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    ITB’s potentially stuck

    What’s up everyone. I have been working on swapping out the throttle body position sensor under the intake manifold. Car has been in limp mode and I already swapped out the easy one up top. Since I removed the intake manifold, I decided to clean the itb’s both open and closed. I was only able to clean them closed. I am not able to manually open the itbs. I watched a few videos and it seems like it moves pretty easy. The car turns on. I can’t really rev pass 2.5k-3.5k rpm, as it is limited. Could the ITB’s be dead? What should I be checking? Perhaps I am doing it wrong. Thanks in advance.

    #2
    If you can't rev past 3K, then yes, your ITB is stuck, or your TBA is jammed/dead.
    BMW / E46M Interior & Trim Restoration.
    https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/c...ch-restoration

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      #3
      Check for codes. If it is not one of the three TPS sensors (last one is the throttle pedal itself), then the throttle actuator might have a problem. The throttle bodies can be manually opened by pulling the lever that actuates them (needs a good amount of force) with the engine off.

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        #4
        Originally posted by Slideways View Post
        Check for codes. If it is not one of the three TPS sensors (last one is the throttle pedal itself), then the throttle actuator might have a problem. The throttle bodies can be manually opened by pulling the lever that actuates them (needs a good amount of force) with the engine off.
        I had the following fault codes before removing the intake manifold:

        2C - DME: Signal Thermal oil-level sensor
        6B - DME: Electric Throttle: self test
        E6 - DME: Electric throttle: setpoint/actual value deviation

        These codes came up after I had a few other codes I cleared on the Foxwell NT510.

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          #5
          Originally posted by TexaZ3 View Post
          If you can't rev past 3K, then yes, your ITB is stuck, or your TBA is jammed/dead.
          If ITB is stuck, what are the steps needed to reverse this?

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            #6
            Originally posted by trudriv3r View Post

            If ITB is stuck, what are the steps needed to reverse this?
            Disconnect TBA, see if it frees it. If yes, then its bad TBA. But your codes kinda tell the story anyway.
            BMW / E46M Interior & Trim Restoration.
            https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/c...ch-restoration

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              #7
              Originally posted by TexaZ3 View Post

              Disconnect TBA, see if it frees it. If yes, then its bad TBA. But your codes kinda tell the story anyway.
              Hopefully its telling the story for what I have already changed lol.

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                #8
                Can the car be turned on without the intake manifold? Just to make sure the ITBs are not stuck or the TBA is dead? Just asking since I have it off already.
                Last edited by trudriv3r; 06-15-2021, 04:54 PM.

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                  #9
                  Sure, just make sure that nothing falls into the engine (including dust, sand, etc.).

                  Oh and you'll get a check engine light for not having the MAF plugged in. Don't worry about it and don't plug the MAF in without everything else in place, as it will confuse your engine. You can just clear the codes once you get everything back together.
                  Last edited by heinzboehmer; 06-15-2021, 12:08 PM.
                  2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                  2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
                    Sure, just make sure that nothing falls into the engine (including dust, sand, etc.).

                    Oh and you'll get a check engine light for not having the MAF plugged in. Don't worry about it and don't plug the MAF in without everything else in place, as it will confuse your engine. You can just clear the codes once you get everything back together.
                    thank you. I will fire it up tonight.

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                      #11
                      had the wife turn the car on while I observed under the hood. She floored it and it did not pass about 3.2k rpm. Two new TPS sensors. I guess I should disconnect the TBA to see if the ITB's themselves are ruined or if its the just the ITB itself. is this the correct route?

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                        #12
                        If you turn the key to position 2, the throttle bodies will respond to pedal movement. No need to start the engine. Might help you diagnose further if you see them freaking out/moving not in relation to the pedal.
                        2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                        2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
                          If you turn the key to position 2, the throttle bodies will respond to pedal movement. No need to start the engine. Might help you diagnose further if you see them freaking out/moving not in relation to the pedal.
                          Tried that and there was definitely no movement on the TBA. Guessing the actuator is fried or the gas pedal needs to be swapped out. Purchasing a INPA setup to see which one is culprit. Any suggestions on getting the throttle bodies to move? I believe they are seized which may have burned out the actuator. Or is there no way for me to manually move it even with all my force. What areas on the whole throttle body assembly should I be focusing on to get this thing to move? I would hate to start replacing the actuator and the pedal and then it burn out because the ITBs are not moving at all. Let me know what you guys think.. Thanks in advance.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by trudriv3r View Post

                            Tried that and there was definitely no movement on the TBA. Guessing the actuator is fried or the gas pedal needs to be swapped out. Purchasing a INPA setup to see which one is culprit. Any suggestions on getting the throttle bodies to move? I believe they are seized which may have burned out the actuator. Or is there no way for me to manually move it even with all my force. What areas on the whole throttle body assembly should I be focusing on to get this thing to move? I would hate to start replacing the actuator and the pedal and then it burn out because the ITBs are not moving at all. Let me know what you guys think.. Thanks in advance.
                            The lever arm can be manually actuated with the car off. If it does not move, the actuator is bad.

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                              #15
                              I removed the linkage and attempted to move the ITBs with no luck. Where the linkage connects on the ITB, I used a rubber mallet to force and boy was that thing barely moving. I Kept repeating this till it move freely. At the same time I was adding lubricant where I thought it needed and it now moves freely by hand. I will now focus on the actuator it self and the gas pedal to see which one is the culprit. Getting my cable tomorrow so that I can use the INPA on my computer. I will keep you guys posted. Thank you so far

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