SMG Pump Rebuild DIY

[snaponbob]

Sorry for the time gap. I have should surgery coming up Tuesday, and a LOT had to be done before I became "out of commission".

The 2006 roller I bought to replace a wrecked manual 04 M3 (Damn tire wall !!) was VERY apart when I loaded on my trailer to haul from Annapolis, Md to KC, Mo. Gearbox was where the passenger set used to be, and stuff was piled up everywhere in the passenger compartment and truck. I have years and years of experience with manual 46 M3s, but never so much as SAT in an SMG car, let alone work or drive one. Thank god for Google an YouTube !!!

Anyway, as a former track car, it already had been a relocated pump car. None of it was attached to ANYTHING. Fortunately the hoses were still attached as they should be, but I still had NO clue as ANYTHING about reinstalling everything. BUT, as of a week ago, it runs and drives. An Autel MD808 was used to run the setup on the pump system and that went well. A guy I met on FB endurance races one out of Oregon and was a real asset as I moved along. And, he is supplying an flappy paddle assembly that will allow me to run my 310mm steering wheel and 3" hub extender.

So, for now, it seems to need some sort of sorting because in just putting around the neighborhood (no tags yet) I am NOT happy with how the SMG system works. Sluggish and lethargic in "normal" driving, and when switched to 6 bars it is better, but the rev matching is still clumsy. It has a genuine CSL SMG computer (decoding the VIN shows it being out of a 2002 Euro market real CSL SMG car) and I don't know what "secrets" reside in it. The DME has NOT been reflashed so I am not sure how well they are talking to each other.

The car will sleep in my shop with my 2001 slicktop Sport Touring now mechanically fully M3 converted until mid/late Feb. The shoulder will have to heal up some. This will give me plenty of time to research things. I do have a spare pump assembly that came with the car, so I may play with that in the spring.

[eacmen]

Sorry for the time gap. I have should surgery coming up Tuesday, and a LOT had to be done before I became "out of commission".

The 2006 roller I bought to replace a wrecked manual 04 M3 (Damn tire wall !!) was VERY apart when I loaded on my trailer to haul from Annapolis, Md to KC, Mo. Gearbox was where the passenger set used to be, and stuff was piled up everywhere in the passenger compartment and truck. I have years and years of experience with manual 46 M3s, but never so much as SAT in an SMG car, let alone work or drive one. Thank god for Google an YouTube !!!

Anyway, as a former track car, it already had been a relocated pump car. None of it was attached to ANYTHING. Fortunately the hoses were still attached as they should be, but I still had NO clue as ANYTHING about reinstalling everything. BUT, as of a week ago, it runs and drives. An Autel MD808 was used to run the setup on the pump system and that went well. A guy I met on FB endurance races one out of Oregon and was a real asset as I moved along. And, he is supplying an flappy paddle assembly that will allow me to run my 310mm steering wheel and 3" hub extender.

So, for now, it seems to need some sort of sorting because in just putting around the neighborhood (no tags yet) I am NOT happy with how the SMG system works. Sluggish and lethargic in "normal" driving, and when switched to 6 bars it is better, but the rev matching is still clumsy. It has a genuine CSL SMG computer (decoding the VIN shows it being out of a 2002 Euro market real CSL SMG car) and I don't know what "secrets" reside in it. The DME has NOT been reflashed so I am not sure how well they are talking to each other.

The car will sleep in my shop with my 2001 slicktop Sport Touring now mechanically fully M3 converted until mid/late Feb. The shoulder will have to heal up some. This will give me plenty of time to research things. I do have a spare pump assembly that came with the car, so I may play with that in the spring.

