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Two versions of Diff?

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    #16
    Makes me want to get a V2 internals for my V1 diff LOL

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      #17
      I also think BMW switched to V2 to resolve the infamous M-Clunk complain from customers. I think some cars had the M-clunk even with low miles because the factory didn't have a way to set the preload after the LSD was assembled, as compared to V2.

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        #18
        Originally posted by sapote View Post
        I also think BMW switched to V2 to resolve the infamous M-Clunk complain from customers. I think some cars had the M-clunk even with low miles because the factory didn't have a way to set the preload after the LSD was assembled, as compared to V2.
        Yeah i believe this now especially after all the great explanations above.

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          #19
          Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

          If the viscolock units do lockup on decel then it does very little to add stability. I've found that the rear end feels extremely nervous under hard braking. Since I've switched to a ZF clutch LSD the rear end is far more stable under threshold and ABS braking.
          Interesting. We had the same issue under braking. Dialed up wing angle to mitigate and it helps a ton.


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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            #20
            My opinion Dont spend money for oem gkn diff...v1 or v2 is garbage...if its street car go with torsen and 0 issues...all the clutch diffs need clutches exept if they are new or very low miles

            Sent from my LM-G900 using Tapatalk

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              #21
              Originally posted by And1m3 View Post
              My opinion Dont spend money for oem gkn diff...v1 or v2 is garbage...if its street car go with torsen and 0 issues...all the clutch diffs need clutches exept if they are new or very low miles

              Sent from my LM-G900 using Tapatalk
              No BMW products on their website.

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                #22
                Can a V1/V2 diff be differentiated by the round vs. "Scalloped" input shaft? I have V1 diff and the input shaft is round.

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                  #23
                  V1 has both round and scalloped neck.
                  The reliable way is v1 has more plays at RH output.

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                    #24
                    V1: the left output flange has 401 number (long splined shaft)
                    V2: the left output flange has 402 (short splined shaft)
                    The cat is out of the bag

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                      #25
                      Is that only visible after disassembly?
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                        #26
                        Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
                        Is that only visible after disassembly?
                        after removing the CV joint on the output flange then the numbers are on the flange end.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by eacmen View Post

                          Interesting. We had the same issue under braking. Dialed up wing angle to mitigate and it helps a ton.
                          Yes because it adds weight and grip on rear tires so the diff won't sense any wheel slippage.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by And1m3 View Post
                            My opinion Dont spend money for oem gkn diff...v1 or v2 is garbage...if its street car go with torsen and 0 issues...all the clutch diffs need clutches exept if they are new or very low miles
                            I would never install a torsen unless that was the only choice. If you have one wheel in the air or has zero traction then you get no or very little transfer of torque to the other wheel.

                            The M variable lock is actually a really good diff for street use. I would challenge the M lock is better than a ZF clutch unit for daily driving. If you have a V2 unit with the BMW SAF-XJ+ (has additional FM) then it should also be quiet.

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                              #29
                              V2 LSD disassemble: I watched Racing Diff doing this, and the guy used a hand drill to enlarge the bore (was swaged by the factory to lock the ball) to remove the steel ball which locks the ring to the carrier. The guy butchered up the thing and it's a mess. I would use a small stone bit from the Dremel kit to clean the bore lip enough to remove the ball with a magnet.

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                                #30
                                Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

                                I would never install a torsen unless that was the only choice. If you have one wheel in the air or has zero traction then you get no or very little transfer of torque to the other wheel.

                                The M variable lock is actually a really good diff for street use. I would challenge the M lock is better than a ZF clutch unit for daily driving. If you have a V2 unit with the BMW SAF-XJ+ (has additional FM) then it should also be quiet.
                                Thats not true...wavetrac even if you brake one axle you still drive home and some other brand....
                                The oem gkn is terrible...best solution fir road is zf from older models but still if you buy one you need clutches if you're lucky and is not fucked the plates...if you dont want problems torsen for road is the best choice

                                Sent from my LM-G900 using Tapatalk

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