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Engine Rebuild Advice - To Remove The Head Or Not?

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    #31
    Originally posted by Kdubski View Post
    Do the headgasket. I had the opposite situation of you, my headgasket failed between cylinders (low compression on 4-5-6) so I took the motor out, did rod bearings, fresh gaskets, and of course head gasket.
    Already been ordered mate. The motor will have brand new gaskets/seals/etc. throughout!

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      #32
      So I've collected the block, crank, head, pistons & rods, etc. from the engine shop. No problems with machining, ACL Race rod & main bearings supplied.

      I've also received most other parts required for the rebuild. I'm still waiting on the Streamline Autosport airbox & CAT 280/272 cams.

      Unfortunately, as of today, there has been another delay; the camshafts have been pushed back to early September. So it looks as though the motor won't go back together until late September / early October.

      I'm replacing just about everything; new timing components, vanos completely overhauled by a local guy, new cooling system and all hoses (including heater box hoses etc.). Ecu flashed with oe csl software suit map sensor + a base tune suit 280/272 cams. Plenty of things I'm missing but you get the idea.

      Bought her home from temporary storage at my yiayia's weekend before last (was sitting on axle stands for ~8 months).

      There's a heap of odd-jobs to do inside and out so I've started ticking them off 1-by-1; painted the rear 6 point strut brace carbon black 416, cut the boot carpet/trim to fit around the brace and floor reinforcement. Have a pair of BMW Performance 6 piston calipers to rebuild and fit to the car (already have the caliper adapter brackets), and other bits and pieces.

      As the engine/trans is out, I started cleaning the entire engine bay to make it look as new as possible. When I originally purchased the car, it ventured through the north-west of Australia on the back of a truck and was absolutely covered in the fine red desert dust we get here. This dust gets into literally every nook & cranny; it was freaking everywhere in the engine bay. I spent an entire day meticulously cleaning the engine bay! I've also gone through each individual part removed from the front end / engine and cleaned everything of any dirt/dust/grime/oil/etc. Once everything is re-assembled, it'll be sparkling clean

      Hope to start a new thread soon detailing the rebuild as I move through each step!
      Attached Files
      Last edited by Syfon; 07-28-2020, 11:00 PM.

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        #33
        Good luck and keep us posted. Im a couple days behind you. Im Going to pick up the block today. Feel free to post any fun details you pick up on the way.

        Heres some links ive been using and reading and rereading and watching and rewatching. Every time i do i pick up another detail or two.





        High oil consumption, excessive smoke through the exhaust, high blow-by, lower than expected power output and increased oil contamination are just some of the possible results of an improper engine break-in or run-in. While production engines in new vehicles are already “broken-in” at the factory, any high-performance “built” engine requires […]

        Secrets Behind The HPF 1000 RWHP Daily Driven BMW M3 Race Engines Part Four built byMusic By: Winkzhttp://www.myspace.com/winkzmusic


        In 2010, an e46 M3, named Jezebel, undertook a massive rebuild by Goch & Cooper in Cape Town. This rebuild included forged CP pistons, HPF conrods with crowe...



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          #34
          Originally posted by F1Dryvr View Post
          Good luck and keep us posted. Im a couple days behind you. Im Going to pick up the block today. Feel free to post any fun details you pick up on the way.

          Heres some links ive been using and reading and rereading and watching and rewatching. Every time i do i pick up another detail or two.
          Of course! It's been a fun experience so far! I'll get a new thread up and running in a couple weeks chronicling my experiences throughout the entire process.

          Thanks for providing those links. I'll check them out; no doubt there's plenty of important info in there.

          Cheers

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            #35
            What's up with the liquid moly hate in here?

            Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

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              #36
              Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
              Oversized bearings are NOT for situations where you spun a bearing, machine the crank and now have a smaller journal. Oversized bearings are used to account for manufacturing tolerances.

