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DME: Misfiring on all cylinders 1-6 without Cylinder Cutout

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    #16
    It was a bad TPS on the Throttle Actuator.

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      #17
      Glad you got this fixed. It was very annoying when it was happening to me!

      For anyone else reading, I did not have any TPS related codes, only misfires on all cylinders.

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        #18
        Originally posted by Bimmer man View Post
        Glad you got this fixed. It was very annoying when it was happening to me!

        For anyone else reading, I did not have any TPS related codes, only misfires on all cylinders.
        Thanks! Same with me, no TPS codes.

        FWIW: Earlier this year (JAN), the top TPS was throwing codes, causing the SES light to come on about every 500-700 miles. These were specific TPS codes. I replaced the TPS on the front and codes and SES went away. I used this TPS and installed it on the TA, to test, and car immediately ran better. I actually ran it at the track this weekend with the old TPS on the TA while I waited on the new one to arrive.

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          #19
          I there any consensus on any of the TPS sensors whether or not it is necessary to buy genuine? I always buy genuine but know I am throwing money away with some items.
          I will have my airbox out soon and would like to see if a new TPS set does anything for my issue.
          2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
          Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
          Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

          OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
          RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

          2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
          Instagram

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            #20
            Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
            I there any consensus on any of the TPS sensors whether or not it is necessary to buy genuine? I always buy genuine but know I am throwing money away with some items.
            I will have my airbox out soon and would like to see if a new TPS set does anything for my issue.
            I've always read that Hella is the TPS, CPS, and Oil Level Sensor manufacturer.
            3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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              #21
              I bought VNE from FCP euro. LT warranty. Cheap enough to keep one in the glove box as a spare if needed. The stock air box is so easy to pull I could do it on the side of the road if needed.

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                #22
                I always buy genuine for peace of mind. I have seen some variances even between oe and oem variants but what do I know.

                Cubie what was your issue again?
                2003.5 MT JB/B - CSL SCHRICK SUPERSPRINT EISENMANN JRZ SWIFT MILLWAY APR ENDLESS BBS/SSR DREXLER KMP SACHS RECARO AR SLON MKRS GSP DMG KARBONIUS CP AUTOSOLUTIONS KOYO

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by jet_dogg View Post
                  I always buy genuine for peace of mind. I have seen some variances even between oe and oem variants but what do I know.

                  Cubie what was your issue again?
                  When getting on or off throttle the vehicle jerks or "bucks", the lower the gear the more apparent. It feels as if driveline slack would be the culprit but as far as I understand the play in my driveline is normal. When I'm crusing at in town speeds I must come on/off gas pedal smoothly or else you feel it buck every time.

                  This is issue is most prevelant and annoying in First or Reverse gears creeping along at driveway speeds. With just the clutch let out and gas pedal not pressed it behaves as if you were jabbing the gas pedal on/off, on/off etc.
                  It doesn't happen all of the time but generally happens after I drive then let the car sit a few hours, then when I leave the driveway in Reverse the vehicle bucks unless I ride the clutch.
                  The previous owner installed a "Pedal Commander" device which piggybacks the gas pedal wiring and is basically for throttle mapping on the fly. I wonder if the "Pedal Commander" even when turned off might be having a negative effect, I'll have to rule that out.
                  2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                  Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                  Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                  OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                  RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                  2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                  Instagram

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                    #24
                    I don't know man I always thought that was an inherent m3 trait like the clunk lmao.

                    My car did that since new, except in reverse. I never depress the clutch as I'm decelerating btw.
                    2003.5 MT JB/B - CSL SCHRICK SUPERSPRINT EISENMANN JRZ SWIFT MILLWAY APR ENDLESS BBS/SSR DREXLER KMP SACHS RECARO AR SLON MKRS GSP DMG KARBONIUS CP AUTOSOLUTIONS KOYO

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                      #25
                      Can You break a tps just by remove it? ive done a itb refresh and bough tps unscrewed.
                      Im getting 3 cylinder missfire codes without cutout, swaping plugs and coils did not make a difference
                      will try to adapt the throtle pedal, if doesnt work will have to take a look on the butterflies if the are positioned 100% correct after rebuild

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by jet_dogg View Post
                        I always buy genuine for peace of mind. I have seen some variances even between oe and oem variants but what do I know.

                        Cubie what was your issue again?
                        For the most part, you really can't go wrong because genuine will take into account any updated parts and have a tighter quality control. Until I did repairs under warranty, I didn't really understand this but they do take parts back, send them back to the manufacturer and they will go through a few updates typically. Water pumps are a great example. There are multiple variations so I'd say you're on the right track. Sometimes experience is the only way to figure it out.
                        This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                        https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                        "Do it right once or do it twice"

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
                          I there any consensus on any of the TPS sensors whether or not it is necessary to buy genuine? I always buy genuine but know I am throwing money away with some items.
                          I will have my airbox out soon and would like to see if a new TPS set does anything for my issue.
                          I typically buy genuine....Over the years, I've seen a difference in some electrical, but mostly there is a difference in hoses/WP's and gaskets that I have personally experienced.

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