo04]

On metal pin, IF you are going with metal, def don't do brass, do steel.

[kaiv]

Flywheel is just a waste of money, if your current clutch hasn’t been slipping.

Not necessarily. You just have to check for slop to decide whether to replace.

I would also recommend the clutch fork and throwout bearing guide.

[kaiv]

I'd get brass

Don't.
There's a reason the factory pin #21511223281 is steel

[Obioban]

Flywheel is just a waste of money, if your current clutch hasn’t been slipping. The original fly wheel is good for 2-3 clutches, so long as it hasn’t been scored.

I wouldn’t do detent springs, either— they don’t seem to go bad like on other cars.

Metal pivot pins add nhv. If that’s worth it is up to you. Personally I’d replace with new plastic— failure is pretty rare. If you do go with a metal one, I’d use the OE BMW metal one.

I’d do:
new plastic pivot pin
new OE throw out bearing
new pilot bearing
rear main seal
clutch/pressure plate
guibo
center support bearing
any exhaust nuts removed
any exhaust gasket removed

IF your trans is leaking, replace seals that are leaking. Our trans seems to be pretty leak resistant, so I’d skip replacing it if not.

[Feffman]

I remember getting confused a few months ago as I found a thread or two in the old forum proclaiming/showing that metal pins do also deform in a worse way and that the original nylon's the way to go. Never followed up to try figure out what was what, and now all those posts are gone.

When the ZF 5-speed transmission swap was done on my car, I inquired with my mechanic about installing the brass pin. He doesn't care for them as the brass can deform. We went with the Rogue Engineering stainless steel pin:

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Driveline-Shifter/Clutch-Parts/Stainless-Steel-Clutch-Pivot-Pin.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlcaUhuDi6AIVi4bACh0QRQLaEAQYAiABEgJxfvD_BwE

Feff

[mrgizmo04]

Are you talking about part number 23117512866? Damn that's an expensive part lol. Will also be getting an AutoSolutions SSK. Very excited about that.

Yes, that one. It gets quite a bit of wear from the fork sliding back and forth, so worth replacing.

[heinzboehmer]

Maybe the guibo? Otherwise it seems like you have got the list covered pretty well. You may want to consider replacing your dual mass flywheel.. I did my conversion at 151k and went ahead and did the flywheel. The new one did have a substantial amount less play.. I don’t think I would mess with the other seals unless necessary though.

Yeah I was thinking about doing the flywheel too. Did you go for the Luk one?

Outside of getting a new fork, make sure to also get the sleeve/guide that goes over the tranny input shaft, it also gets gouges.

Are you talking about part number 23117512866? Damn that's an expensive part lol. Will also be getting an AutoSolutions SSK. Very excited about that.

[mrgizmo04]

Without the bellhousing there you have a bit more access to cpv. Might be worth to replace the flywheel, even of the surface might look ok, there could be some play from dual masses. Your driveshaft will be partially out, so you can do guibo/csb, tranny mounts. Front tranny seal is not bad at all, rear is a bit more work due to the big nut. Outside of getting a new fork, make sure to also get the sleeve/guide that goes over the tranny input shaft, it also gets gouges. Do all detents with springs and guides, there should be about 7. I got a metal pivot pin, seemed to make more sense to have metal on metal with fork vs plastic. All the bushings in shifter will tighten everything up very nicely. You could also get a different shifter now. Rear main - be VERY careful with, you don't want to do it again, definitely use the plastic inner cup it comes with. Chance to replace starter if you want, slave cylinder, etc.

[HDdave]

Maybe the guibo? Otherwise it seems like you have got the list covered pretty well. You may want to consider replacing your dual mass flywheel.. I did my conversion at 151k and went ahead and did the flywheel. The new one did have a substantial amount less play.. I don’t think I would mess with the other seals unless necessary though.