              If you removing material...it needs to be heat treated. If you don't the rebuild won't last long. The reason a Lang Racing crank is $700 is the heat treating. Had 2 machine shops confirm this...they work on airplane motors.
              The oversized rod bearings ARE so you can regrind the crank. The over sizes is "+0.25 mm" which is ~0.010" which is not to account for manufacturing tolerances as the clearances are an order of magnitude lower. On rods the color is top vs bottom shell

              However on the mains it is different, the different colors account for the tolerances but the oversize mains +0.25 mm also have their own colors to. i.e the (0) have yellow green white and the (+0.25mm) have their own yellow green and white
              Last edited by digger; 07-30-2020, 10:08 PM.

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                #37
                Originally posted by Syfon View Post
                So last night I removed the head. No issues at all with the head gasket or anything else for that matter. Bores look perfect, as do pistons.!
                Looking at the rod bearings at 60K miles: it seems #3 rod spun was just purely bad luck as all other bearing show no copper layer. I think #3 happened to have more clearance and less oil pressure than the others.

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                  #38
                  I paid about $1800 in 2020 to rebuild my motor myself. Yanked it for a head gasket job, did rob bearings, various seals, vanos, and clutch. Did not rering the pistons. The $1800 includes about $500 of labor.

                  Did it myself at home on an engine stand. Took about 80 hours. Was my first time every disassembling a motor. Really endearing experience, brings you to a more intimate level with your car.

                  Dont regret the experience at all.

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                    #39
                    Hey mate noticed you were from W.A.

                    Just curious who you used for all the machining ?

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Originally posted by Kdubski View Post
                      I paid about $1800 in 2020 to rebuild my motor myself. Yanked it for a head gasket job, did rob bearings, various seals, vanos, and clutch. Did not rering the pistons. The $1800 includes about $500 of labor.

                      Did it myself at home on an engine stand. Took about 80 hours. Was my first time every disassembling a motor. Really endearing experience, brings you to a more intimate level with your car.

                      Dont regret the experience at all.
                      Good to know! I am debating rebuilding my old S54 with a spun bearing, then selling, or selling as is and can't make up my mind. Almost seems like rebuilding it would be more profitable, maybe. I will have to do main bearings, new exhaust hub so that is $800 right there plus at least another 800 in misc. I am sure (obviously no clutch/flywheel). Plus I think it would be fun to do and document along the way, I dunno.

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by Icecream View Post

                        Good to know! I am debating rebuilding my old S54 with a spun bearing, then selling, or selling as is and can't make up my mind. Almost seems like rebuilding it would be more profitable, maybe. I will have to do main bearings, new exhaust hub so that is $800 right there plus at least another 800 in misc. I am sure (obviously no clutch/flywheel). Plus I think it would be fun to do and document along the way, I dunno.
                        Only your brother or friends will buy your car with spun rod bearings. Strangers will think what else are wrong and cannot test the car due to spun bearings. So I think you should rebuild it first.

                        Why need new main bearings? Broken hub tabs? (Remember that father gave his 350K miles car to son with stock parts?)

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by sapote View Post

                          Only your brother or friends will buy your car with spun rod bearings. Strangers will think what else are wrong and cannot test the car due to spun bearings. So I think you should rebuild it first.

                          Why need new main bearings? Broken hub tabs? (Remember that father gave his 350K miles car to son with stock parts?)
                          It's just the engine. I already swapped another S54 into my car. New main bearings because the cost of parts is not crazy high and figured it would be a good idea while it is taken apart.
                          And yes, hub tab broken.

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by sapote View Post

                            Looking at the rod bearings at 60K miles: it seems #3 rod spun was just purely bad luck as all other bearing show no copper layer. I think #3 happened to have more clearance and less oil pressure than the others.
                            Yeah i think you're right! Oh well, the motor is back together now

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by 180SXTCY View Post
                              Hey mate noticed you were from W.A.

                              Just curious who you used for all the machining ?
                              Harris Engines in Osborne Park

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