If the ECU doesn’t have the CSL shift parameters in it but the SMG ECU is CSL then you’re going to have bad shifts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rossurf23]

Hello. Thanks for the most comprehensive SMG rebuild guide. The best I've seen. I have an ongoing issue with my 2003 E46 M3 SMG.
To give you a little background on myself, I am a Ford and ASE Senior master tech with 38 years' experience. Have worked at BMW dealer back when the E46 M3s were new between 2002 and 2006.
Back then under warranty, we would replace complete SMG pump units if we had any issues with SMG P1717 code.
I Keep getting code P1717 for on period. When hot Drops into N
Live data shows when cold, SMG relay and pump runs 5-6 seconds and builds up to 75 bar and holds for 2 minutes 30 seconds, when pressure drops to 52 bar, the pump runs again for 5 seconds and so on.
Once hot, with oil temp at 80 C, the pump runs for 7 seconds, builds up to 75 bar, but only holds pressure for 36 to 40 seconds, and when pressure drops to 56 bar, the pump comes back on. Accumulator checks ok, dropping off pressure at 39 bar.
All this after having replaced Salmon relay, temp sensor, sending out electric motor to Eurton and having it rewound and had new bearings and brushes installed. Also, I replaced
the accumulator, and lastly replaced pump seals and pressure relief/ non return valve.
The recommended Viton o ring kit did not have the correct solenoid o rings. But after having a hard time pulling off one solenoid and inspecting the o rings, I concluded that they may be ok and not my issue. I ordered a set from eBay and will retest.

So, the last bit of work was the SMG pump seal replacement. And there has been no improvement after any of the repairs attempted.
I am thinking my issue is due to engine bay temp causing internal leakage somewhere in the pump, solenoid seal area or even in a solenoid?

Other than replacing the solenoid seals, which I will do once I get them, can you think of what I could do to further diagnose this issue?
Is the pump run time for 7 seconds, every 30 to 40 seconds when hot normal? Seems to me it that is too often?

I have been tempted to plug my original oil temp sensor to the harness and tie strap to harness to see if that will make any difference.

Anyway, any ideas on what to do will be greatly appreciated. I am determined to fix this!

[oceansize]

Hello. Thanks for the most comprehensive SMG rebuild guide. The best I've seen. I have an ongoing issue with my 2003 E46 M3 SMG.
To give you a little background on myself, I am a Ford and ASE Senior master tech with 38 years' experience. Have worked at BMW dealer back when the E46 M3s were new between 2002 and 2006.
Back then under warranty, we would replace complete SMG pump units if we had any issues with SMG P1717 code.
I Keep getting code P1717 for on period. When hot Drops into N
Live data shows when cold, SMG relay and pump runs 5-6 seconds and builds up to 75 bar and holds for 2 minutes 30 seconds, when pressure drops to 52 bar, the pump runs again for 5 seconds and so on.
Once hot, with oil temp at 80 C, the pump runs for 7 seconds, builds up to 75 bar, but only holds pressure for 36 to 40 seconds, and when pressure drops to 56 bar, the pump comes back on. Accumulator checks ok, dropping off pressure at 39 bar.
All this after having replaced Salmon relay, temp sensor, sending out electric motor to Eurton and having it rewound and had new bearings and brushes installed. Also, I replaced
the accumulator, and lastly replaced pump seals and pressure relief/ non return valve.
The recommended Viton o ring kit did not have the correct solenoid o rings. But after having a hard time pulling off one solenoid and inspecting the o rings, I concluded that they may be ok and not my issue. I ordered a set from eBay and will retest.

So, the last bit of work was the SMG pump seal replacement. And there has been no improvement after any of the repairs attempted.
I am thinking my issue is due to engine bay temp causing internal leakage somewhere in the pump, solenoid seal area or even in a solenoid?

Other than replacing the solenoid seals, which I will do once I get them, can you think of what I could do to further diagnose this issue?
Is the pump run time for 7 seconds, every 30 to 40 seconds when hot normal? Seems to me it that is too often?

I have been tempted to plug my original oil temp sensor to the harness and tie strap to harness to see if that will make any difference.

Anyway, any ideas on what to do will be greatly appreciated. I am determined to fix this!

Pump should build to 80 bar, not 75. Running for seven seconds is too long, mine has bursts of just a few seconds. Looks as though seals are bad or the accumulator but you said you tested the accumulator. Could also be your motor, while rebuilt, is not functioning properly and therefore won't build pressure fast enough which results in overheating. My system will hold pressure for four to five minutes at idle before it needs to build pressure again.

