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Subframe reinforcement, gear fluid changes, and bushing refresh

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    Subframe reinforcement, gear fluid changes, and bushing refresh

    Hi,

    Anyone have information about this post, including photos?

    DIY: E46 M3 detailed subframe reinforcement, gear fluid changes, and bushing refresh
    http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showt...=rear+sway+bar

    Or can you point me to a DYI covering bushing refresh?

    --
    HaJo

    #2
    Which bushing? Subframe?

    Comment


      #3
      Yes, subframe.

      Comment


        #4
        I had saved this DIY before the old forum cache disappeared. Here is a PDF. Pics were broken back then though - I don't know that we will ever get those unless original author has them.
        Attached Files

        Comment


          #5
          Bimmerfan08 (op for requested thread) is on here.

          I dont think he posted his pdfs yet, but he posted here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...m-diys#post325
          Youtube DIYs and more

          All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

          PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

          Comment


            #6
            Dropped my rear end this past weekend and here are the steps put in short form which I thinks help give people the scope at a glance. I know I like having a rough outline.
            1. Disconnect parking brake (inside car)
            2. Remove rear wheels
            3. Remove rear shocks
            4. Remove v-brace
            5. Remove section 2 support brackets
            6. Remove section 2
            7. Remove driveshaft (diff, csb, and at guibo)
            8. Pull parking brake cables out from underneath car.
            9. Disconnect ABS and wear sensors (passenger side) on calipers
            10. Remove calipers (retainer clip, 7mm bolts).
            11. Disconnect lower control arm via eccentric bolt at wheel
            12. Feed caliper between control arm and trailer arm and support with something (this is to avoid disconnecting brake lines)
            13. Disconnect trailer arm from frame (RTAB housing)
            14. Remove charcoal filter plastic cover.
            15. Disconnect rear light leveling sensor that is connected to upper control arm on passenger side
            16. Remove subframe cross member bolts
            17. Remove subframe bushing bolts
            18. Drop rear end.
            Last edited by oceansize; 04-26-2020, 01:16 PM.
            3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by oceansize View Post
              Dropped my rear end this past weekend and here are the steps put in short form which I thinks help give people the scope at a glance. I know I like having a rough outline.
              1. Remove rear wheels
              2. Remove rear shocks
              3. Remove v-brace
              4. Remove section 2 support brackets
              5. Remove section 2
              6. Disconnect driveshaft at diff
              7. Disconnect parking brake (inside car)
              8. Pull parking brake cables out from underneath car.
              9. Disconnect ABS and wear sensors (passenger side) on calipers
              10. Remove calipers (retainer clip, 7mm bolts).
              11. Disconnect lower control arm via eccentric bolt at wheel
              12. Feed caliper between control arm and trailer arm and support with something (this is to avoid disconnecting brake lines)
              13. Disconnect trailer arm from frame (RTAB housing)
              14. Remove charcoal filter plastic cover.
              15. Remove subframe cross member bolts
              16. Remove subframe bushing bolts
              17. Drop rear end.
              Solid.
              2002 M3 | 1986 R80 | 2001 EuroVan

              Comment


                #8
                Progress!
                Youtube DIYs and more

                All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by oceansize View Post
                  Dropped my rear end this past weekend and here are the steps put in short form which I thinks help give people the scope at a glance. I know I like having a rough outline.
                  1. Remove rear wheels
                  2. Remove rear shocks
                  3. Remove v-brace
                  4. Remove section 2 support brackets
                  5. Remove section 2
                  6. Disconnect driveshaft at diff
                  7. Disconnect parking brake (inside car)
                  8. Pull parking brake cables out from underneath car.
                  9. Disconnect ABS and wear sensors (passenger side) on calipers
                  10. Remove calipers (retainer clip, 7mm bolts).
                  11. Disconnect lower control arm via eccentric bolt at wheel
                  12. Feed caliper between control arm and trailer arm and support with something (this is to avoid disconnecting brake lines)
                  13. Disconnect trailer arm from frame (RTAB housing)
                  14. Remove charcoal filter plastic cover.
                  15. Remove subframe cross member bolts
                  16. Remove subframe bushing bolts
                  17. Drop rear end.
                  I would do step 7 first, so you're still clean while in the cabin.

                  2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
                  2012 LMB/Black 128i
                  2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
                    Progress!
                    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

                    I would do step 7 first, so you're still clean while in the cabin.
                    Good point. Re-arranged.

                    I'm excited as I've got a new 3.91 diff (diffs online), GC ARCAs, ball joints, OE diff cover, cmp subframe bushings, cmp rtabs, sway bar bushings, and end links to go in.
                    Last edited by oceansize; 04-21-2020, 07:45 AM.
                    3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I was hoping to use the same DIY when m3f went down, but this one ended up being super helpful:



                      There's a few little differences since it's non-m (diff mounting, etc), but the e brake tips and such are really useful.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I remember seeing a tip on the old m3forum (I think) on how to remove rear end links from the sway bar. I can confirm this is the way to do it. Three minutes per side and no way I could have ever pulled them off.

                        1. Use hack saw to cut old ones
                        2. Utility knife to slice the rubber.
                        3. Break the metal on the old ones.

                        Last edited by oceansize; 04-26-2020, 03:26 PM.
                        3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I just drilled a couple of holes in the bushing and then used some wd40 and a screwdriver to pry it off.

                          Putting new ones on - a lot of soap and some pushing by hand.
                          Youtube DIYs and more

                          All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                          PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
                            I just drilled a couple of holes in the bushing and then used some wd40 and a screwdriver to pry it off.

                            Putting new ones on - a lot of soap and some pushing by hand.
                            Another question Gizmo, I've pressed out the rtabs and ball joints from the trailer arm but what is the best way to press out the bushing from the upper control arm? This is the end of the upper control arm that attaches to the subframe. It is a small diameter bushing with a very thin housing.
                            3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by oceansize View Post

                              Another question Gizmo, I've pressed out the rtabs and ball joints from the trailer arm but what is the best way to press out the bushing from the upper control arm? This is the end of the upper control arm that attaches to the subframe. It is a small diameter bushing with a very thin housing.
                              You would press it out, there is an outer sleeve that will allow you to place your press tool attachment.

                              Check out the pics here to understand: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/33321092247/
                              Youtube DIYs and more

                              All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                              PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                              Comment

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