[rbg]

I'd get brass

[ATB88]

Right. Planning on replacing the pivot pin and release arm as well. What's the consensus on metal pins? I'm a bit wary to use one as it won't deform and might damage other parts in situations where a plastic one wouldn't.

I remember getting confused a few months ago as I found a thread or two in the old forum proclaiming/showing that metal pins do also deform in a worse way and that the original nylon's the way to go. Never followed up to try figure out what was what, and now all those posts are gone.

[heinzboehmer]

Make sure you replace that fork pivot pin and maybe use a metal one.

Right. Planning on replacing the pivot pin and release arm as well. What's the consensus on metal pins? I'm a bit wary to use one as it won't deform and might damage other parts in situations where a plastic one wouldn't.

[rbg]

Make sure you replace that fork pivot pin and maybe use a metal one.

[heinzboehmer]

I'm getting ready change out the clutch in my car. Plan on replacing it with the Luk kit and using OE throw out and pilot bearings. Since the trans will be out of the car, I plan on replacing all detent springs, rear main seal, driveshaft centering sleeve, and shifter bushings.

I was thinking of doing the seals for the input, output, and selector shafts, but my recent experience installing a new front crankshaft seal is making me want to stay away from radial seals. My trans has no leaks and so it seems replacing these seals isn't necessary. My car has 122k on it so should I replace them anyway?

Is there anything else I should do with the trans off? Thanks!

Edit: This is the list of things I ended up ordering for myself. I left a couple of things out (some shifter bushings, exhaust gaskets, etc) because I either already had them or they were included as part of the aftermarket pieces I bought.

Item	Part Number	Quantity	Unit Price	Total Price	Vendor
Luk Clutch Kit	-	1	$269.29	$269.29	Amazon
Pressure Plate Screws	21207548052	6	$1.52	$9.12	FCP
Throw Out Bearing Guide Tube	23117512866	1	$65.78	$65.78	ECS
Throw Out Bearing	21511223582	1	$73.77	$73.77	FCP
Pilot Bearing	11211720310	1	$26.40	$26.40	FCP
Steel Pivot Pin	21511223281	1	$23.92	$23.92	FCP
Release Arm	21511223302	1	$30.72	$30.72	FCP
Locking Pin	23111222979	1	$20.05	$20.05	ECS
Locking Pin	23311224130	1	$17.06	$17.06	ECS
Ball	7119986280	1	$0.99	$0.99	ECS
Locking Pin	23317501584	1	$39.29	$39.29	ECS
Thrust Pin	23311282444	1	$27.16	$27.16	ECS
Compression Spring	23311228393	1	$7.04	$7.04	FCP
Compression Spring	23111222720	1	$8.77	$8.77	FCP
Compression Spring	23317511337	1	$9.55	$9.55	FCP
Compression Spring	23311228405	1	$9.32	$9.32	FCP
Repair Kit	23317506947	1	$186.24	$186.24	ECS
Flywheel	21212229900	1	$383.34	$383.34	FCP
Flywheel Bolts	11222243051	8	$2.39	$19.12	FCP
Rear Main Seal	11142247867	1	$122.45	$122.45	FCP
Input Shaft Seal	23121228493	1	$14.43	$14.43	FCP
Output Shaft Seal	23121222769	1	$5.32	$5.32	FCP
Shift Selector Seal	23127501582	1	$22.12	$22.12	FCP
Driveshaft Centering Sleeve	26117526611	1	$9.25	$9.25	FCP
Guibo	26112226527	1	$68.78	$68.78	FCP
Guibo Nuts	26127536563	6	$1.63	$9.78	FCP
Exhaust Gasket	11627830668	2	$14.43	$28.86	FCP
Exhaust Nut	18301317898	4	$6.35	$25.40	FCP
Exhaust Nut	11621744323	6	$3.07	$18.42	FCP
Shifter Arm Bushing	25111222015	1	$18.61	$18.61	FCP
Autosolutions AutoCross	-	1	$540.00	$540.00	AutoSolutions