[jayjaya29]

Been battling this issue myself, I'm gonna try the Burkhart fluid but according to this thread, changing out the pump itself solved the issue:

https://www.m5board.com/threads/smg-pressure-building-issue-when-hot-2009-m5-e60-smg.614981/page-2

[snaponbob]

Hello. Thanks for the most comprehensive SMG rebuild guide. The best I've seen. I have an ongoing issue with my 2003 E46 M3 SMG.
To give you a little background on myself, I am a Ford and ASE Senior master tech with 38 years' experience. Have worked at BMW dealer back when the E46 M3s were new between 2002 and 2006.
Back then under warranty, we would replace complete SMG pump units if we had any issues with SMG P1717 code.
I Keep getting code P1717 for on period. When hot Drops into N
Live data shows when cold, SMG relay and pump runs 5-6 seconds and builds up to 75 bar and holds for 2 minutes 30 seconds, when pressure drops to 52 bar, the pump runs again for 5 seconds and so on.
Once hot, with oil temp at 80 C, the pump runs for 7 seconds, builds up to 75 bar, but only holds pressure for 36 to 40 seconds, and when pressure drops to 56 bar, the pump comes back on. Accumulator checks ok, dropping off pressure at 39 bar.
All this after having replaced Salmon relay, temp sensor, sending out electric motor to Eurton and having it rewound and had new bearings and brushes installed. Also, I replaced
the accumulator, and lastly replaced pump seals and pressure relief/ non return valve.
The recommended Viton o ring kit did not have the correct solenoid o rings. But after having a hard time pulling off one solenoid and inspecting the o rings, I concluded that they may be ok and not my issue. I ordered a set from eBay and will retest.

So, the last bit of work was the SMG pump seal replacement. And there has been no improvement after any of the repairs attempted.
I am thinking my issue is due to engine bay temp causing internal leakage somewhere in the pump, solenoid seal area or even in a solenoid?

Other than replacing the solenoid seals, which I will do once I get them, can you think of what I could do to further diagnose this issue?
Is the pump run time for 7 seconds, every 30 to 40 seconds when hot normal? Seems to me it that is too often?

I have been tempted to plug my original oil temp sensor to the harness and tie strap to harness to see if that will make any difference.

Anyway, any ideas on what to do will be greatly appreciated. I am determined to fix this!

Have you replaced the salmon relay?

Another thing ---- you really should use a BMW capable scan tool to pull BMS specific codes. Generic OBD2 codes are NOT specific enough. (Ask me how I know !!)

[rossurf23]

I did replace the Salmon relay. I mentioned that in my post. Lol.
No biggie.
I like to report that I got my SMG working correctly .
I plugged my original temperature sensor into the harness and tie strapped so that the probe end is in the air.
Noticed at extended idle, the “oil temp” is 70C.
The pump cycles on every minute and a half or so and builds up to 75 bar in 5 tp 6 seconds.
After driving the car hard in Sport mode, DSC off and Shift setting to level 6, the car shifted hard and quick on every attempt.
After driving hard for and hour and idling for an hour, the SMG kept performing flawlessly, with no Cog light or or MIL light on.
Drove again this evening, performed some launches and shifting at 8k rpm, with DSC on and off and in Sport, normal, automatic and manual modes. Again, no issues!!

Since the Smg Oil temp was climbing so high at idle and in Neutral before, and consequently running the pump every 35-40 seconds, my conclusion is that the sensor was picking up engine heat as it is very close to the block and not actually reporting smg oil temp, but rather a combination of engine and smg oil temp. The SMG module is then making the pump run often to try and cool the oil, but upon failing to drop the temp, it defaults to N and flashes cog light and Mil.

