Diff ring gear bolts removed without using big vise?

[sapote]

You’re right that the carrier bearing hub needs a big hole to clear.
what torque did you use to tighten?

[jet_dogg]

Rather than roughly clamping the LSD unit in a vice, i welded up a specific jig for this job so the bolts can be correctly removed and torqued. I wouldn't recommend an impact gun if re-using the bolts as mentioned.

It's not going anywhere clamped down in that heuer that's for sure.

[paulclaude]

You’re right that the carrier bearing hub needs a big hole to clear.
what torque did you use to tighten?

160lb/ft with stud fastener Loctite. Built several with this spec and no issues, most of the diffs i've built have had hard use on track

It's not going anywhere clamped down in that heuer that's for sure.

For sure! It probably seems like overkill, but the time and effort spent to make up the jig to hold it makes life so much easier, especially once you've built up a few.

[sapote]

It's not going anywhere clamped down in that heuer that's for sure.

Well, today I finally have the strength needed to loosen these nasty bolts. I had the clamp holding the carrier but to prevent the round carrier slip in the big vise, I inserted two 19mm sockets into the carrier side holes (there are 4 holes for V1 diff). The factory used Loctite or whatever thread lock on the threads and I used a 5 feet long breaker bar with 3/4" drive. I don't know how people can hold the round carrier in the vise as I'm sure it sill spin if I didn't block it by adding the two 19mm sockets in the side holes. I used the brick walls to block the vise as in picture. Some of the bolts needed over 200 ft lbs to break loose (I pushed very hard on the 5 feet bar, 200 = 40 x 5).

[Shonky]

40lbs of force isn't very much. You sure about your calculation?

[bigjae46]

Large Milwaukee impact - removes all 10 in less than 5 min. Not sure why this is so hard.

If that was a pain, just wait until you have the press the flange onto the pinion.

[sapote]

40lbs of force isn't very much. You sure about your calculation?

But 200 ft-lbs isn’t small torque either; just being conservative on the calculation as I needed to reach at the socket to press it down with one hand at the end of the 5’ bar, I used the other hand and leg to turn the bar. Yes it easily 250 ft lbs if pushing the bar with 50lbs. It’s important not let the socket jumping off the bolt head.

[sapote]

For those who had opened the LSD Diff, do you know how hard to turn the splined hub of the shear pump (on the end cap next to the ring gear for V1, and the other end for v2 version)? I tried to turn it by hand but didn’t move. I will insert the output flange into the splined hub to find out how much torque to turn the pump shaft just for fun.

For this V1 diff, I counted total 15 pieces of clutch and steel discs and there is no single spring (concave) disc or washer to preload the clutch stack, so I think the pump “piston” must provides some kind of spring force for this when it’s bolted down on the carrier. Maybe I will use the press to find out if there is spring load under the pump “piston”. If no spring, then how did the factory set the preload on the clutch stack?

[digger]

But 200 ft-lbs isn’t small torque either; just being conservative on the calculation as I needed to reach at the socket to press it down with one hand at the end of the 5’ bar, I used the other hand and leg to turn the bar. Yes it easily 250 ft lbs if pushing the bar with 50lbs. It’s important not let the socket jumping off the bolt head.

200 is piddly for a 5ft breaker. You can soften the loctite with some heat if needed. Pretty sure the breaker I used was a standard 1/2” and decent vice has no worries on the body it’s like 6 to 8knches in diameter requires about 400 lb resistance at the interface which is like 1200lb clamp

[Arith2]

Large Milwaukee impact - removes all 10 in less than 5 min. Not sure why this is so hard.

If that was a pain, just wait until you have the press the flange onto the pinion.

Yup. I used an impactand it was painless. I still needed a vice but they came off. My finger got smashed when pulling the ring gear and I ended up loosing a nail. Fun times.

I used a 20 ton press and got up to about 15 tons I think.

[sapote]

My finger got smashed when pulling the ring gear and I ended up loosing a nail. Fun times.

I used a 20 ton press and got up to about 15 tons I think.

We’d like to hear more about ring gear eating finger nail story

I guess one could miss the nail head and has the hammer smashing the fingers holding the nail, or whatever rod.

I admit that I used a torch to warm up the ring gear before hammering it off. It’s an interference fit.

As about 15 tons to press the flange on the pinion shaft, are we talking about the driveshaft flange or bearing inner race?

[bigjae46]

Yup. I used an impactand it was painless. I still needed a vice but they came off. My finger got smashed when pulling the ring gear and I ended up loosing a nail. Fun times.

I used a 20 ton press and got up to about 15 tons I think.

Yeah, smashed fingers are super easy with diff building. I hate pressing the flange onto the pinion. If this was something that I was going to keep doing I’d absolutely make a mandrel.

I just use a chisel on the outer edge of the ring gear which overhangs the diff carrier. Or you can partially thread some ring gear bolts in and use a punch.

[Arith2]

We’d like to hear more about ring gear eating finger nail story

I guess one could miss the nail head and has the hammer smashing the fingers holding the nail, or whatever rod.

I admit that I used a torch to warm up the ring gear before hammering it off. It’s an interference fit.

As about 15 tons to press the flange on the pinion shaft, are we talking about the driveshaft flange or bearing inner race?

I remember it had something to do with the pinion but I don't remember exactly what it was but I think it was pressing the pinion into the case. I did that part at 1 am.

The day before is when I popped out the ring gear. I didn't have a torch on hand so no heat. A screw driver was enough to break it free easily but the inside caught about an inch down. I wiggled it on both sides and when it came loose my left ring finger slipped in one of the carrier windows and a gear tooth just smashed it. Profanity isn't my thing but a loud f bomb got dropped and I'm sure the whole dealership heard it. I thought I broke it and that significantly slowed down the rest of the job. It broke my nail in half between the layers and there was a pocket of blood inside my nail. It was weird because there was no external blood.

[sapote]

1. A screw driver was enough to break it free easily

2. I remember it had something to do with the pinion but I don't remember exactly what it was but I think it was pressing the pinion into the case. I did that part at 1 am.

3. I wiggled it on both sides and when it came loose my left ring finger slipped in one of the carrier windows and a gear tooth just smashed it. Profanity isn't my thing but a loud f bomb got dropped and I'm sure the whole dealership heard it.

1. If you want to reuse the carrier bearings, then don't just stand the carrier on its bearing cage to hammer down the ring gear, as this can deform the bearing cage. I used a thick spacer to support the inner race instead.

2. Yes, you must have pressed the pinion into the crushed sleeve and the input flange. Most of the pressing force is to crush the sleeve, not for entering the flange or the front bearing inner race.
3. What windows? I bet the round holes on V1 with the sharp teeth spiders hiding in there? I wouldn't think your finger was in the oval "window" of the V2 diff as it only met the clutch stack and not the spiders. Yes, trying to wiggle or pressing the heavy ring gear downward is dangerous process as when it suddenly is free, the massive momentum is uncontrollable and your finger can land in the spider teeth, literally.