[rossurf23]

To Oceansize:

About SMG Pump Rebuild DIY
I have read other SMG Owners with good SmG systems report their systems build 72 to 75 psi in 5-7 seconds when hot. I’ve read a BMW SMG 2 training course which states that the system max pressure is 80 bar and that once it reaches that pressure, the pressure relief valve/non return valve will bleed off pressure to preserve the system from over pressure and damage. So 80 bar is not the intended normal running pressure.
You seem to have relocated your system which may cause the oil to run cooler.
I ended up installing my original temp sensor to the harness, secured it so that the probe is in the air and my system is flawless. Pump runs every minute and a half and builds to 78 bar in 5-6 seconds. Shifts great in all modes and driving styles and launches correctly.

[jayjaya29]

I did replace the Salmon relay. I mentioned that in my post. Lol.
No biggie.
I like to report that I got my SMG working correctly .
I plugged my original temperature sensor into the harness and tie strapped so that the probe end is in the air.
Noticed at extended idle, the “oil temp” is 70C.
The pump cycles on every minute and a half or so and builds up to 75 bar in 5 tp 6 seconds.
After driving the car hard in Sport mode, DSC off and Shift setting to level 6, the car shifted hard and quick on every attempt.
After driving hard for and hour and idling for an hour, the SMG kept performing flawlessly, with no Cog light or or MIL light on.
Drove again this evening, performed some launches and shifting at 8k rpm, with DSC on and off and in Sport, normal, automatic and manual modes. Again, no issues!!

Since the Smg Oil temp was climbing so high at idle and in Neutral before, and consequently running the pump every 35-40 seconds, my conclusion is that the sensor was picking up engine heat as it is very close to the block and not actually reporting smg oil temp, but rather a combination of engine and smg oil temp. The SMG module is then making the pump run often to try and cool the oil, but upon failing to drop the temp, it defaults to N and flashes cog light and Mil.

So your solution was to take the temperature sensor out of the pump block and just let it hang out in the engine bay?

[rossurf23]

The new temp sensor is in the block. The original sensor is plugged into the harness and hanging in the engine bay. It’s been working perfectly since. Keep in mind I did all the other repairs. But as I did them in stages (first the Salmon Relay and temp sensor, then pump electric motor rebuild, then accumulator, then hydraulic pump seals and pressure relief/ non return valve), I can say that none improved the system or fixed the issue. The thing that convinced me it’s heat from the engine affecting the SMG oil temp was that it would act up after extended idle, in neutral with no shifting. Eventually, it would turn on the cog light and flag code P1717.
Have driven some 200 plus miles, no cog light or shifting issues. If anything the SMG oil temp is running at a higher level than designed but I don’t see any symptoms.
I guess the “correct” solution would be to relocate this unit to “drug compartment” , or to build some kind of SMG oil cooling system with stand alone cooler, pump and lines.
I am currently working on a design.

[trigtm]

One thing this rebuild doesn't cover are two small aluminum washers that are between the inner pump housing (the gear casing) and the larger aluminum block. I had two and trying to trace exactly where they were as I wasn't expecting them when removing the gear casing. I believe they go between the gear casing and the larger alum block on the bolts that hold the gear casing down however they appear to be crush washers and had quite a bit of distortion when removed.

[sapote]

To Oceansize:

I’ve read a BMW SMG 2 training course which states that the system max pressure is 80 bar and that once it reaches that pressure, the pressure relief valve/non return valve will bleed off pressure to preserve the system from over pressure and damage. So 80 bar is not the intended normal running pressure.

80bar is over 1000 psi, so I think you meant 80 psi.

[rossurf23]

It is actually 80 Bar 1160.3 psi.
That is max pressure and yes, it uses that kind of presure to perform shifting

[eacmen]

It is actually 80 Bar 1160.3 psi.
That is max pressure and yes, it uses that kind of presure to perform shifting

Correct.

From the SMG technical concepts of operation doc:

[AvusBlueAus]

Has anyone done a rebuild with a mlr eng seal kit. I've pulled apart my unit and will reassemble it over the next few days but I can't figure out what the two circled orings are for.

I'm assuming the larger black one is for the pressure accumulator based on the size?